What did you mod today?

Chatika, I LIKE it! :slight_smile: Nicely done, and a nice light to choose as a host for that project! I took forever getting one and now have almost forgotten it…

Warmed up one of my Wuben T046R lights with a triple emitter XP-L Hi U4 3000K 80+ CRI board from Mountain Electronics.

Not sure about TS-80, but it’s predecessor is 60W.

I wasn’t sure either, that’s why I googled it before posting. Everything I founds said 9v, 2a.

Yesterday I put Luminus SST-20 J4 FB4 (4000K) in Reylight Pineapple.

Reflowed onto a bit crushed stock MPCPB:

The pill:

Stock 219C emitter was way above BBL in mine sample. This one (FB4) is as well, but not as much as the stock one. Quality of light is much better, very “soft” to eyes. Because of PWM design of the driver, tint shift with increasing drive current is not visible.

Also I upgraded the driver (back in August :person_facepalming: ). Here is the picture of 2 drivers, both are stock, one is from older version (old clip design and no LVP).

SST-20 J4 FB4 in Enogear TC8.

Put a reverse flush clicky in my Armytek Partner C1. Light now tail stands, Wizard clip for deep carry, grip tape for cold wet hands. Next step is a tail magnet.

Built my big boy… 25,426.5 lumens at start, 22,700 at 30 seconds.

very nice! what emitters did you settle on? also, I assume your negative is a solid CU plate?

You know the best thing about this mod?

It’s not even finished yet :slight_smile:

With 8 cells, you are going to push the emitters even harder.

He is perhaps going to get 30 000, or even slightly more with more cells :slight_smile:

The tail end of the Q8 has a thick copper plate with dual Blue springs soldered on. No bypasses.
I have Noctigon Quad boards and a Maxtoch 25mm center board.
4 Samsung LH351D W6 5000K
4 Samsung LH351D U6 5000k 80 CRI
4 XP-L V3 HI, 2 ea of 1A and 3A
4 XP-L V6 HD, 2 ea of 1D and 3D
1 SST-40 dedomed and sealed from Richard

The HI’s and HD’s are on shared boards with the domeless emitters on the inside, tint’s oppose each other for mixing. The whiter W6 emitters are on the inside with the slightly warm higher CRI emitters on the outside. Tedious to layout and implement, managed to get one Samsung reversed and short a board and got one Samsung emitter poorly re-flowed, nada zilch sip solder on the positive contact. AND, something happened to the 7135 on the main driver and had the SST-40 on full time, that one required a complete disassembly, even removed the Slaves to get at the Master to swap in a new chip. Went ahead and removed the dual 12 ga copper ground posts and used a quarter inch copper rod instead.

Final tint is surprisingly just white, I haven’t noticed a tint or hue yet, of course it isn’t dark yet either.

Maybe now I can sleep without this crazy light build haunting my precious few brain cells! Lol

Blue, I’ll ultimately be able to run 16 cells and have run time too!


At a conversvative 100lm/W(it is probably lower in real life), that means your light is consuming 250W+ at startup.

It is probably consuming more power, but you are pulling about 18A/cell.
That is a real monster.

And what do you mean brain cells?

If you only have a few of them, I can just say that yours are probably massive from all of the knowledge you built up over the years.

When I was trying to estimate what all these emitters would output I was figuring they’d pull some 86A to get around 25,000 lumens. At a guesstimated 3.4V on the average, maybe a bit higher, yeah, it’s a lot of power. A scary lot of power! I was going to add in 4 Nichia 219C’s but the 106A resulting draw was probably going to be too much and in the end I left them out.

My wife and daughter bought me a T-Shirt on one of my birthdays, years ago, that reads “I Do Know It All, I Just Can’t Remember It All At The Same Time” And while knowing it all is a large stretch, the part about what I can remember of what I should know is spot on!

I don’t know what I’m doing. I get lucky a lot. :wink:

Edit: When I built my Meteor M43 with 3 slaves to the one master, I got an actual at-emitter current draw reading of 58.8Amps from the 4 cells. That one has 12 Samsungs. So yeah, this one is seriously gobbling up some current!

I put off getting a smart phone for a long time, but now I have a pretty new Apple i8, the camera is decent and I have an app to let me fully control it. That said, I thought I could step outside and get a quick beamshot without grabbing a coat and going the full camera tripod route. Maybe I was wrong. My phone doesn’t quite know what to make of this…

The white barn with the Flag flying at 610 yds distant is visible in the background, if you can get through the foreground. :stuck_out_tongue:

I mean I see room for 4x 10mm “mule” boards for 180 degree flood but I guess you did pretty good.

I actually bought Carclo 10mm Optics to go with the Nichia’s I had but I needed the space for the wiring. I probably could have wired it differently, but still, didn’t want to piggyback them onto one of the existing 5 drivers and there wasn’t room for a 5th slave…

@Dale, great light canon. More pic once you get that iPhone figured out :zipper_mouth_face:

My mod went the other way towards a tiny light.

I liked my new Olight i3T well enough to dedicate one of my last remaining Nichia 219BT SW45K R9080’s (but I apparently didn’t like it enough to leave it alone cool tinted; yes, I’m a tint snob :wink: )

Here’s a peak at the inside, that’s a Philips LUXEON TX CW -

I replaced -

  • the Philips LED board with a copper MCPCB for the Nichia, and
  • the plastic lens (which got destroyed in the mod process) with a glass lens.

Now that’s it’s done, this simple 2-mode light has managed to ‘warm’ it’s way into my heart (beautiful neutral white) and into my pocket as an EDC!

Excellent! Olights are typically well made but also typically lacking in the emitter dept. Nice upgrade!

What size is the mcpcb? Was breaking the plastic lens unavoidable?