The leds that I want to use is probably the Nichia 219. However, there are so many codes tints A B, 220D, asdf asdf, etc
Should I be getting neutral white for my work table light?
Any suggestions?
(I recently got a job and now have some money!!! so excited to buy led stuff!)
One suggestion, if you want to be sure you get a real high CRI in the actual tint it claims to be, don’t buy from KD.
The two neutral (4500k) nichias are 219A H1 sw45 and the new 219B R85 sw45. Cutter has 219B R85 that tested 5000k, highest color temp available in 92 typ CRI. For tints warmer then 4500k cree has high cri, you don’t need nichia.
Wow, thanks for the warning about KD. I was really close to getting them from there!
If I want to power 3 or maybe 4 of these, how should I do them? I can use an ac adapter to get to 12V. I also have mini adjustable voltage regulators that I could use. Would I set the regulator to something like 10V if i wanted to run 3 in series? not sure how the voltages are divided since the Vf changes
You really need a constant current driver. Keeps the current were you want it and safe for your leds. Vf varies with both current & temperature.
I have one like this I picked up for nothing ... ( Minus the magnet )
it's actually a great little light
Nice little online switch and a great tint
Hello!
I advise you to use plain hot!
is much more relaxing!
also depends on the use of the desk, I would choose anyway
from 3000K - 4000K
A good product is this:
Philips Lumiled (COB) Lhc1-4090-1208
Min CRI: 90
CRI Typ: 97 ;)
Datasheet:
that looks like a really nice Led! Where do I get this COB? All I get from google are data sheets ):
When it’s a work light, it’s nice to have it somewhat neutral, like the NIchia as sold by Intl. Outdoor and RMM.
Yeah… the KD ones I got are not high CRI and rather cool white…
Btw, is there a difference between Nichia 219A and B? the only place selling B’s cost 7$ each which is pretty high ):
The 219A’s are cheaper and more places sell them
"1":http://www.futurelightingsolutions.com/en/Technologies/Semiconductors/Lighting-Solutions/High-Power-LED-Emitters/White/Pages/7036401-LHC1-4090-1208.aspx?ManufacturerName=PHILIPS-LUMILEDS&isFLS=true&IM=0
"Digi-Key": http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/LHC1-4090-1208/LHC1-4090-1208-ND/4488991
"Mouser": http://it.mouser.com/new/Philips-Lumileds/PhilipsLumileds-te-cob-solutions/
Luminus XNova: "Mouser": http://it.mouser.com/new/optoelectronics/luminus-xnova-cob-leds/n-5g5vZ2pwa6e
The Nichia B is just the rev ie next gen from A so brighter
Nothing wrong with the COB approach just bear in mind a lot of COB's require 35+volts to run vs 3.0+ for Nichia
Cree also make some 95CRI Cob in the 9V space, so would research drivers before you settle on the leds
Why not buy the older nichia 119a from fasttech..?
Much cheaper.
I would like to buy some, but do you sell them by itself or on a mpcb. what color/tint are they the bad batch ones from KD?
I’m considering a similar project. I don’t know much electrical engineering though, so I’m still working out some pretty basic stuff. The LEDs and drivers I’m familiar with are all relatively low voltage (~4V) and high amperage (3A or more) though, and it’s hard to find suitable power bricks for that. So, someone pointed me at this to convert extra voltage into the amperage I might need:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181288688186
For now, I’m thinking of maybe doing two ~3500K or ~4000K high-CRI XM-L2 emitters at 3A each, with a nanjg or qlite driver to change the brightness via wall switch. All hidden behind furniture for ambient lighting. Or maybe one or two MT-G2 emitters instead, for higher output and cleaner tint. I’m not sure. Later on, I’d like to do either a neutral high-CRI lamp for use while painting, or perhaps a wide-spectrum lamp with multiple tints. And it’d be really nice if I could make some chain-able “puck” style lights out of old heat sinks, each with either a single high-CRI emitter or a wide-spectrum triple XP-G2 star. Again, output level selectable by flipping the wall switch off/on as if I were half-pressing a reverse clicky button.
It might be helpful for me to learn how voltage works in series, and how to handle the changing Vf as temperature and other factors change. This sort of thing is still a big mystery to me.
On BLF there are so many experts in electronics;)
the best thing is an efficient DRIVER with PWM control
high frequency,
You can also use a N555, for a simple project.
Forgot about that..
That would be 5 nichia 119s for the price of 1 219b
is nichia 119 above 90CRI? what other options are there?