After all that high tech something completely different: Neolithic elbow grease.
Last year I won one of Mike C’s drivers in a GAW, and it came in a Warsun CT9T.
It had quite some mass in the tube, with room for improvement (enlargement).
So I took an adjustable hand reamer and started reaming (is that a correct word?)
My first aim was to accomodate a 20700, but that was corrected to a 21-70 (AKA 21700)
So this is what you get when you widen the bore from 19.9mm to 21.4mm
Hindsight is always 20/20.
Obviously I missed that the diameter of the threads of the tailcap was smaller than those at the head
But it turned out OK. A narrow escape in more than one way. Must remember not to knock down walls with it.
For now I’m using the light with a 30Q + sleeve. Must start looking for a real 21-70 (Elon?)
Nice Henk. Its amazing how thin you can get the wall thickness and not have it snap in two. Like you said its not for knocking down walls now.
I have just turned a Supwildfire head from a one piece to a two piece. Missed by a bees dick. I have spares for this light now. :person_facepalming:
Theres some more fantastic mods going on here guys. makes for some real interesting reading.
Have you detailed this mod anywhere? I'm sure a lot of S42 owners would love to do this.
...on that note, can anyone tell me what the value of the resistor & capacitors that I managed to smash whilst getting the S42 driver out are? I'm thinking the resistor is 103, going by the remains, & the others on the board.
That looks nice CRX, you can drop it off over at my friends in Moffat and they’ll send it on over with Christmas gifts in a couple of months. Thanks man!
I swapped my S30R javelot emitter for an Oslon square 3000K 96 CRI.
My first time trying these LEDs, and I have to say that I’m impressed.
Nice warm tint, no rose or green shift, however the reflow is not straight forward as the footprint is a 2*2mm and you have to center it on the XP print.
Inspired by having seen this today, I decided to give my jaxman m8 a kind of retro/old look by baking it and weathering.
This is how it looked right after baking, I like how the bezel is slightly darker than the rest.
This is after shaking it together with some rocks for a few minutes. Seeing as it wasn’t getting worn fast enough, I added some smashed glass to the mix and worked it some more, and this is the final result:
I’m very happy with this, it reminds me of a worn miner light or something like that, the 4000k xp-l hi fits the older aesthetic too
Wow, I’m flattered! :+1:
I’m usually pretty easy on my stuff, so some forced weathering was fun on my Convoy.
Your M8 looks nice! I like the burgundy color and the wear on the high spots.
FYI, loaning lights to (supervised) toddlers tends to make for some nice dings. They add character!
I need some advice. I’ve mostly moved on to a different hobby (at least temporarily) but there is one project I still want to complete. It’s the project that frustrated me enough to leave this hobby in the first place.
I have a TM16GT that I was converting to XHP35’s. I’ve done all of the battery carrier work and had a working driver, but accidentally killed two of the LEDs. They are on 20mm Noctigons and glued to the shelf with arctic ceramiquealumina.
I need to either unsolder the two dead emitters and solder on the replacements from above (which would be nice to not have to re-center my MCPCB’s) but I think that would be almost impossible with the big host sucking the heat away from the thermal pad of the emitter.
Option two is to detach it and then sand down the remaining glue off the shelf. I don’t know how to get the glue to detach without damaging the host. It’s down inside the head so I have to work on it almost vertically.
After I get them off I might forget the XHP35’s and just switch to the new SST emitters.
Sorry I don’t have any tricks for unsticking glue. How tough is the glue? Maybe use a combination of heat and force. Get the whole head hot then use a prying tool to force the MCPCB. Will probably scratch something in the process though.
I agree I think it would be hard to get to soldering temp attached to the head.
Just curious, did you kill the XHP35 with over current or something else?