Thanks! Ceramic screws are new to me - pretty crazy.
The heart is just there to look nice, the 1 is the revision; my TS10 PCBs are up to 3 
-LF are my initials, didn’t wanna print my username.
After an enforced break waiting for various coloured LEDs, resistors, AUX-boards and adapter boards to arrive from various places, I was finally able to do my next FW3A mod.
This one was time-consuming to say the least.
I tried an ATTiny1616 driver upgrade, which I’d never attempted before. On top of that, I decided it needed custom AUX LED colours on a Tri-LED AUX board, and I needed to find the right resistor values for the different colours.
I sourced the T85-to-T1616 adapter boards from OSHPark. The photos show 3 adapter boards next to a MicroSD card.
It took me quite a few tries to get the T1616 MCUs mounted on the adapter boards properly. Once on, I could flash a custom Anduril build, based on Adair’s T1616 configuration, but with ramp configuration from @INeedMoreLumens and with a few of my preferred configs.
The next challenge was to remove the old T85 MCU from a FET+7+1 driver. My first attempt failed and resulted in a destroyed driver - I must have used too much heat, and the MCU contacts lifted off with the old MCU.
After the second attempt succeeded, I could mount the adapter board and wire up the 3 AUX LED channels.
The next step was to install pink, warm white and ice blue LEDs on a Tri-LED AUX board. As I hadn’t used custom colours before, I needed some trial and error to find the right resistor values for a balanced, not too bright setup.
After mounting in my purple FW3A host, along with 5000K 519As, I could finally be sure of having found the right resistor values.
The colours go well with the purple host. I love they way the colours only partially mix with the Tri-LED AUX board.
Pink
Warm white
Ice blue
All three colours
21 Thanks
The rgb cable are a pain in the ass! Very nice color and great work. Enjoy
Emitter swap in my girlfriend’s Sofirn SP10B. I gave it to her sometime around 2018. This is a truly used light, for every day use. The switch is absolutely working fine.
Previously there was a XP-G2 neutral white with slightly greenish tint. (70 CRI of course)
Now there is a dedomed 5700 K 519A R9080 inside. Beam is almost the same as before.
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Having a long weekend, I decided to do a FW3A mule mod that I’ve been planning for some time. Originally, this was planned to be a FET+7+1 upgrade with a single AUX colour, but having done my first T1616 upgrade yesterday, I changed my mind and decided this one should also have the T1616 upgrade. I also chose the same AUX colours as I chose for my purple mod.
The Zhu hybrid mule insert needed to be shaved back a bit to fit over the AUX LEDs without crushing them. Other than that, this was more or less a repeat of my purple FW3A mod, with 219B SW45Ks sourced from Hank instead of 519As.
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Yinding L90 (Round die “SBT90” but with an acrylic window) swapped my Jaxman Z1
It measures nearly 250KCd OTF with a modified Convoy 22mm FET driver (swapped to a lower RDSon N-FET)
Also made a battery spacer for a 26800 to be used with the 2S 26650 extension tube. An M8 bolt with brass buttons soldered on each end and some UV cure resin to align it.
A proper Bonklight.
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Getting crazy with my TS10s, and no signs of stopping 
Had it in the works for a while, this is my take on a multi-emitter mule. NovMU’s little brother!
Mule with 18x Nichia E17A
Custom MCPCB, 5000K/2700K mix
Can’t be missing the RGB!
1mm Spacer, MCPCB and 3mm Diffuser are pressed down by an 18mm glass under the bezel
Nice & rosy beam, extremely bright from such a small light!
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This is great. Did you use a spacer for the mcpcb or does it just sit at the same height as original?
Also, do you know a good source of the e17a & e21a emitters?
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I’ve got a 1mm laser cut aluminium spacer, could go thicker with a thinner diffuser.
The E17A are from LEDs.de, but they only have R80 in stock. The good ones are nowhere to be found since Clemence is gone.
You can remove that piece of glass off the L90 and it gets rid of those square artifacts. Really cleans up the beam.
Just a quick mod, a FET tailswitch conversion so I can use a remote switch on my M26C. I chose an XT60 only because it was the most robust connector I had on hand, all it does is break out the gate and source of the FET. The remote switch on the other XT60 simply connects the gate between the source and a CR2032 depending on the position (SPDT switch). This setup was a lot better than the doubled up 12AWG wires needed to prevent voltage sag to the 6V8A driver at 100%.
FET is the common Taiwanese N-ch MOSFET used in a lot of FET drivers, the WSD2090DN56 with the drain mounted to one of the side pads of the stock 20mm switch PCB (with the switch removed). Source is mounted to the centre copper fill by carefully grinding away the soldermask to only touch the 3 source pins, and a 30AWG wire was soldered carefully to the gate pin and drain. (really weird setup electrically, but as it’s powered with an external CR2032 it seems to work just fine, and means less PCB modding was required)
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Do you know what the maximum current the l90 can handle is? I’ve been thinking of building an l21b with 12A convoy driver, can it handle much more?
I don’t have solid numbers, but I’m estimating close to 20A given how I swapped the FET on the driver for a lower RDSon FET and bypassed springs, tested with LR2170LH and a P45B. I wouldn’t go much higher cause I did see a bit of blue tint shift, and the limiting factor is likely the stock 22AWG LED wires (a 22mm driver pocket can just about fit 18AWG silicone wires)
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The Convoy 22mm 12A FET driver will supply more than 12A.
Someone measured 18+ amps with one.
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Thanks that’s all v helpful. Can the stock convoy switches hold up to all that current?
While china plays hot potato with my order of 1800k firefly emitters. I have some HL2X 1800K 80 cri (koef3 review) to play with from mouser and built up a Convoy S2+ Triple, Wowtac A1 zoomie (not pictured) , and baked brown Ti3v2 with optics.
I couldn’t get a good photo but next to GT-FC40 1800k, XT-E 2200k (a one sided war against the cree rainbow with zircon 802 and milky filter and XP-G2 Amber they are noticeably more yellow compared while HL2X leans towards orange
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The best 1800K emitter so far is the FFL351A I tested some days ago. Really good light with good CRI and perfect tint. In comparison for me the HL2X are more on the yellow side and looked more like PC Amber, maybe due to its CRI of only 80.
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I’ve always bypassed the springs because you’re going to get lower resistance anyways and higher turbo.
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Do you think they are better than the E17A 1850K LEDs? I’m really happy with mine and can’t imagine an even better LED.
Yes, because of standard footprint (3535) and higher power. (I did not test the E17A, but it is obvious that the overall power is much lower due to missing thermal pad and smaller LES)
I terms of spectrum and color quality the Nichia might be slightly better, but for me is the compatibility the real advantage here.
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