Besides your blue AUX, yours are much brighter than mine.
My greens are around 0.07mA at 4.1V. I only use green in my 14500 flashlights in order to maintain my 1+ year threshold that I have with lighted tailcaps.
Of course I only have 2 to 4 LEDs in my tailcaps vs 6+ with yours. And yours are more spread out vs in a smaller silicone boot.
BTW, nice job on your brass FW3A! 
Nah. The plan is to make entire flashlights. Iāve got a few things cooking.
I cut the corners on those gaskets so itās just a square. They are slightly too small as is
While waiting for Hank to make D1AA, thefreemanās FWAA driver will do the thingā¦
But in FW1AA running Nichia B35 will shine even more.
At the moment i just finished testing and tomorrow will be installed in FW1AA
For test purposes i used XHP50.3 
More updates to follow
90% finished FW1AA with thefreemanās boost driver running Nichia B35 on Eneloop.
Waiting for aux board to install, wires are there already.
Very impressive! I struggled to flow a single luxeon V onto a 3535 board, let alone 8!
I had to say it went surprisingly smoothly. I needed to fix 1 led that had rotated 90Ā°. After that no problems.
Here is todayās mod: a single emitter reflector d4v2 (a d1v0?). Iām sure Iām not the first, and itās only a proof of concept, but Iām pretty pleased with the result. I might try my hand at brazing to make a bezel thatās not reliant on sellotape!
Beam looks great!
That is what we needed from the start. Great job!
Awesome! Iāve thought about doing something similar with two SS bezels but havenāt gotten to it yet.
Was the driver glued?
The driver was lightly glued in, yes. Not too hard to push out from the other side.
Iāve noticed that there is a standard plumbing pipe fitting with the same inner diameter as the outer diameter of the bezels (28mm), so two SS bezels could be brazed together using this. Itās not an ideal solution but I canāt think of an easier way of getting a longer bezel with both the threaded bottom section & the lip at the top to hold the glass.
Sadly I donāt have the tools to machine such a part out of one piece of metal, but if I like this one I may investigate getting some made.
This may be easier said than done, but my plan was to stack the two bezels, heat the joint from the outside with a torch, and use silver solder applied to the inside of the joint to braze them. Then Iād grind away the face of the lower bezel with a die grinder. I havenāt done a lot of brazing but I think it should work with just the bezels and no inner piece.
Iām still undecided on the exact mod idea. I want to keep the aux so Iāll use a TIR. The aux board wouldnāt work so Iād reflox some rgb aux on two side-by-side strips of 0603 LED strip and make a flexible aux ring. Then I started thinking about how to use a dual channel D4V2 with a center single TIR for throw and a ring of CSP LEDs for a flood channelā¦ maybe getting a little too ambitious.
That sounds very cool if you can pull it off. I think your idea for stacking & brazing bezels would work; the single TIRs arenāt that tall.
Silver solder paste maybe? Good luck. Iād be buying 10 bezels if I was going to give that a try lol. Iād definitely ruin a bunch of them.
I think Iād probably try and make a whole new out of one piece of steel pipe or something if I was going to do it. But idk
Iāll try it sometime and report back. I have the tools and supplies. Too many competing projects though.
Iāve had success using plumbing fittings/pipe, and a thread tap to make smaller bezels, e.g. for the TS10.
Someday Iāll own a mini metal lathe and make all the bezels I could ever want.
What about a copper bezel? Easy to work with and bezel-sized copper pipe is plentiful
Make the lathe happen! One can never have too many tools.
Hereās the next iteration of the d1v0:
I wanted to braze it but I went with jb weld (the thinking manās brazing) instead as its what I had to hand. The copper section is a cut down 28mm end feed plumbing fitting, which happens to be exactly the right inner diameter. It has an inner lip that the SS outer bezel is pushed up against to square it, and the aluminium bezel is at the bottom threading on to the head of the light.
Its surprisingly light; I expected the copper to add much more weight but its not really noticeable at all.
Very niceā¦ Hey, wait a second!..
. . .
I will see you in court! 
