What did you mod today?

Do you have any beamshots (indoor/outdoor) with this configuration?
Thanks in advance :wink:

i’m out of flashlights past 3 months but i can take a few during the weekend. Just send me PM, otherwise i’ll forget about it.

Thanks for your kindness! PM incoming :wink:

I managed to mod the firmware on a spare convoy 7135 based driver board, first time I have used one of these clips for soc-8 SMD MCU, pretty nifty! I have been able to customise the 12 groups with some of my own. Im still working on getting the thermal regulation to work, if i enable it the compiled code is over 1kb so it wont fit on the attiny13a.

The breadboard has a small white led for testing with, the tactile switch simulates the tail switch.

How? t13a doesn’t have builtin temperature sensor like t85. Are you experimenting with external temp sensor?

Nice one Jon!

After seeing TomE do an LED swap on the Astrolux LT1, I just did one with the Polished Titanium LT1 that was my People Choice Award prize for this year. The primary LED was a 6500K 70-CRI SST20. I knew I wanted something warmer and to use just an old LED I had sitting around available. I ended up throwing a 4000K XP-L2 in it. With being highly diffused light, I figured this was a good use for an LED with bad tint shift. Aside from there being 5 small wires to mess with, LED swaps are really easy on these.

That reminds me… I’ve got an SFT40 that I need to swap into my newly arrived Mateminco MT35 Mini (aka Astrolux FT03S). I’ve already got it flashed with Anduril2 instead of Narsil.

Edit: went ahead and swapped that SFT40 into the MT35 Mini while I had the supplies out. Whew, what a difference. Beast of an LED!

I bought this acebeam pt40 on sale a time ago but never used it because beam was too throwy for a work light. So I printed a spacer to replace the tir and hold the glass. Much better light as a mule.

I did not know that thanks. The s2+ I have that was sold as having thermal regulation must have a different MCU I will crack it open and have a look. This board I am playing with is a driver from the same store.

Simon sells this driver, which has an external NTC temperature sensor

thanks… :slight_smile:
I kept picturing yours, thanks for the support and inspiration :+1:

this pebble Tir is 30 degree, it is as floody as my FWAA… Im considering trying the 20 degree, in a future life… lol

such a sweet little host
.

Hi gchart,

I have a FT03 w/ SFT-40 arriving Monday and would prefer it with Andúril-2. Assuming the driver is identical to the MT35 Mini, is there a specific reflashing tool/kit required for that driver? If yes, where is it available to purchase? Thank you!

It should be identical, yes. You need the USBASP 2.0 that you use for most any other light. The issue is the non-standard programming pin arrangement that Mateminco/Astrolux used. I made a pogo pin adapter much like Zozz did in these posts. You need a special Anduril build as the FT03 hasn’t been in the normal code base. I just posted a pre-built hex file here and pushed the necessary changes to my branch of the Firmware Repository.

How does the beam look like with the 219b LED and stock TIR? I've been contemplating on modding my S11 with a 219b but I kinda like the beam profile/throw of the stock SST20. I can't decide whether to put in a high-CRI SST20 or a 219b.

Thank you very much for your help!

Swapped the led of a Acebeam E10 with a sliced SW45 R9080 Nichia 519A.

The bezel was not easy to open but it was not glued. I had to cut and sand a piece of steel to size to get it moving.

The pads were 3030 size (because of the KW CSLNM1-TG) but the 3535-size 519A was easy to reflow on it. I sliced the dome gradually off using a razorblade with a sequence of washers of decreasing thickness around the led as guidance for the blade.

Then the board went in again, once the bezel was open everything eas pretty straightforward.


The E10 with this much larger led die is still very throwy, but with a bit larger spotsize and the edge of the spot goes more gradually into the spill compared to the 1mm2 White Flat that was in light before.

And the tint is completely different now, as measured in the hotspot.

On lowest mode:
CCT=3530
Duv=–0.040
CRI=96.8
R9=89

On highest mode:
CCT=3700
Duv=–0.0059
CRI=96.0
R9=93

So great CRI, 3 percentpoints better than before slicing, and wonderfully rosy.

The output at max is now 560 lumen (with slightly depleted battery), of which most is in that hotspot.

Beautiful! :beer:

Great idea for the Bezel removal tool — making one today for a Rofis I was having trouble with —— :+1:

Way to go :+1: Love the results, I wanted to make the tight spot slightly larger as well.

I tried heating and my best efforts with the usual non-slip pads but couldn’t get mine to budge. Knowing it’s not glued gives me the confidence to try again.

djozz, that’s a pretty clever solution to the bezel divots! I think I may have to make up a couple like that. I’ve toyed with the idea of making some flat plate tools with short pins and brazing a nut or something to the top, but I like this approach.