The âcoloredâ S2+es (red, green, purple, etc.) have the metal switches (and come in the nicer âpresentation boxâ), and plain olâ boring grays and blacks have the rubber switches (and come in the infamous Crappy Thin White Cardboard box).
Tailcaps are not interchangeable, unless you wanna mixânâmatch colors, eg, black tail with rubber boot on a violet head+tube. The switch-holes are different sizes, etc.
If you wanna be almost perfect, you can wrap the next-smallest step with paper (but not to overlap), and that should get it almost perfectly centered, then the next step will dig in.
âCanned airâ should blow off most of the shavings after youâre done.
Oh, and you might wanna leave a little slop in case one/more chips are ever-so-slightly âoffâ, so that putting the reflector on âem doesnât push/crush the corners.
You can still swap tailcaps, but not switches. Eg, as I mentioned, a black tailcap with rubber boot on a purple head+tube. But you wonât be able to stick a rubber switch in the purple tailcap without modding it first to swap metal/rubber.
Ahh, I see why you crossed it out.
Yeah, tailcaps are interchangeable as long as you donât mind a different color going from rubber â metal.
Thank you. Itâs quite regular flashlight, just big. But often small flashlight is more difficult to mod due to smaller parts and less room. Thus CRXâs builds are so amazing.
Cut off the little protective fins around a Jetbeam SF-AA01 switch that were too small for my thumb to comfortably press, and repainted. Huge usability difference.
Forgot to take picture: modded Novatac 120T into XPL, it was âleftoverâ emitter found in my storage box.
The driver canât really put enough juice though.
I usually use a jumper wire in place of the Tail Cap while on the Lumen Tube â- That will tell you how your switch,spring , Bi pass is holding upâ I started doing this after Iâd measure ridiculous amps with my clamp meter and the Lumen readings were a Let Down
V11r modded to E21a 3500k, repacked control ring w Nyogel 767a
blue locktite:
XM-L2 star about to be unsoldered:
E21a, freehand centered (from Clemence, his reflow, his mcpcb):
beams:
I like the 3500k E21a better, because it is more pink, than the 3500k 219b
I like the N219b 3000k better, because it is more orange, than the two 3500k
Initial V11r lumens on 16340 w XM-L2 was 0.01 low and 420 lumens max (spec is 1 lumen low, and 570 lumens max w 16340)
after the swap to E21a, 0.02 low, and 255 lumens maximum, that is a 40% drop
The control ring arrived very loose due to old grease. The Nyogel made it noticeably resistant to turning but can still be done with one finger.
Im waiting for a replacement reflector, atm the stock reflector produces rings in the spill w the E21a, plus there is a cross in the center of the beam when closer than 3â from the target. otoh, when shining on a wall 25 feet away, I like the tight hotspot w the E21a.
the V11r arrived with a metal switch cover that made noise and felt wrong. Installed the rubber switch cap, which I like better. The clip was not to my liking⌠took it offâŚ
E21a 3500k, YES!
I would do it againâŚ
all opinions subject to change⌠lol
relative tint, iphone auto white balance
the 3500k is âwhiterâ than incandescent⌠makes for a nice evening lightâŚ
the V11r reflector makes a tighter hotspot than my RRT-01âs that are flanking it.
Im really conflicted about the tailswitch on the V11r, but it has its strong points
momentary
memory