SC21 Pro w sw45k and 25° Pebbled Tir:
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Two of my Reylights had the exact same emitter… 519a 4000k. So I decided to try my hand at dedoming. Not to bad! There’s definitely a difference.
The blue LANapple is the one that went under the chopping block. Slightly smaller, more focused and slightly rosier beam than the Ti LANapple (it looks more white in the photo. It’s not). Looks good, though!
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If you want something slightly nicer, Convoy has the 3v XHP50.3 HI. I put one in an otherwise-stock FW1A Pro and it is impressively bright.
The tint of the 5700k version is a bit greenish though, DUV=0.0036. Probably still better than a XHP50.2
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Good one! I totally forgot about that option. The reason I was thinking about the XHP50.2, is that I still have a few of them laying around.
I don’t have a flashlight with a XHP50.3 HI in my collection, so that’s another good reason to go for that option!
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I hadn’t considered a 3V xhp 50.3.
I’ve been planning to mod my Acebeam pokelit with an sft40 as I think it will output more than the Nichia 219f due to higher efficiency. I have some mcpcb’s that will fit.
But would an xhp50.3 produce more output? I realize they have different beam profiles.
Any input is appreciated. Thanks.
I wouldn’t expect it to be brighter, the 219F probably means it has a constant-current driver.
The XHP50.3HI is also a very large LES, so it has issues focusing in smaller lights. If I was doing that mod, I would probably go to an SFT40 or an XP-L HI instead, they’ll have a more usable beam.
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I took a gamble and ordered a Ledil CA16128_OLGA-M to try in my Fireflylite Pharos X1S (XHP50.3 HI).
Once the OLGA-M is removed from the factory holder it actually fits inside the X1S fine. The overall maximum diameter is a couple of millimetres too small to seat nicely in the shell, like the factory Gaggione TIR does, but it fits over the factory fit LED gasket okay and the bezel tightens down fully to hold it firmly in place.
It’s gone from very tight to more of a widespread beam- verging on flood almost.
I had to make up a few $ on a Digikey order to get free shipping- so it was worth trying.
I can post up some pics if anyone is interested?
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Why is that exactly? Is it a fragile LED?
Nichia 119D and 219F tested. it burns up at 4A
Hmm ok but why that would limit the driver to be CC? I have several 8x7135 that should be fine with them. Offering 2.800mA and still being linear.
Low maximum current, and a low Vf means it burns out easily when direct driven, so it needs a current-regulated driver.
Correct me if I`m wrong but isn’t a constant current driver different from a current regulated driver?
As far as I know all drivers are current regulated except for FET. Not to be confused with a constant current driver, AKA buck or boost driver.
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Acebeam almost always spends the extra buck on constant-current regulation. Especially seeing how the Pokelit is an AA/14500 light.
I brought a HD10, loved the symmetrical aux LEDs, so i brought another just to destroy it and swap its MCPCB to a TS10. Was harder than i expected, had to redo two traces that disappeared while grinding/sanding the MCPCB to the correct shape but everything worked afterwards. Now i have a better looking TS10 and the deceased HD10 now serves as a 14500 charger.
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Built a cyan and red S2+. Cyan aux with red SST20 's 660nm. I lost one of the three cyan aux when it jumped out of my tweezers. But I’ll get a new one in there soon enough.
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Some further info on this, having a new 3D printer I thought I can print out a spacer/ gasket for the Ledil optic. If anyone wants to do the same it’s needs to be 32.7mm OD, 29.9mm ID and 4.0mm high. But like I said, it’s not really necessary as the bezel glass holds the Ledil Olga optic in place.
X1S with Ledil Olga M fitted
Bezel removed showing spacer - it works fine without the spacer.
X1S stock Gaggione TIR beam spread.
X1S fitted with Ledil Olga M beam spread.
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Made a new body for the TS10. It’s less appealing than OG but it was a good exercise to build up my skills
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Anybody tried modding an Olight Prowess? I’m putting ffl351a, 5000k and 1800k in it.
I can’t seem to get the other 3 emitters to light up. Plus, the bottom ring doesn’t work anymore. Not sure what the problem is. I’ve checked, double then triple checked everything. It’s all good. (The writing on the mcpcb was my doing so I could keep the right orientation)
Thoughts?
If you swap the black wires do the same Leds light up?
Scratch that, all 6 should light up together on that mcpcb.
Are you sure the polarity is correct on the 3 that don’t light up?
I now think the other black wire is for the bottom ring.
Note: I see exposed wire on the center Black wire so make sure you don’t short it out on something.
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Yup! I pulled them off and checked them. The notch is on the negative side. Just like the 3 that are good.
Good catch! I didn’t see that. I’m sure I’ll have to pull them off again. I’ll wrap that one in something. Pretty sure I have hear shrink that small.