What did you mod today?

That is so freakin awesome CRX!

Black is standby colour which turns clear with heat to then reveal the orange glow tape underneath, but since it is orange glow tape, it turns yellow/ green when exposed to light too, then fades back to orange or covered back in black if the light cools down :wink:

How about doing it with red trits instead of tape?

Yeah thought about it but seems a bit of a waste of tritium as will only be revealed when the light is hot, I use trits for finding the thing to turn on in the first place :smiley:

I just wanted a part of the light to turn red/ orange when it heated up and the PK Paladin seemed like a good candidate with the grooves near the front and a triple XP-G2 /FET driver setup.
Just a bit of experimenting.

Working on the big mod, what I’m calling the Q8 .441 MAG. :slight_smile:

Got the driver built yesterday, tested it this morning and had to do some tweaking on a couple of the slave’s 7135 channel but now it works fine, have Anduril on the original driver from the Q8 with the MOSFET and 7135 chips changed to match my slave boards. 4 Slave boards to run 4 quads with Samsung emitters, original driver running a de-domed SST-40 in the center with a 22mm reflector over it. Hence, 4 Quads and 1 reflector (441) at Magnum power (or Most Audacious Guffaw as a stab at “Giggles”) Also having a bit of fun with the naming as taken from the .454 Casull, using the 3 digit clarification just to kinda show it’s a serious monster. lol

I’ll run one each 14 ga wire up to share with 2 Quad boards, have 4 teflon covered 18 ga leads from the slaves to run these quads. Then 2 22ga leads from the original driver to the SST-40. All running the same MCU with Anduril. Looking for 20,000 to 25,000 lumens but don’t know if the 4 cells can deliver it. Will be trying the new carriers from Sofirn to see if 8 cells or even 12 cells will be able to deliver the amperage. :wink:

Waiting on the Noctigon D4S quads and Angie optics, supposed to be here by Tuesday… Center pad is inset with a 25mm MaxToch MCPCB and the wire holes are drilled, need to place the 4 quad boards to see where to drill the holes. Also have a 95mm UCLp lens due here Saturday. :smiley:

I should probably get on the IMR site and order up a batch of cells to go with it. lol So, Anyone have any ideas about what cell can run 22A each in a 4P configuration? Yeah, gonna need about 86 Amps…

Looks mean :smiling_imp:

Samsung 20S would be your best bet. Absolute monster.

For a 4P setup, you need to go all out.

Since you are very skilled, put dual BeCu springs in the Q8 and bypass that array for absolute maximum conductivity :slight_smile:

You want as low of a resistance as possible, and a bypassed dual BeCu spring array will do the job :smiley:

Are the 20S better than the 25S?

Already have the large springs on the board with 22 ga (20ga? forget) bypasses. :wink:

Edit: Forgot what I’d done on the bottom end, I simply pulled the tube and tail assembly from my XP-L2 build and put the large spring with bypass on the XP-L2 build. So the new one will have dual springs on a copper plate. :wink:

Yes, it is the best 18650 cell in terms of power output:

The Samsung 25S actually bests the Sony VTC5A by a wee bit, and at 2500mAh it would have quite the leg up on a 20S. 4 in parallel would mean the 20S would need a whole 5th cell to keep up.

Edit: According the HKJ, the Samsung 25S at 25 and 30 Amps really hammers the Sony VTC5A, which I thought was the best cell out there in the 18650 class. Appears I was wrong. So, I will need to get some Samsung 25S ordered. (more of them I should say.)

Nice mods guys. This forum almost needs a name change that includes black magic. :beer:

Small Mod. I bought a cheap charger on Aliepress. I found that it is suitable for long batteries 21700. Including super long with protection to Rofis MR30 and Wuben A21. I removed the electronics, added the furniture angles as contacts. He slightly trimmed the charger’s contact. Now I have the perfect reduction on the 21700 batteries in my OPUS charger.

Nice mod. I’ll be copying it myself soon enough :slight_smile:

Modded my copper Convoy S2+. Actually, re-lego-ed it.

What stayed: all copper parts with O-rings, The XP-L emitter, the lens and the opaque tailcap rubber.
What came in: long smooth reflector and short pill from a Convoy S2, X6/X5 driver and lighted tailswitch,
and a nylon M8 washer I got from a local DIY-store.

I got: a reasonably throwy almost neutral white tube light with a nice hotspot (a bit greenish in the very centre).
And while I suspect my LX1010B luxmeter consistently shows values that are too low, the output = 19 kCd.

Sounds very nice Henk! The shallow reflector of the S2+ has never been my preference.

A quick and dirty mod tonight. I blued my AT40. Unfortunately I held the torch over the tail for extra long (that was where I started) and the colour went from blue back to pale. I let it cool and tried again but it just didn’t turn out. It’s blue inside the tail. Maybe if I sanded it back and tried again it might work…???

I am just modded by you folks :open_mouth:
Great great mods, all different, all cool ! Great work, mates :face_with_monocle:

Finished up the red utorch s1 mini for my wife.

Beam profile was exactly what I hoped for (why I used the SSL-80 version of Olson) but had pretty bad artifacts / rings on the wall so a layer of DC-fix on the inside of the lens fixed that right up

What happened to the heart positive contact ? :open_mouth:

I thought I would be able to cut / file some 3mm thick Cu sheet (to replace the stock button) but that didn’t happen :frowning:

I wasn’t able to shape the thick Cu sheet well enough by hand (diamond files and shears) so then I thought I’d just make 3 1mm hearts cause I can shape the thinner stuff well but I couldn’t stack 3 tiny 1mm thick hearts and get them to solder together and solder to the PCB clean enough to feel good about it…

Instead I just reused the factory 3mm x 5mm round button and gave her one of the blank PCB’s. The pad is a heart, just the button didn’t happen.

I tried a solder blob first, you can pile on about 1-1.5mm of solder and have it retain the perfect heart shape but it wasn’t enough height to work :frowning: