It sure seems like it! I also attempted to push the MCPCB from the driver side.
Take a very close look around/below the boundary of the MCPCBâif you donât see any white/gray stuff, chances are itâs soldered instead of thermally-glued.
I have no experience loosening up such a huge amount of solder on such a thermally conductive surface, and will defer to the experts around here. The only idea I can come up with is to remove the driver+wires+gasket from the pill, and heat the whole pill over a stovetop until the solder melts. There will still be issues afterward, such as an uneven surface left behind, but can probably be taken care of with sandpaper.
I once had a S2+ pill that was very concave in the center, and I ended up filling it with solder and smoothing out the surface afterward, which was not too difficult. But to remove solder is probably harder.
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Another successful transplant. I put a SFT40 5K in a SUPBEAM K40 that was originally modded by Vinh (go figure I bought 2 of these lights on here for $60, one used, the other like new in the case)
I had to use a new centering ring and sand it a few times. The beam and throw are awesome. These LEDs are much easier to focus that the old dedome ones from the past. These lights lights handle heat well, the high mode sits at over 1100 lumens for a long time.
I guess theyâll make fun of me with these Old Relics, like my mostly steel pistols. ( Browning High Power Rules )
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Weird, I have the 519A 5000K in an S2+ with 10 degree TIR from Simon and the tint and beam are very clean. I have also tried the 15, 30 and 45 degree TIRs but settled on the 10 degree since it has the beam profile I prefer.
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Very true!
It is very possible that I am just pickier than most folks when it comes to color renderingâfor example, now I dislike dedomed 519A tint because skin tone looks like a blue-red mush, and all the cyan features disappear.
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My favorite lately are sliced 519As. Domed are usually a little too neutral and somewhat boring to me, dedomed are rosy, and sliced are in-between. 
In the past Iâve found that partially-sliced 519As work wonderfully in the 10508 optic, which produces a smooth beam but have some tint shift. The partial slice somehow gets rid of all the tint shift. Though after getting some SunLike emitters recently, my preference is now firmly domed 519As in 10507 optic with diffusion film. Other optics mess with the tint, and dedomed/sliced seems to miss out on blue/green colors.
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3rd and final swap into this poor Baton 4. First was a 219b on a different mcpcb. But it was aluminum and caused massive tint shift on turbo. After that, I went back to the original mcpcb that came with it, where I put a W5050SQ3 3000k. That bean was pretty ugly. 1/10 would not recommend.
So now we end up where Iâll probably keep it with an SFT40 6000k.
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Decided to mod a TS10SG to XPP 4000K, reflashed with 50% FET Firmware
Results,
225 lumen ceiling at level 130/150 w 2024 firmware
311 lumen Turbo (at 50% FET)
duv 0.0066
lots of artifacts in the spill (waiting for night test)
XPP Modding album
sw45k Modding album
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how do you solder and desolder the main led without cooking the rgb leds?
I just put the whole mcpcb on my hotplate, and lift the main LED off
I dont touch the RGB LEDs, they stay where they are during the reflow process. I just have to make sure not to touch them while the solder is melted
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night shots
The light on the right, TS10SG w XPP 4000K High CRI, seems to throw better (more lux on target) than stock TS10SG Low CRI on left
I would say the TS10SG w XPP 4000K (on right) illuminates the bench better than the SFT25 (on left), And the XPP is High CRI, and shows the wall with richer color
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I took me a while to find a CULNM1 TG. But I finally found it and completed the series.
CSLNM1 TG W1
CULNM1 TG W1.1
CSLPM1 TG W2
CULPM1 TG W2.1
The CSLNM1 TG and CULNM1 TG have 10 degree beaded TiR. The CULNM1 and CULPM1 both have a SMO reflector.
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Today I invented a new technique to reduce lens reflection and increase transmittance of the optic path. I filled the air gap between the TIR front surface and the protect glass with silicone grease.
Since the refractive index of silicone is su much closer to glass than air, it basically removed two reflection surfaces. The increase in output might be small but still better than nothing.
I learned this technique from Canon camera LCD lens. They filled the LCD and glass gap with silicone gel to remove reflections.
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Through pain comes growth. I dropped my one week old SP31V3 on concrete, due to its badly shaped clip got caught on my backpack belt, the second time.
This fall dinged the bezel pretty badly. I was heart broken because I really loved this light. I tried desperately to fix it. I contacted Sofirn to ask for a replacement bezel, and the price including shipping is more than half of what I paid for this light. Which makes it a no go.
I also wanted to buy another identical light to replace it. But itâs just such a shame that a fall could make it look so bad that I need to replace a brand new light.
After a couple of days of reflection, I did what I do best: modification. I took the bezel off, hand sanded the damaged area. But it still looked really ugly. So I made an adapter to put the bezel to a drill so I can rotate it stably.
Using the drill adapter, I sanded the entire front side and the chamfered edge until the damaged area was gone. Then polished it using automotive polishing compound. Then I applied a thin coat of clear lacquer to protect the bare aluminum so it doesnât rub off onto fabric when carrying.
The end result is a shining, stainless look bezel that fits this light very well.
Some say that a light doesnât belong to you until you add some personality to it. This unique SP31V3 can keep being my EDC and Iâm happy again.
I also bent the clip tip inwards so it wonât be pulled out by anything near it again. If you have a light with similarly shaped clip, I suggest you bend the tip so your light wonât suffer the same fate as mine.
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That looks awesome!!! Great job
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Vaseline oils and UV glues show themselves much better. Their refractive index is just between glass and acrylic.
Yes, it is used in many areas. Somewhere on the forum.fonarevka.ru there were even 2 topics about this with measurements of lumens at the output
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