[quote=locusto03]
Thank you, I was going to look that up just now. By now I’ve probably over tightened it, lol.
Replaced the thick washer with a much thinner one. Nice and firm switch now.
No problem! I turned it the wrong way myself before recalling reading something about a reverse-threaded retaining ring. Luckily, I didn't put too much force into it initially. I wasn't able to find a washer thin enough at the store, so I ended up cutting a couple pieces of plastic from a clamshell package and putting it between the rubber boot and switch. It's much better now.
how on earth is anyone supposed to ever know about reverse threading on an item? Crazy stupid.
Got both mine great light, great edc. Thanks Simon
Received mine and couldn’t be happier. THANKS for a great deal on a great light, Simon.
This is a limited experience with this light as *4 and *8. Frankly I could barely tell the difference in LIGHT output under most real world experience ways I tested it. I could tell the *8 got hotter and used up battery faster. I got them mixed up and had to look at the driver to count chips to even figure out which was which. I started this thread because I didn’t get an answer out of the current thread. IMO *8 is wasted on a light of this type.
Thank you for you enlightened advice. I read your other post and it confirms what I was thinking.
I need a flashlight for everyday use, I don’t need the brightest one… So 1.4A will be good I think.
I ordered a few days ago a Convoy S2+ with 4*7135 and an XM-L2 U2 1A.
I think I won’t like “cool” white. But I thought I could try it as I never had any “cool” white LED until that one.
Has enyone replaced the switch with a forward clicky?
I like the lights, but two things are getting on my nerves - reverse clicky and on mode memory… If there’s a switch that fits (bonus points for retaining tailstand ability) I will probably get it and try to reflash the firmware.
I had an extra driver on hand that was flashed with NLITE firmware, so I swapped drivers on my S2+. I don’t mind the reverse clicky, as it makes it easier for me to toggle through modes.
Xelario: +1
I just got my S2+. It seems to me that the driver is designed for a forward clicky and they use it with a reverse clicky switch. 
This is really annoying… Is it possible to reprogram that ATMEL µcontroller easily? Or maybe that I will just replace that driver but it is really annoying.
An other problem I have is that the light emits a really loud buzzing noise, especially on 40% mode. Am I the only one having this issue? Is there a way to reduce that buzzing noise?
You need to tighten everything especially the pill to reduce the buzzing. On mine even the longer cell will reduce the noise. I also installed 60 degree TIR and that noise is not there anymore. The modes are just fine on both of my S2+. You need to wait about 3 seconds for the driver to remember the mode and half click will change the mode only before that 3 seconds. If you want to change the mode after 3 seconds you will have to click twice.
Thanks for the tips, I’ll try to tighten everything.
About the modes, you described exactly what I’m experiencing. Having to half click twice to change one mode… That’s stupid. My ideal is to have a driver that changes mode on the first half click and will memorize the mode after 3s OFF (instead of having to wait 3s ON for it to remember). It’s stupid, if you turn the light ON and turn it OFF before 3s, the next time you turn the light ON, even if it’s 2 weeks later, it’ll go to the next mode…
Springs vibrate due to low PWM frequency. You can bridge the springs, so that current will flow thru bridge mostly avoiding spring.
Some people use soldering wick for that (http://www.swiatelka.pl/upload_img/obrazki/IMG_4e6a476c4899a13.jpg) but speaker cable is better (the one inside a speaker, between connector and speaker coil) as it is designed to be mechanically resistant (http://www.swiatelka.pl/upload_img/obrazki/IMG_536406312b81d6985.jpg solder wick on left, speaker wire on right)
I just did that and now the noise is greatly reduced. Before adding the wire I could here the buzzing at any time, now I need to put my hear close to the flashlight to hear it. I used 24AWG silicon wire because I had it lying around and it’s easy to solder. The result would have been better with heavier gauge wire or coper braid for sure.
Thanks a lot arekm! Now I just need to fix the driver and it’ll be perfect. 
anyone else having issues with their light? Mine won’t run on a protected cell, and even has bouts of flickering on an unprotected cell. I have screwed in the switch tailcap as far as it will go. On mine the tailcap threads were reversed just FYI.
I also noticed some flickering when using an unprotected cell. Not much, but enough to change modes sometimes. It clearly is caused by the springs not pushing hard enough on the cell. I found that cleaning the springs with a tissue and not touching those springs with your fingers helps a bit.
I just noticed that Simon’s store is now empty. I sent him a private message 3 days ago in BLF and he did not answer…
I’m wondering what has happened to him too. He’s a great seller in my experience and always online to chat with him via Aliexpress.
Yep, and he invested a lot in his reputation, so it’s not a smart move to shut everything down now… I’m sure he has his reasons.
How is that 60 degree TIR….open and floody compared to a 10mm TIR?