What did you mod today?

I’ve had this light forever. I like the host, but the multi led head wasn’t cutting it for me. I’d been thinking about modding it and happened to realize one day that it was really darn close to fitting a P60. So a cheap P60 from mtn electronics with a 8x7135 driver and a Nichia 219c were made to fit. Had to do some filing on the reflector, but it works beautifully now.

Snap-on would be jealous of your new and improved flashlight! Nice job Yacob29.

I definitely enjoyed the irony of improving a snap on product!

Modified two cheapo lights with better leds, they both came with XPE leds (at least they look like it, they maybe clones but who cares they are out now) and they were with very angry blue tint, probably 7000k.

Considering the price the build quality is okay, the lens are plastic and there is no shelf but it does not matter, after all it is cheap AAA light with probably 50ish lumens at best.

One of them got Cree XP-G2 S3 3D that i had laying around from my Noctigon Meteor and the other one received Nichia 219c 2700k 90cri led, yeah i know that Nichia is worth more money than the light itself lol.

In a previous post about my Olight S1R Baton II aux LED mod I complained about the protruding center charging contact that drains the battery when placed on a flat, metal surface and also affects the tailstand stability. Today I took this “light that I do not want” and tried to fix this issue.

To my surprise the tailcap/end of the flashlight was relatively easy to disassemble. I didn’t expect this from a shiny, bling-bling, mass market, “premium” flashlight. But I have to say that the flashlight is engineered really well. They could have made a really awesome flashlight with just a high CRI LED.

Here are the parts of the tailcap/end laid out:

From left to right we have:

  • Plastic (!) retaining ring that keeps everything at the right place
  • PCB with the outer spring and central contact on the back; a curved spring washer contact on the front which makes contact with the tube. Also the riveted central pin that is visible from the outside. (Wait – that pin in negative, but the center of the battery is positive! This means that the rivet and the ring shaped inner contact, that are less than 1 mm apart from each other, have different polarity! But it should be protected by the circuit.) There are also two chips and a few resistors.
  • O-ring that sits around the central pin
  • A plastic spacer that is slid over the contact and o-ring
  • The magnet that sits around the plastic spacer
  • Another o-ring that seals the top of the plastic spacer with the hole in the flashlight case

The two chips are labeled “2408 LV15” (probably a AON2408 n-channel MOSFET in DFN package) and “12B” (don’t know what it is). The traces are not visible under the black solder mask.

And now to the fix for the protruding contact: I made a plastic washer, inner diameter 5 mm, outer diameter 8 mm and a thickness of 0.4 mm. This washer is placed around the riveted pin, then everything else is put on top. The o-ring seal should still work, but the contact does not protrude as much as before anymore. 0.6 mm might have been better (it still makes contact with a flat surface, but is at the same height as the outer, silver ring). To put everything back in the tube I used a PVC pipe. This also helps to press the retaining ring far enough.

I swapped the dedomed 3V XHP50.2 in my Nightwatch NI40 for a shaved SST70 6500K. More fotos can be found here: REVIEW: Nightwatch NI40 Stalker [26650, dedomed 3V XHP50.2, beefy C8], with SST70 mod

Nice job. That is a new and interesting LED. The dies are very close together so should make a nice intense beam. Did you happen to get a precise measurement of the dimensions of the dies?

Edit: I guess we can assume it has 7mm^2 total area based on luminus naming. The xhp35 has 6.25mm^2 based on my measurements and the xhp50.2 has 8mm^2 (though the xhp50.2 effective area is a bit bigger because of the space between the dies).

I did some pixel counting measurements and it does appear to be 7.0mm^2. It seems that this emitter is putting out about 80% lumens/mm^2 vs both the SST20 and 40. So it’s fair to predict that this SST70(dedomed) will provide 35HI throw with a proportional 15-20% bump in lumens according to die size.

{sending prayers for HiCRI and 3V versions} Since it’s based on 4xSST20 dies HiCRI it might have a chance of happening. Looking at the bond wire configuration, it looks like we’re stuck with 6V…

Skylight, are you able to take any relative output measurements ?

I didn’t measure the die size. I could have done that but it’s too late as it is mounted now. It is quite a bit smaller than the dedomed XHP50.2 and more like the die size of a SST40.

I’m waiting for a high CRI or 5000K version as well. It should have a rosy tint because the one I used is rather green.

At the moment I can’t take any measurements, only comparisons with other flashlights and beamshots. The hotspot and throw is similar to the FT03 SST40.

A light meter and a clamp meter are on the way, though. :smiley:

Not sure about that particular Olight SammysHP but most Batons (or the ones I have) are using the positive end of the cell at the tail of the light. Positive through the host body? This set up is a large reason I don’t have more Olight flashlights.

M21A , 6a Convoy driver Culnm1.tg

Yes, the host body is positive. Not a big issue as long as the heat shrink tube of the battery is intact.

I modded my s2+ driver to dual channel 1x 7135 + 10x 7135 and added an otc capacitor for the Blf a6 firmware by toykeeper. I removed one 7135 regulator from the 8x 7135 group by cutting its vcc track underneath the attiny13 and bridged it to pin 5 instead to create the new 1x 7135 group.

Cool mod. Really great photo too!

Do you know about HQ’s 10x driver board? You can swap all the parts over and use up to 10x7135 without stacking.

Nice work Catnap. :beer:



Eagletac G25C2"diffuser":

g25c2host with p25lc2 diffuser circuit board and led's.

Awesome x1000 Hemionline :+1:

I love the G25C2 to begin with. (One of my favorite looking lights and just the right size IMO)

Did a driver and FW mod on my H03 headlamp. I switched to a simple 8x7135 driver for the current regulation (I had a FET driver with TK’s old ramping UI prior to this). The driver is a 17mm qlite and I used a brass 17-to-22mm converter ring from convoy. I had to sand down the OD for it to fit, and I also sanded down the thickness a bit for a good fit.

I have put a lot of thought into what modes and UI is ideal for this light. I like the ability to start in low by pressing and holding and the ability to move up or down in brightness, which the ramping UI provides. Smooth ramping is nice especially in the lower modes where preserving your nightvision is important, but it’s not ideal in the higher modes when you are more concerned with managing runtime and/or heat. My solution for this light was to modify the ramping table to have smooth(ish) ramping from moonlight to around 40 lumens, then stepped ramping after that. Here’s the ramping table I used: