My Firefly emitters arrived today and boy do they not disappoint. LH2X 1800k looks fine by itself but absolutely FFL351A 1800k is in a different league. Can only hope Firefly can keep their quality in check.
I dedomed my Frazlabs lights with 219C 3000k, but they turned purple afterward. Maybe I made a mistake and damaged the phosphor layer. I plan to replace them with 519a 4000k soon.
I didn’t know that, so I dedomed it by peeling off the flexible plastic cap, thinking it was like the 519a (I had done a few 519a dedomes on D4v2 before). And I paid the price for it :laughing: Luckily, I still have a few 519A LEDs here, and I’ll replace them when I have time.
Compared to L10 with original 219b 4500k, there’s very little difference. Firefly mode is slightly brighter (the newer batch of 219b are also brighter).
The beam is uniform and the emitter fits perfectly with the stock reflector with some kapton tape to cover for shorts. The model I used is apparently from 2013, it has certainly stood the test of time.
Generally it just means the driver will heat up and step down faster than the LEDs since nearly half the power will be dissipated by it with a full cell. The SST-20-DR emitters have a decently high max current so I wouldn’t be worried about overcurrent unless it was FET driven (though a buck may have stability issues running at a lower voltage than it was configured for)
The Olight Baton 3 Pro Max in Brass is a gorgeous Torch. I decided to give it an emmiter to match it with gorgeous light.
Olight Baton 3 Pro Max with Luminus SFT-70 3000K 95CRI.
Went the semi-easy route. Dragon driver and mcpcb from CWF. 219c 4000k. My soldering looks like dookie. (Bad enough that I really don’t want to show it.) But… It works like it should. Means I didn’t jack anything up, right? Can’t run it on 100% too long. It heats up fast. Might end up changing the mode group to something that tops out at 70% or something.
I did give it a run on my Opple. It clocked in at 4216k and CRI: 91.61. I can live with that!