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SFT40ās can take a beating. Iām running my L21b with sft40 5000k and a 12A driver.
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Has any one ran one with a FET driver.
Yeah, so far so good.
Yes, 12A FET.
The SFT40 3K transformed that light to something special.
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I probably wouldnāt bother running the 3000k sft40 above 5A, not enough further output to be had for how much heat it produces
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Thatās just not the BLF way though, LOL . The light I put one in is 5.4 amps and heat is negatable. I have to put a couple in some FET lights just to try them.
Iām impressed that the same lights compared, one SFT40 5.4 amps and the other XM-L2 dedomed FET driven over 7 amps. Both lumens are very close, but the throw is better with the SFT40. I had measured the XM-L2 at 160k throw.
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Received Boruit D10, modded with 519A 5000K and 20mm beaded 15deg TIR from Convoy.
This D10 is nowhere as good as ones others have modded. Uneven battery tube thickness, deep groove in the middle of the heatsink shelf below the MCPCB, sharp edges, and every time the button is pressed it takes a second of delay before anything happens. Also the retaining ring is impossible to loosen, so no replacing the driver.
It is a decent light for casual use, but has lost much of its modding potential.
About the TIR: it doesnāt play super well with domed 519A. It makes a fairly rosy beam, but still makes things look very pale and yellowish compared to the same LED through a Carclo 10507. Dark greens are missing. I am yet to encounter a 20m single-emitter TIR that works well with the 519A.
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Thanks for making me curious about the 20mm Tir I use in my SC21 Pro modsā¦ I will try to remember to Opple measure the Tint of the LED with both the reflector and the Tir, the next time I mod one.
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The tint would probably come out quite ok/good, but for reasons unclear to me, the TIR I used seems to take a noticeable chunk of cyan out of the spectrum, resulting in everything having a blue/yellow/grey cast over them. The Carclo 10507, 10508, and 10511 donāt have this issue. I would be curious to see what TIR you are using.
Beaded, 30 Degree, 20mm diam, 3535 footprint
sometimes from yajiamei
sometimes from convoy
Do you have Tint DUV data comparing either of those to a reflector?
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TIR replacement is always a hit or miss. The shape of the optic affects the output color because of the angular tint shift of the emitter, which for 519A domed still has quite a lot. How the optic combines the side emissions into hotspot / corona / spill will affect the beam color quite significantly.
I find deep optics with a central convex lens, which projects the front emission to form part of the hotspot, will give you the best tint with slightly higher CCT and a lot lower DUV. Howeven it has to be either beaded or frosted, otherwise you will see a clear square die projection around the hotspot which is quite distracting.
In contrast shallow optics with flat central area will give you the worst hotspot which is yellow-green and cool spill. Steer away from those.
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I love this light and have made strong to ridiculously forceful efforts to get the MCPCB out and it will not budge. One can see the damage from probes, flat screwdrivers, needle nose pliersā¦
I did solder in a BLF A6 A17DD, so Iām ready for the LED upgrade!
I found this thread for the A6 driver and SFT-40s: BLF A6 A17DD driver okay for SFT-40?
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If you want the MCPCB off, Iād suggest a lot of heat. It could be old, dry thermal compound. Remove the driver and then heat it all up with a heat gun (like a big one for paint stripping) or a torch. If that doesnāt loosen the MCPCB, I bet you could get it hot enough for an emitter swap while still attached to the pill. Just apply the heat underneath.
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Thank you for the images! I suspect the optic would have the same issue with a high CCT 519A. For lower CCTs the tint issue (both tint shift and blue spike) are less pronounced.
No data here, but the TIR gives a beam that is uniform in duv, noticeably rosier than a reflector hotspot and also noticeably yellower than a reflector spill.
We have independently arrived at the same conclusions regarding TIR optics! The size of the central convex lens explains why the 10507 gives better tint than 10508/10511 and 10509, and also why they all have better tint than a larger 20mm single-emitter TIR.
Designing a good TIR is tricky business. For domeless emitters lots of TIRs work well, but for domed high CRI emitters, Carclo is the only one Iāve seen that nails it.
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If you get the pill hot enough to reflow the emitter, then you can just remove the emitter to save it from being burned up, and just keep cranking up heat until the pill is red hot. The PCB will eventually come off. 
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Aside from the other suggestions, try pouring a generous amount of isopropanol over the MCPCB, particularly at the bottom to let it seep through and corrode the thermal adhesive. Earlier today I was able to remove such a thermal-glued MCPCB with little effort from pliers after the IPA soak.
But is it possibleāIām pretty sure Iāve heard somewhere but donāt remember whereāthat XinTD C8ās have MCPCBs that are soldered to the pill instead of thermally glued. In that case applying heat is the only solution.
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