Modded my Z1 with the blue, round “glass” 5050 20W emitter.
Next to the new green L21B (Getian 5050)
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I had a 16mm XHP70.3 HI R9050 5000k lying around, so decided to fit it into an S2+. Now that Simon is selling the 17mm 6V 5A drivers, it’s relatively easy to do.
The driver retaining ring requires a bit of dremeling to clear components on the battery side of the driver. I also added four solder blobs around the edge of the driver to keep the retaining ring a bit higher. I was originally going to solder some copper spacers, but that got too hard as all I had on hand was some copper 13mm pipe. Some thick solid core copper wire would have been perfect. (I didn’t want to solder the driver in the pill as it’s then very hard to remove it in the future.)
To take care of the reflector hole size, I drilled the hole out to 9mm (from the rear of the reflector.) You can get 9mm 7070 gaskets. A 9mm hole leaves a bit of the step on the rear of the reflector, drilling to 10mm would likely remove the step and could result in clearance issues to the MPCB + and - wires.
I tested it using a Murata 18650 VTC6 and was getting 9.4A at the tail cap using a clamp meter. The heat isn’t as bad as you’d expect, it can be run for a couple of minutes at 100%- with the output not dropping dramatically or it overheating. The beam is very floody with a slightly brighter centre hot spot (using an orange peel reflector.) I’ll try a smooth reflector at some stage.
I did put some heat sink compound on the pill threads when doing the final assembly. I haven’t bothered bypassing any springs as trying to max out the current will likely just result in faster overheating.
Update:
A bit more testing (using a clamp meter), shows the driver does appear to start lowering the current from 9 Amps almost as soon as the highest mode 100% is turned on. The heat also starts to be felt. After a couple of minutes the current has been reduced to 2.4A (tail cap) and the brightness noticeably drops - strange I didn’t pick that up during initial testing outside? That 2.4A equates to it dropping the current down to the 2nd brightest 35% mode. (I checked the 35% mode and it’s exactly that 2.4A level.)
I tried changing the group to the 50% maximum mode and it will stay on that max 50% level for a reasonable time and it’s (of course) brighter than it dropping down to the 2.4A/ 35% level. Perhaps that’s a Convoy software thermal programming discrepancy? So having the group set to 50% will give you a brighter output for longer, but you won’t be able to go anywhere near the LED’s maximum potential. It still gets warm on the 50% mode but the software doesn’t seem as eager to step it down, even though it’s quite warm to hold.
So it’s a bit like a TS10- very bright for a short burst (but the Convoy doesn’t step off a cliff and subtly reduces the brightness.) A fun experiment, but I’ll probably transfer the XHP70.3 HI to a better host.
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Perfect.Congrat.Any idea about lumens?
Thanks.
I don’t have any way to measure it, sorry.
It is the 90CRI version I’ve fitted, so it won’t be the most impressive XHP70.3 out there for lumens. (Even if the S2+ body and 18650 battery can keep up with the current and thermal demands of the LED.)
It’s basically replacing an S2+ I’d fitted a 3V XHP50.3 in. I had a TIR in that one and went to change it last week to a narrower beam- the XHP50 dome (complete with phosphor layer) stayed in the TIR. So that S2+ now is only useful if you want to hold a 1980’s disco. I’ll do something else with that one. The 6500k temp and low CRI were a bit annoying anyway.
I took it out in the backyard last night and compared it to my Emisar D1 - fitted with a GT-FC40 (R9050 4000-4500k). The overall output, with the Emisar on turbo, was very similar. However, the Emisar has a tighter hot spot and so would win the overall distance stakes. The S2+ has a less defined and wider hot spot. Overall flood spill width was virtually identical with the S2+ having a brighter spill area.
I’ll try and get some pics (in a wide open area) to compare them.
I’ve been lurking for a little while and gotten lots of great info, but this is my first post here. I’m pretty new to modding lights so this is super basic but I dedomed 2 of the 4 5700k 519a emitters in a D4K, and also stone washed the pocket clip so it’s a little less shiny.
I’m really happy with the resulting tint mix, it’s super pleasant to look at in my opinion.
For comparison the tint mixed D4K is in the middle with a 5000k 519a on the left and a 3500k 219b on the right.
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Welcome!
You’re going to love it here, EbonHawk!
If you post ImgBB’s Direct Link on a new line, the image will show on BLF.
Thank you! I think I figured it out with the direct image link now.
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Simple one today-
My blue Sofirn SP10 Pro arrived a couple of days ago, I bought it on sale for $13.99; I’ve been wanting a smaller sized UV light than my S2 for a while, and this seemed like a good host to try.
Purple anodising would have been even more suitable, but alas, it’s not an option Sofirn offer…
Also had ordered a Luminus SBT-10X-UV 365nm LED from Convoy and a 18mm x 1.5mm ZWB2 ‘lens’ from Aliexpress.
Reflowed the LED to the stock SP10 board. I’d guestimated the 18mm size for the ZWB2 filter- for a (fairly) popular light, nobody seems to have measured the stock glass! Thankfully, the 18mm is perfect.
With a charged cell, it seems to emit more UV than my (older) convoy S2. It does run on NiMh but at reduced output- still plenty for checking banknotes or something close up. The beam shape is slightly more focused than the stock emitter.
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Thanks for this. I have been thinking about a nice small UV light. This looks like it would be pretty easy to do.
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Probably drops out of regulation quickly due to high Vf of the UV LED.
I also ordered XM-L sized (5050), 10W, 365nm LEDs from AliExpress, which are much cheaper than the SBT-10X-UV by Luminus. I focused on emitters which “should” be able to handle the current output of the SP10.
I did look at the 10W 365nm LEDs- The stock SP10 board is a 3535 board, so, assuming a “normal” MCPCB, you have to modify the 5050 LED board- requires a slot cutting for a “post” that’s inside the head of the light, also requires reducing the diameter by about 1-2mm.
I successfully just about managed to do this (I removed slightly too much diameter so lost the solder mask between the copper base and the negative pad!). It was soldered up and a quick test revealed the LED functioned fine.
At this point I looked at the reflector- I didn’t take any measurements, but the hole will need widening to take a spacer for the 5050 LED. I suspect this would be easy enough with a Dremel type tool, but ultimately I wanted the Luminus LED in this host so didn’t make any more modifications.
The stock board is quite thin, the normal DTP boards are about half as thick again- I think that if you lost some height of the reflector while opening the hole, the added thickness of the MCPCB would balance things out.
This looks very nice, I might just have to copy it and make one for myself.
Yeah, it seems sofirn and wurkkos like to use 1mm boards for these extra-small lights to save space. IIRC kaidomain has that size available.
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another option is the Jetbeam UV AAA,
true 365nm, nice and small… it only lacks a ZWB filter… which may not matter… depends on your application… Note that ZWB is 2mm thick, I believe the stock lens is 1mm… so the ZWB will increase the bezel to body gap slightly…
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Doesn’t have UV lightning/candle mode though 
In seriousness, for a very compact 365nm light, that does look nice 
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M21F XHP70.3 HI 4000K modded with 35mm 3-degree clear TIR
TIR diameter shaved down from 35mm to 33.1mm
Raised MCBCP - 7.8mm
Beam comparsion, L: M21A SFT-40, R: M21F XHP70.3 HI 3-degree clear TIR
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Can’t see any photo
I’m going to have to get more TIR lights, that “throwy flood” looks great!
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nice work!
thanks for the great photos
congrats on your mod 
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Just a small mod but I put a 5000k SFT-40 in a Convoy C8.
I really like the beam profile. The hot spot is quite bright but still big enough to be useful, and the spill is bright enough to be useful up close.
I used a convoy 5a buck driver I had on hand so it’s definitely leaving a few lumens on the table vs an 8a driver, but still very bright.
I’ve seen a lot of talk about the 3000k SFT-40 but not as much about the 5000k. I think the 5000k looks really good in person and has a pleasant tint.
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