Mod in-progress. Here’s how I removed the HD10 bezel:
I slipped the head of a small nail under the bezel (I had to grind the head of this nail thinner to fit). It just pushes against the oring and should slide under there. I lined it up over one of the optic posts so as to not scratch an important part of the optic. Then, leverage the nail toward the center of the optic. I used piers for a better grip on the nail.
As with any press-fit bezel removal, do a little at a time, moving frequently, so you don’t bend the bezel. I scratched the optic a bit from prior attempts at removal. The scratches aren’t a big deal but I may try to buff them out. The nail in the pic is bent from leveraging it. That bezel was really stuck in there!
Next, I will attempt an emitter swap with hot air on the face of the MCPCB. I’ve never done this so I’m a little worried. The goal is to put some E17/E21 (I forget which I have) in there.
Edit: Emitter swap a success! First, I failed at reflowing on the face of the MCPCB. I had to remove the board. @ebastler 's review and teardown gave me the confidence to continue. I used de-soldering braid to remove the solder on the board. It’s not necessary to remove the switch.
The reflow was easy enough (maybe I got lucky though). For some reason I decided to keep one of the stock 4000K LEDs, and I installed two e17a, a 2700K and a 4500K. I figured I could save a few bucks and keep using one of the stock LEDs, while still getting a good result from the two Nichias. I should have figured out how to test the mix without needing to re-solder everything - I’m not sure I’m happy with the tint.
I think the design with the driver, MCPCB, etc. is pretty neat. Unfortunately, it’s a little time-consuming to mod but not too difficult.
Here’s a pic with the three different LEDs (stock on bottom, Nichia e17a 2700K top-left, 4500K top-right). I put DC Fix on the optic. I think it makes a slight tint improvement and a little extra flood is nice (plus it hides the scratches). The pic is a little weird I think due to the PWM interfering with my phone’s camera.
Ooh nice. The beam is so much nicer with those rings removed. Great job and the op reflector is much better. I didn’t know they did a red Sc31, it’s pretty and nicer than the usual black. I’m useless so just clanked an S2+ 38 degree beaded tir in mine and called it a day as that’s the level of diy I have
Well that’s just greedy hah. Seen the purple on Aliexpress but the red is the best looking. Very nice and now I want one as it’s different and yeah I do like op reflectors. Might have to give it a whirl. What’s the worst that could happen I dont need all my fingers anyway.
If you use a S2+ OP Reflector:
You’ll need to reduce the diameter.
They are about 12mm tall.
The SC31 Pro stock Reflector is 10mm tall.
I used a thinner MCPCB, thinner lens and no oring(I just used the clear plastic ring) to make up for some of the difference.
Ooooh they’re all pretty and the blue looks a lot nicer than the pics I’ve seen on AE. Still liking that red though and thinner MCPCB you say. Right that’s me back out. Thought I was an engineer when I clanked a 5050 tir in and changed the oring to match hah but swapping mcpcb’s or any sort of soldering and I’m useless. I want to turn the main head of mine silver to match the tube and bezel but as soon as I clicked on I’d have to desolder I convinced myself that black is nice enough
I really like the green too. I did ask Sofirn if they were going to do an updated buck driver version of the SC31 Pro, like Wurkkos did with the FC11, but they said “no plans.”
Not that there’s anything terribly wrong with the stock driver, it’s perfectly fine for general use - but it would be much sweeter with a nice regulated driver.
I did a mod today that was fairly pointless, swapped the SST40 of a Convoy S21E for a SFT40 3000K 90CRI, while you can also simply order that light with that emitter already installed from Simon, no swapping needed. At least I measured output before and after so now I know that going from SST40 (with dome, cool, and low CRI) to SFT40 (no dome, warm, 95CRI) will leave you with 55% of original output, and that the smooth reflector of the S21E makes a very ugly beam no matter the focus. I swapped in the OP reflector of another S21E and that makes a lovely beam.
Then I did a bare led test on the SFT40 3000K 95CRI which was also pointless because only after the test I thought of checking BLF if someone had done that already and indeed koef3 had done the test ages ago (but I missed it because I’m not on BLF that often anymore). At least our results match quite nicely.
Btw, it is fun to read the first post in this thread from pilotdog68, about his fear that modding on BLF was dead. And here we are 8 years and 13040 posts later…
Swapped out whatever crappy emitter Olight uses in my Baton 4. Dropped in a 219b 4000k.
Kinda messed up the lip trying to get the bezel off. Its pretty soft aluminum! It really didn’t take much effort to chew it up. I sanded it to try to get some of the chips out. Now there’s a small gap. Thinking about trying to squeeze a copper washer in there. We’ll see.
Beam pattern didn’t really change. No artifacts (that I can see). The color is a whole lot better, though. Did seem to lose the turbo function. Wondering if it might be because of the low battery. Pics are a comparison with my neghbors stock emitter Baton 4.
Lux from about 18" - 13000
CCT - 3807k
CRI - 97.4
DUV - -0.0065
R9 - 90.97
