Good point!
It dropped to $39.15 after $2 coupon and coins
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Thanks for your recognition and support of our products! We are always striving to improve the performance of our products to provide a better experience for our users.
Regarding the SFT-40 version of the Q8 Pro you mentioned, we will feedback your suggestion to our R&D team to see if it is possible to implement it in a future product.
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The reflector may need a redesign. The beam shape is not very good with SFT40.
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Thatâs a lot of flashlight for the money!!!
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New Mod Day,
remove Low CRI SFT40 6500K and install High CRI SFT40 3000K into Sofirn HS21
cool white on solder mat, warm white on mcpcb:
Proof of Light!:
Before and After:
Photo Album
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Proof of light is always satisfying! 
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I took the plunge and dedomed my Wurkkos TS26S. I was concerned about it turning out to be too warm for my tastes (OEM domed 519A 5000k).
Itâs actually not as warm as I was expecting. Thereâs a nice central hot spot, which should improve the throw at night. In the before photo it almost seems to have a slightly darker central spot with the domes on.
It was my first time dedoming any LED, and the 519A is so easy to do. I ran it on turbo for a couple of minutes and then the domes were easy to brush off.
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Boruit D10 headlamp new driver and LED. Came apart easily enough. The MCPCB was really stuck with some old thermal compound. Heat gun softened it up and it came off. I cut a notch out of the edge of the driver to run new, longer wires to the LED.
So for the switch, I was tired and wanted to try something quickly, so I used hot melt glue - a big old blob right on the MCU, a plastic washer in the middle, and another blob between that and the switch. This could turn out to be a problem if the driver gets hot enough to soften the glue.
519A 3500K (domed) to replace the ugly purple XM L2.
I used it on medium mode for a couple hours over the weekend and so far so good, but I am a little worried about that glue becoming a problem. Itâs a solid headlamp host, especially considering it was about $5 (not including new driver, LED, and my time, of course).
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How did you remove the driver?
The images wonât load for me.
Yeah, those pictures are gone. I used Abload for them and itâs no more.
I think I used thin blunt wooden stick (cocktail stick) and punched the driver out through led wire hole. First you need to remove reflector and led pcb of course and push the wires inside the driver cavity for some room for the stick.
Interestingly this is the same thing I ended up doing lol but I used a tiny screwdriver and some heat
Where did you connect the resistor though?
Was it on an R010 or R030 resistor?
The one that connects to LED - ?
It had R010, and I added R030 on top of it. That 7.5A I got out of it, is on the upper limit of MP3431 boost converters capacity. Especially on lower battery levels it might overheat. I havenât used it that much to be sure.
Because of that reason most of boost drivers using MP34xxâs are set to max 6A-7A. Also efficiency takes some hit on higher output levels.
The MCPCB in my D10 was the same way 5 years ago, it was a pain to remove! 
This is probably a stupid question, or at lest shows how stupid I am, but its come to mind in serveral threads here lately
How the heck does stacking resistors gain anything? I can see it changing the current path, but not being additive⌠I mean, both ends of the first one are still connected, wouldnât the current (literally) just take the route of the least resistance, Ie one or the other, and bypass the 2nd one?
Stacking resistors lowers the total resistance which increases the current.
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One would think so, but it is not that way. The formula is
REQ= Resistance equivalent
REQ = R1 * R1 / (R1 + R2)
So it does then just flow through the one with least resistance, not all of them?
I first poured some acetone over it and let it sit for a while. I have no idea if that helped. I then hit it with a heat gun, not a small one for electronics work, a big one more for paint stripping. That worked really well.
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Sorry, but that is over my head. abstract formulas don;t show me anything.
If it ends up where the current only goes through one of them (thus apparantly lowering resistance, instead of adding like I thought was the idea) then it makes sense. but if its flowing through all of them I canât see howâŚ
That I guess is my point. Is it just giving it a alternate path to use, or if it is adding them to be used together?
Sorry Iâm so daft. lol.
2 100ohm resistors stacked(parallel) = 50ohm