Thanks! I’ll definitely get that pen.
It is a bit rosy. DUV is. -0.0094. Which is much better than the +0.0092 it was with the stock LED.
Here’s a pic of it next to your beloved SW45. (SW45 on left.) Color is probably a bit off. But you know what the SW45 looks like. So hopefully you can judge from there.
thank you!
was that w Opple 3, or Opple 4?
I ask because Opple 3 reads lower (and I think closer to accurate):
I have the Opple 4
Hi fellows,
Less than 2 years in this hobby, but decided 2025 i’ll start with modding.
You guys keep posting cool mods and as i love to learn new skills, i just had to go this route too ^^
I am still waiting for my soldering tools to arrive: pine64 pinecil, hot plate, hot station and the needed accessories to start properly.
But no need of those to start easily, dedoming or slicing is a more or less easy step, depending the light.
_ First went with dedoming my lanapples 519a 4000k, and i now see what people call rosy tint
(Pic 2: compare to 519a 4000k domed):
_ Naturally I quicky done the same to two of my pineapple mini 519a of different cct, just to see.
_ Sadly one of them wasn’t à 519a 
Oopsy … (but losing is learning they say ^^ )
_ To follow, my first real modern light bought thanks of r/flashlight users, is a skilhunt h300, i went for the xhp50.2 ra90, but wasn’t lucky with the tint at all, so let’s slice it.
It ends up still probably above BBL, with still some tint shift, but it is better.
Maybe one day, i’ll try to slice a bit more, maybe.
Next bad tinted light is another skilhunt, and another xhp lol
M300 v1 with xhp35hd.
Not sure it did change much, maybe a bit less shift 
Do you think i could install another mcpcb with for example sft70 (it is 12v right ?)
Can’t wait to get the soldering stuff, and start reflow, and other mods.
Thanks everyone for the inspiration !!!
Happy Modding Year 2025 
Congrats on your first mods!
I’ve had my best luck slicing by removing the MCPCB and using two brad nails (or whatever you have available) of the desired height as guides for the razor. That way you can get a nice low and even slice. So perhaps try that after your equipment arrives. Just be aware slicing can fail and tear off part of the dome (but soon you’ll be able to swap leds).
I don’t have the M300 but the SFT 70 is quite a big larger, so I’d wonder if it can fit in the reflector opening. If not, maybe try to source a TIR.
I don’t own one but I’m pretty sure it’s 6v.
It is 6V with a regular 5050 MCPCB but it could be configured to work with 12V
Page 11
Hey thank you.
I’ll try slicing more on the h300 when the solder iron arrive.
i’ll let the m300 like this sofar, cause when i turn on the light, it is a bit blue for a second before getting white, so i won’t slice more than that haha.
Thanks for the link … 
sounds like a fun project
With the XHP.**.2 emitters, due to the over-poured phosphor, slicing alone is not enough to fix the tint. You need to also “dice” it, i.e., remove the excess phosphor surrounding the blue-emitting dies. Once you do that, the tint can be super clean, and you get more throw too. More info: XHP70.2 dedoming pictures and VIDEO added
Oh man big big thanks,
1st time i hear about / see the “dicing method”
Well, i’ll wait for my soldering kit and try this out !
Thanks again 
Sofirn HS40. I’ve tried several different LEDs in this light and they all have horrible tint-shifted beams. I think it must be due to the shallow, wide reflector. DC fix didn’t even help much. I had this idea for a while now, but today I finally swapped-in a triple from a TS10 (4000K) that I had spare due to converting it to a single.
The driver wires barely reached the solder points. I ended up sloppily sanding off some of the diameter from the optic to make it fit, I then used the stock lens on top (with some minus green in-between). Once it was assembled, I realized it would have made more sense to not use the stock lens and instead raise up the MCPCB with a copper spacer. This way I wouldn’t have had to shave the optic. Fortunately the beam looks fine.
I’m very happy with the light now and will start using it.
Is anyone selling TS10 3535 boards these days? I’d like to grab a few for use in other lights.
yes, Zwerglein02, he may also have spare TS10 drivers (with full length wires)
detailed mcpcb wiring pics at the bottom of this album
Swapped LEDs in a Convoy S21D, from 219B SW45K to FFL351A 1800K. I wanted a very warm, neutral/negative DUV light with an efficient driver and relatively high output, at least higher than what four E17As can do.
The reflow went well, and the 12 group mode spacing fits. At 8 amps the buck driver supplies enough for the LEDs to be bright, without the light heating up too fast.
I got lucky and finally found a 2019 Jetbeam RRT01 without the switch. I always wanted it to be a triple, but not like the RRT03, which isn’t infinitely variable. Adding longer driver wires was a real pain since this is a two stage driver, but thankfully, even after accidentally desoldering several random components, I was able to put it all back together. I made a spacer from copper washers and used an mtnelectronics triple mcpcb along with a standard triple optic and now it works great!
I put an 1850K FFL351A in a Sofirn SP10v3 I had lying around. I like it! I might build something bigger with several emitters & a buck or boost driver for room lighting at some point.
Very nice! I’ve not seen a deal on the SP10 recently else I’d do the same. I really like them as a modding platform, the 14500 format means they’re small and easy to store so okay for rare use, the driver is okay without flashing and they take standard 3535 footprint LEDs.
I’m under the impression that fireflies is the only place to get these things, it’s a shame Simon doesn’t offer them as an option in some of his lights.
Did this one last night. Not so much at a mod, but a fix.
I somehow managed to jack up one of the UV LEDs in my DW4 2 channel.
So I swapped out the 3w UV LEDs for a couple of 5w UV’s. There’s definitely a difference. But I wouldn’t call it a drastic difference.
Tonight I finished modding a light for my youngest son(22yrs old).
He wanted a Samsung LH351D 5000K and a 3 or 4 mode driver. I got him the 5A buck driver and set it to group10.
He likes the SS bezel look of the S3 but wanted the Black Convoy clip on clip.
I used a S2+ battery tube since the S3 battery tube doesn’t have the cutout for the clip on clip.
He also wanted the metal button and a Green illuminated tailcap with LVP.
I modified(Sanded and Dremeled) the clear plastic adapter so I could use @gcharts LVP-CC illuminated tailcap.
Stock on the Left, modified on the right:
Here is the tailcap installed and lit up:
Hell yeah! Someone who knows what they want and it’s doable. You feel like the reigning light guy… 
