Modded my trusty old quad S21A. Switched from quad 519A to 4500K E21A, Convoy 8A buck driver and Carclo 10623 optic. I decided to drill out the bezel with as I didn’t like how much of the optic was covered by the bezel. Then I stripped off the anodizing and stonewashed it.
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Last night I did something I’ve wondered about for some time. A year or so ago when we got a new dishwasher my curiosity was piqued. The new dishwasher ran a lot hotter but we also changed the detergent to Cascade Platinum pods so I am not certain what caused the phenomenon. I think it may have been the detergent change.
One of those cheapy pie tins that frozen pie shells come in was put through the wash and it came out a darkish grey color instead of the usual shiny aluminum.
So last night I ran an old Sofirn C8F shell thru the wash. It had been baked and then chemically de-anodized. Here it is along with a pie tin…
I’m not sure what I am going to do with it, but thought I’f post a picture in case someone was intrigued. My experimental item had been handled badly before this whole baking, de-anodizing thing was commenced.
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Looks good! I tried running my raw aluminum S21A through the dishwasher with the same detergent even, but it came out looking the same as it did going in.
This LG dishwasher runs very hot, much hotter than the old one. I wonder if that makes the difference? I’ll try to get a temperature reading next time it runs.
Can you just boil it in the pot with dish washing powder?
There ya go! Use a stainless steel pot
I’ve been wanting to put a TIR with XHP70.3 in a M21A for a while now, but only recently I decided on the optic. Then I had to wait for Mouser to get them back in stock.
The parts I used are:
5000K R70 XHP70.3 HD
Ledil Iris 10° and holder
Convoy 17mm 6V5A driver and 17mm to 20mm adapter
6mm aluminum spacer under the mcpcb
I was planning on slicing the dome, and I was expecting I’d need to use minus green also. To my surprise, the tint is way better expected. I’ll more than likely still slice it though to make it a bit warmer, but I wanted to see what it was like with dome on. I’m trying to resist the urge to order a few more leds.
Overall, I’m quite happy with the result. I look forward to comparing it to my M21B with TIR. I can take some beam shots tomorrow if anyone is interested.
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Great mod!
How intense is the resulting beam?
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Interesting! I wonder if this TIR can work with smaller LES like the SFT40? I have an SFT40 M21A that I wanted to put a TIR in for a long time but I can’t find a suitable one. I want a 3 degree clear with good size. Your TIR might work and I can polish the front surface with rubbing compound, but it might show artifacts.
Has anyone modded an Acebeam Tac AA with a different driver?
This comment is not letting me go…
Could you give me any details about how that would be done?
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It’s not a thrower like an IF22a or TS11 that’s for sure, but it’s not pure flood either. It’s probably easier if I just take some pics tonight and post those.
There’s actually a couple of 5° Iris optics. FCA12077_IRIS optimized for XP-E and FCA12104_IRIS optimized for XM-L
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I saw a FB post where they put in a convoy 8A Buck so I tried it with a 17mm 5A Buck. The mod is permanent. The stock driver is screwed in. After removing the driver you’ll need to grind down the screw posts in the pill so the components clears on the convoy driver. Also had to sand the driver diameter to get it to fit into the pill. Finally, removed the spring from the driver.
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So, I’m having a hard time finding the information in 1 place.
This is the best post I could find in regards to modifying the firmware to add Aux:
Basically we remove the unused Optic Nerve feature and convert it to be Aux +.
There’s a unused capacitor and resistor right above the T85 chip that you remove and you use the resistor pad for Aux + and I typically solder the Aux - to the FET.
Edit: I found my Imgur post with pictures of the mod
Thank you!
Hmmm. I’m going to have to look into the details of this. I assume I need one of Lexel’s AUX boards for this. Where would I get hold of one so many years after he made them? Or would it also work with the lume1 AUX board, just hooking up one of the colours?
Great, then I’m going to try it.
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Thank you! Good to know.
Honestly I found that way too much effort. Just solder the aux LED + to pin 7 of the MCU.
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I solder directly on the MCU on the FWAA drivers, but mostly because they don’t have the additional pad.