That’s a really cool look FunkyRider86! I think it looks better that way. 
Did you also consider sanding down the green anodization next to the optic? Although I do like how the green looks. Very unique!
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I have many lights with stainless steel bezel and I often have to darken that area using black marker to reduce rim reflection, which in some cases shows bad glaring or artefact on the spill. I thought about sanding the inner rim but then I had to darken it again so I just left it as it is.
One more good thing from this mod is to not be afraid of bezel dings, you could always sand and polish it to make it look good again.
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My other hobby for years surfaced today… speaker building, listening, tweaking, listening, tweaking, enjoying! Multimedia speakers can be great for upgrading, to be used in an office or bedroom for near-field listening. This Logitech X-240 had a very noisy volume control where the satellites would completely cut out so I checked to see if the bass module could work on its own and maybe, connect it to other, separately amplified satellite speakers. It turned out it could. Then, what about a woofer upgrade? Hmm, I had this JBL 4" separates set sitting in the garage and so, verifying that the impedance was the same as the stock driver, I went ahead with the swap. With the JBL’s butyl surrounds, the bass is tighter but with that, I lost a little warmth in the sound. I messed with some audio settings to tune it more to my liking and then I conducted a frequency sweep where the bass became audible at approximately 40Hz. It doesn’t take more than 10 watts per channel to have an enjoyable ‘micro system’ and combined with a blue tooth module, every genre of music is available.
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SC21 Pro mod to sw45k:
top of regulated output, 104 lumens
Pebbled Tir mod looks like this:
top of regulated output was 150 lumens w stock LH351d:
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I like the TIR mixed tint so much more but it also decimates throw.
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agree
I like the blended tint from the Pebbled Tir.
The floody beam is really nice for close range,
like a FWAA or TS10 beam
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Thanks for the info 
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This is a great mod for this light. I put an SFT40 5000k in mine. Huge improvement!!!
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I recently purchased this cheap ‘Battery Capacity Tester’ when it was very cheap for € 4,08 (including shipping); partially out of curiousity but also discharge batteries that I want to get rid off as low as possible. (My current chargers with discharge function won’t go down to 2,5V and also almost all flashlights with LVP cut off above that.)
The annoying thing is that it only has a 18650 holder, while I also want to discharge (or maybe test) 21700 cells and also possible some smaller cells.
I still had a single bay ‘cheap’ charger I got with a Sofirn light (which supports up to unprotected 21700) with a micro-USB port, that I never used. I managed to crack it open without all too much damage.
I used my hot air soldering station to remove all SMD components, just to make sure that none of the components would interfere or act weird. I also used a Dremel tool to grind off some PCB traces (top and bottom), to give the + and - terminal a bit more seperation, since I would have no use for those traces anyway.
They don’t look pretty, but that was never the goal anyway.
I then soldered some 16AWG leads onto the postive and negative terminals. (I miscalculated a bit and they turned out a bit short, but in the end, they where still (just) long enough fortunately.)
Then I grinded some holes in the top of the battery holder/slot, to tightly fit the wires and feed them outside. (In the mean time I also installed the sliding negative tab and reconnected the spring.)
After that I soldered the wires onto the PCB, which has an extra open ‘+’ and ‘-’ hole on the top and bottom of the 18650 battery holder.
I temporarely taped the battery carrier/slot close, to test if everything worked well, before eventually glueing the battery holder shut again, with this being the end result:
It might not be the most accurate ‘capacity tester’, but that was never my goal. For now it will serve as a device to discharge batteries that I want to discard, to the lowest level I could, but since the termination voltage is selectable, it could also help to discharge cells to a proper storage level.
And instead of it only supporting 18650 batteries, it now supports 16340’s up to (unprotected) 21700 cells!
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You don’t need those intelligent circuits to prepare a battery for disposal. All you need are alligator clips to attach a battery directly to the resistor which is 4 ohms (2×8 ohms in parallel). That’s exactly how this device does discharge testing, there’s no CC logic, at the begining the current is slightly higher than 1A (e.g. 4.16V ÷ 4R = 1.04A) and at the end it’s much lower (e.g. 2.6V ÷ 4R = 0.65A). So you don’t risk anything when attaching the battery directly to resistor and leaving it overnight.
EDIT: I think it’s a good idea to check the correct polarity on the resistor before doing the written above.
Since you have other chargers that measure capacity, what percentage would you say this cheap one is off by?
I changed the pocket clip to a gold one on my i3t 2 friendship 2024. Broke a sweat doing that.
I know, it was basicly an impulse buy because it was so cheap now. The converted battery charger was just something ‘fun’ to do when I was bored.
So far I’ve not done much capacity testing with it. I only tested a 1000mA 14500 with it, which I tested two weeks ago on my Opus BT-C3100 (@ 500mA discharge) and had a 1037mA reading, even though the Opus terminates at 3,0V I believe. (My Opus might test a bit high on capacity, I think.)
On this tester I tested it down to 2,8V and it gave 974mA. So less than the Opus, but not sure which one is closer to the actual capacity.
This cheap tester is more of a novelty I think, also because you can’t select discharge current and also because it doesn’t do a Constant Current discharge, as @Qubeet stated a couple of posts above.
I would rather go for a decent charger with capacity testing build in, or, if you want a seperate/dedicated (and more versatile) capacity tester, go for something like the Atorch DL24, which can be found ‘relatively cheap’ on Aliexpress from time to time.
Nothing too exciting, but put together a golden S2+ with a sliced 3500K 519A and a buck driver. 
I always check the pill for flatness and received another one that was concave. So I pounded it out to make it more flat.
I reflowed and sliced the LED down to 1.2mm.
I also added a yellowish green lighted switch. I reduced the current down to 0.14mA (at 4.1V) and put some yellow film over the green LEDs.
The beam is really nice (I like these KD LED gaskets) and the tint, as you would expect, is slightly rosy.
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a hammer seems like a great solution to concaved pill lol. I just got bunch of colored S2+ hosts and your tip is just what I needed to check and fix them.
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It’s strange since most of the pills I’ve gotten over the years are perfectly flat, but occasionally they are not. I’ve posted about this years ago, but it didn’t get much traction:
Convoy S2+ Pill Issue - Shelf Not Flat
It doesn’t take much effort to correct the pills, but I assume a flatter pill is better for thermal conductivity regardless of how much thermal paste is used to fill the gap.
Hopefully all of yours will be good.
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SP36 Pro
I took out the ugly! (SST40 5000k)
And dropped in the pretty! (SFT40 5000k)
I’m ok with the tulip pattern this gives. It doesn’t bother me.
But man! That driver is a PITA to get out!
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Looks great! A part of me wants to leave it as is with the less than desirable tint but there are so many better 5050 emitters to choose from. Do you have a suggested guide that might be able to convince me to tackle this project?
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