Utorch W1 Rechargeable Floodlight for $9.99

Good price for this Utorch W1 Rechargeable Floodlight, average price is $12
Anyone familiar with Utorch?

https://www.gearbest.com/led-solar-lights/pp_009558414186.html

Price history:

I ordered one. Will see…

these look nice and might get a couple but what is the battery in them ?

Thanks for the tip!

Decided to give one of these a shot, appears to take 2x18650 and have integrated charging and powerbank functions. Reviews look positive. Should be a steal for $9.99 if it works as advertised.

Gearbest’s site kind of sucked for me this morning for some reason, but the order appears to have gone through ok.

OK thanks and got two coming, better than plugging one into 110v. Should be handy if they work OK.

Got 2 of these and can warn that you need a small/short 18650 but needs to have a tip, flats will not work.
I used some Sanyo laptop pulls that had solder bumps added to them and even they are tight.
No way you will get a protected Panasonic in these or even normal button top.
Have not tested them nor have I tried the onboard charging.
But they are bright and seem like decent build for what they are.

Parasitic drain will be a question yet to be determined.
Will play with one tomorrow, I gifted the other one.

I planned to use Sanyo GA’s in mine, hope they fit well.

They used to sell at costco but branded as CAT. I bought them at clearance for like $10. Now they have this smaller version : https://www.costco.com/CAT-2-pack-LED-Worklight-with-Magnetic-Base.product.100385557.html

10bux a pop, wotdahell, why not?

Besides, it looks like bewbs.

I’m going to try and couple, can’t hurt for the price.

The description says the USB charging output is 4.5 volts. Can anyone who currently owns this product verify the actual output voltage?

hi, here is actual output voltage and a few photos more from inside.

Thanks!

The inside looks not good
Thermal path or so non existent

Low-power COB lights seem to get away with relatively little heat sinking. Boriut has a similar light, and the little aluminum backer to the COB seems to be all it needs.

you seem to be mixing things up, heatsink and just a thermal mass with no heatsink are totally different things

heatsink is designed to radiate or conduct the heat away from a device
black color—> thermal radiation
fins—>air conduction
water cooling—>conducting heat to water—>radiator usually active cooled to air with fins
ect.

thermal mass slowly heats up with very poor heat dissipation, finally a point reached where you need to reduce current
usual design for high power flashlights

this plate just acts as thermal mass with almost no heatsinking bare aluminum cant even radiate heat away good

this design cooks the LEds at likely 100°C getting away with it due to low power but LED efficiency drops quite a lot compared to proper cooled ones

Yabbut… discrete LEDs have their own substrate (likely ceramic), electrical pads on the bottom to make contact, and even with a center pad for better thermal contact, there’s still some insulation going on.

With COBs, they tend to be put on the common substrate, and I think are almost directly connected to the Al plate underneath (hence the “chip on board” moniker), all common-ground, leads connected directly to the chips, so while the plate still might not be the best as far as radiating heat away, they do make better contact with the cheapie chips themselves.

There might be a few or even dozens of different ways to make COBs, but I think (someone correct me if mistaken) that’s the allure of COB systems, a more direct, simplified way of sticking LEDs onto a base. Think of it as an XHP-From-Hell vs discrete XM-Ls.

No, it really is a heat sink. Not a very good one, but that’s the point I was making.

That aluminum heatsink isnt THAT small - looks like 1/8” to 3/16” thick….pretty hefty when you think of the sinking in a 1000lumen flashlight