I put one in a light last week, I didnt think it was the worst tint ever but my expectations weren’t high
I wasn’t expecting a really good tint, (I can deal with a tiny bit of green), but this was a really ugly yellow with a huge tint of green. Even with the included diffuser of the FT01, it was completely unusable. I would almost call it a sort of “puke yellow-green”.
I don’t know which CCT you had? (Maybe it’s less in cooler temps, or maybe I had just bad luck!)
Unfortunately I can’t show you some photos, because after ‘desoldering’, I immediately throw it away. On the other hand: the SFN40 I’ve put in my FT03, I’m still very happy with! (Unfortunately I don’t have a lumen-tube, because it puts out a lot of light, but I have no means to check how it really performs.)
I forgot to add it here, so here we go, i converted a Ti TS10 to a single.
It’s not much taller than it was before, which is nice. I’m using a Convoy T3 Ti bezel on it. Perfect fit, and imo it suits the TS10 better.
I don’t have any suitable drill bits to make the new holes on the shelf, and i dulled all my bits trying to get it done, so i had to improvise. I remembered one video i saw about wire EDM, so i made a ghetto EDM machine using a LiPO battery and some brass electrical terminals i had laying around, and it worked well enough for it.
There were some oopsies here and there but it went alright, way better than i could achieve with my steel bits.
I used the Yinding 5050 LED for it as i wanted a pocket thrower, and it offers a nice balance of high intensity while producing less heat than, let’s say, a SFT40, combined with the fact that it can be direct driven without issues, and let’s not forget that beautiful round die which produces a nice and artifact free beam (although quite green on lower output levels, didn’t got so lucky this time on the tint lottery).
For the aux LEDs i used two thin LED strips side by side.
For the optics i used the TIR lens from a Sofirn SP40a, sanded ~2mm from its diameter. Its bare now, there’s no space for a glass lens over it, but I’m going to glue a thin glass lens over it to avoid scratches.
I buffed it with a Scotch Brite sponge and finished with 600 grit sandpaper for that bare metal look i like.
And here’s the comparison between the stock triple vs the modified single. 1/1600 ISO 50, WB locked at 5200K for both shots.
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Very cool modding 
Great mod, good to know that the T3 bezel fit. But please buy some drill bits 
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Very cool. Any idea how many amps the stock driver in Ts10 is putting out?
I didn’t measured it, but with this configuration (stock 14500 cell, high Vf LED) and based on the brightness i believe it might get up to 5A with a freshly charged battery, but it will drop quickly.
Great job! I’ve used aux led strip like that but it never occurred to me you could do tri color leds with two strips side by side. That’s going to send me down a rabbit hole with some mod ideas I have…
The 3000K. Im changing up the reflector now but it looked pretty good. +0.0060 duv so not perfect or anything but at 3000k and below positive duv ends up just looking orange to me.
There’s a ton of variation with these chinese emitters though. I dont think they’re binned very precisely
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Choosing DIY EDM Machining based on the items you had on-hand versus purchasing a new drill bit reminds me of legit “Old Lumens-like” frugile ingenuity!
Thanks for sharing!
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I just don’t understand how this would work without killing the battery. I mean, aren’t you creating a direct short?
BTW, great mod!
Honestly, I had never heard of EDM and thus had to look it up. Hopefully your question can be answered by @TUIG101 or someone else.
I just wish Justin (Old Lumens) was still around!
Yeah… I looked it up. I found an AC circuit… like plug in the wall with rectifier and caps.
I think I was confused a bit by the OPs post because I saw just a LiPo battery and leads in the pic.
I am sure there are other parts and pieces in the circuit…
I am sure the confusion is just due to my ignorance.
Nope, the only parts are the LiPO battery, the brass electrical terminals which performed the “drilling” and a cup of water to act as the dielectric medium. The titanium just evaporates when the brass contacted it so all the battery sees is a very brief current spike, which is what this battery is designed to handle. Sometimes the brass ended up making a very nice contact with the titanium piece, and when it happened the brass contact melted instantly, which wasn’t nice for my hands, but it wasn’t a big deal for the battery. That battery was removed from a faulty equipment and was meant to be thrown away, so even if it got damaged (it didn’t) its future wouldn’t be any better, and it is going to be thrown away soon. It didn’t heated up, and at the end of the process the voltage got down from 12,6V to 12,0V.
How did you know? There is a test?
I use it in T1R and is gorgeous but I don’t test with SFT40 because I don’t have two identical flashlights (it’s not true, I have 3 but they are different LEDs)
There is a output test for it here, but keep in mind that the specimen djozz tested was very green, so the numbers are quite a bit higher than it would be on a not very green specimen.
At 5A, which is the current i believe this LED is drawing on this setup, it produces approximately 1400 lumens at 18W, not bad, not terrible. For a SFT40 to produce the same intensity this LED is producing at 5A it must output 2650 lumens at 36W, which is right at its peak output. The heat generation would be enormous, and considering that the Yinding already didn’t like the titanium host (big hole on the shelf didn’t help), it would be even worse with the SFT40. Realistically speaking the SFT40 wouldn’t run that hot on the TS10, the stock cell wouldn’t provide that much current for it, so it would probably run at 7A, which is already 24W, and the intensity would go down 17% compared to the Yinding.
So, using the SFT40 on this light would result in a increase of 33% in heat generation and a decrease of 17% in intensity.
In almost any other situation where heat dissipation and current draw isn’t a problem, and you aren’t chasing that last candela, the SFT40 would be a better option.
Not today, but a few weeks ago I swapped the side flood leds of a Sofirn IF23. The flood lamp was quite cool low CRI which is fine for illuminating the engine bay of your car, but since my use is far more likely as a camping light (as I do not own an engine bay, or ftm a whole car, or even a driving licence, while I do camp fairly often), I swapped them for 2700K 95+CRI Luminus Cube leds
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Thank you.
My Yinding tint is gorgeous and I am so happy with it.
Is 3000K and at 5 amp is hot but really good tint
Niceeeee!