My DBC-05 now sports a Tofty, gained ~400 lumens on a 30T such that the CFT-90 now makes 5010 lumens on my calibrated light box. 
Edit: it finally dawned on me that with a near 26A draw I was asking a lot from a mini Omten.
I usually use a jumper wire in place of the Tail Cap while on the Lumen Tube —- That will tell you how your switch,spring , Bi pass is holding up— I started doing this after I’d measure ridiculous amps with my clamp meter and the Lumen readings were a Let Down
Tells you how dirty your switch pcb or the inside of the tailcap is more than anything…
First Impressions
V11r modded to E21a 3500k, repacked control ring w Nyogel 767a
blue locktite:
XM-L2 star about to be unsoldered:
E21a, freehand centered (from Clemence, his reflow, his mcpcb):
beams:
I like the 3500k E21a better, because it is more pink, than the 3500k 219b
I like the N219b 3000k better, because it is more orange, than the two 3500k
Initial V11r lumens on 16340 w XM-L2 was 0.01 low and 420 lumens max (spec is 1 lumen low, and 570 lumens max w 16340)
after the swap to E21a, 0.02 low, and 255 lumens maximum, that is a 40% drop
The control ring arrived very loose due to old grease. The Nyogel made it noticeably resistant to turning but can still be done with one finger.
Im waiting for a replacement reflector, atm the stock reflector produces rings in the spill w the E21a, plus there is a cross in the center of the beam when closer than 3” from the target. otoh, when shining on a wall 25 feet away, I like the tight hotspot w the E21a.
the V11r arrived with a metal switch cover that made noise and felt wrong. Installed the rubber switch cap, which I like better. The clip was not to my liking… took it off…
E21a 3500k, YES!
I would do it again…
all opinions subject to change… lol
relative tint, iphone auto white balance
the 3500k is “whiter” than incandescent… makes for a nice evening light…
the V11r reflector makes a tighter hotspot than my RRT-01’s that are flanking it.
Im really conflicted about the tailswitch on the V11r, but it has its strong points
momentary
memory
Finally I used my last stashed 219c 4070e. I put them in ReyLight Ti Dawn 2.1. MCPCB was glued to the pill.
Uploaded firmware with customized modes:
PROGMEM const uint8_t modegroups[] = {
/* 0 */ ONE7135, 0,
/* 1 */ ONE7135, ALL7135s, 0,
/* 2 */ 10, ONE7135, ALL7135s, 0,
/* 3 */ 8, 14, ONE7135, ALL7135s, 0,
/* 4 */ 10, ONE7135, 28, ALL7135s, 0,
/* 5 */ 8, 14, ONE7135, 28, ALL7135s, 0,
/* 6 */ ONE7135, 28, 0,
/* 7 */ 10, ONE7135, 28, 0,
/* 8 */ 10, ONE7135, 26, 0,
/* 9 */ 14, 28, 0,
/* 10 */ 8, 14, ONE7135, 28, 0,
/* 11 */ ALL7135s, 0,
/* 12 */ ONE7135, TURBO, 0,
/* 13 */ 10, ONE7135, TURBO, 0,
/* 14 */ 10, ONE7135, ALL7135s, TURBO, 0,
/* 15 */ 8, 14, ONE7135, ALL7135s, TURBO, 0,
/* 16 */ 10, ONE7135, 28, ALL7135s, TURBO, 0,
/* 17 */ 8, 14, ONE7135, 28, ALL7135s, TURBO, 0,
/* 18 */ 10, ONE7135, ALL7135s, TURBO, 0, // DEFAULT
/* 19 */ BIKING_STROBE, BATTCHECK, ONE7135, 28, ALL7135s, 0,
/* 20 */ 6, 16, 26, 0 // muggle mode
};
Put a Luxeon V2 5000K in the Skilhunt M150. Details here: “REVIEW”: Skilhunt M150 – 1 x 14500 / AA – 750 Lumens – Double UI – Magnetic Charging [PIC HEAVY] (Beamshots added = Post#21)
Summary:
(Comparisons with Luxeon V 4000K (under a TIR, on the right))
Congratulations on your mod Jon! You are getting better at it by the day! 
I like the incandescent the most in your tint comparison. The E21A 3500K actually looks kind of green but it could be the camera playing tricks.
Was it hard to remove the mcpcb? I was thinking of buying one but didn’t because of the glue. Did you reglue it after the swap?
It was pretty easy. You need only soldering iron. Apply a bit of solder to the side of MCPCB to improve heat transfer and just wait. After couple of minutes you will be able to separate MCPCB from the pill with tweezers. Side effect: leds will unsolder themselves as well. Then clean everything with isopropyl alcohol. I used MX4 thermal paste, didn’t glue anything.
Replaced the DIY 2 LED aux board in my E01 with a Lexel board with 4 LED’s. I’ll probably swap them out to a single color to match how the 4 LED’s of the switch are a single color, still gotta decide what color though. I’m thinking red or amber.
The beam pattern with the E01’s big TIR is pretty cool looking!
Way better tint.
Did you reflow the Luxeon yourself? Since the M150 has the rectangular shaped DTP.
I would like to change it as well, but haven’t ever reflowed a LED before.
I received the M150 as well, the tint is very unpleasant, the typical XPL2 corona 
Also, i could not get the claimed 750 Lm on T1, i measured about 400. Skilhunt advised me to clean all contacs and try again on a fresh charged cell, but exactly the same results.
Hi Yokiamy! Yes, much much better tint! This LED in 5000K is quite pleasant, I never tried it before! It has - in comparison with other NW LEDs - a rosy tint and some yellow, but its much better than the CW!!
Yup, I unsoldered the M150 PCB and took it out with the help of some pointy tweezers.
After taking the Luxeon V2 out of a 16mm Led4Power MCPCB, I put it over the Skilhunt PCB and applied some heat under it with the soldering iron. I only have that heat tool, so I had to use it the best I could Well, I have an electric stove, but that would be overkill, I only use it to solder pills to triple spacers 
About the max lumens, I am carrying it today (for the first EDC trial 
) and it doesn’t have the battery fully charged, it may be around 3.7V. However, I compared it with the Acebeam TK16 in the lower turbo version (~750 lumens) and indeed the M150 is lower! When fully charged it behaves better, but like you said, it probably won’t reach 700 lumens. :zipper_mouth_face:
I made some night beamshots here, and I guess it can confirm that it is not as bright as the other lights I compared it with, on T1 / Turbo.
I am carrying it in the “coin pocket” along with a knife and Vicks inhaler. I had to turn the switch to the opposite side of the other stuff as it was getting activated easily. Turning it to the “empty” side, head down, is preventing “pocket activation”!
I’ve got a Luxeon V2 and several Vs in 4000K and love them. I’m going to put some in 5000K in my C8F, and this post makes me even more excited.
As for your heating apparatus, I’m planning to get something like this soon, once I’m setting up a workshop in my house.
I copied Bob McBob and got the smaller one, for smaller money:
pic is a link:
Nice find jon! Tempted to get one now…
Tonight another aux LED mod with boards I ordered from lexel. This one in my SP33 (with 8+1+FET CK driver running anduril) with ice blue led’s.
It was actually one of my easiest aux LED installs to date, the board required almost no modification (replaced the pots with 1.7kohm resistors for clearance to the reflector) and I used one of the anti-rotation screw holes instead of having to drill anywhere!
Made a quick kapton isolator but the pic was rotated and it’s late…
If you look perfectly head on you see 4 reflections but if you look from a slight angle you see 8 (bonus surprise in this pic, my new 100cri work lamp providing ultra low ambient lighting)
On high they’re bright! Moonlight bright.
I suppose those aux leds actually produce a (crappy) beam!
Havent worked out how to drive a cft-90 yet so thought i would mod my 145mm aspheric to use k75 as light engine. microwave dish sized spot on a mobile phone tower at just under 1km away.
Edit: i did some measurements and got 5.2km throw but there is no way it could be that
Under 12” it’s a solid beam (and looks cool as hell), over that distance and the donut hole is ever expanding.
Its sort of a proof of concept / test bed for a ZY-T08 mod I’m working on with XP-L HI and 4 red XB-D’S.
I’m confused grin, you say 145mm aspheric but the photo shows the lens not much larger than your K75, am I missing something or forgetting how big the K75 is?
Fun stuff isn’t it?