Can you see it now? For me it works...
Sorry, i was being funny, i meant they are huge. Browsing on phone.
Even on a PC (15.6ā display) it very large. Even with the browser at full screen I need to scroll to see the full width. There is lots of white / print space taken by the left sidebars inthe way the forum is setup to display. an 800 wide image displays better for many people. Mobile devices are the real problem when viewing pictures.
Perfect. Nice mod.
I see...sorry for not getting the joke :)
Hope it's fixed now :)
Thatās great; much easier to see (PC)
Gorgeous pic!!
I have a problem, I can post more pictures later if needed.
I have a Shadow JM30 Iām trying to mod. It has a retaining ring held in with Torx screws instead of threading in
Both screws had threadlock on them. One came out pretty easily, the other did not. Actually, the tip of my torx bit twisted and broke off in the screw. I tried prying it out but it was completely flush, so I tried drill it. Well my torx bit was cheap metal but the screw is not, so my bits just walk off the screw head and dig into the brass ring. I really donāt want to damage stuff too much so that I still have a reliable way to mount the driver later.
Iāve considered buying a drill press to help me out, but even when I can hold my drill directly centered on the screw it just doesnāt make any progress.
Any tips?
JB Weld
Seriously, glue a drill bit to the screw, let it set up, then try removing it. If you can get the broken bit out first, all the better.
A diamond bit in a dremel can go through the broken torx bit, if thatās necessary, and then an extractor tool can be hammered into the screw and remove it this way. The extractor bit has teeth that cut into the screw when twisting in reverse, so it should grab the screw and remove it, that is, unless the head breaks off the screw due to the threadlock.
Thereās a way, it just might not be very easy. Worse comes to worse use an end mill bit and remove the head of the screw, then drill and tap a new hole when putting it back together, to either side of the damaged one.
i donāt really understand the part about gluing a drill bit.
I do have extractor bits, but theres nothing to grab onto. Iāll have to post a picture my my light when I get home. Itās essentially down to a very smooth round crater, and the bit just spins there without grabbing anything. Maybe thereās a different type of bit I need?
The Torx bit was, of course, hardened. In part thatās why it broke. So it might take a diamond bit on a Dremel to clear out that Torx tip and then you can use the extractor.
I got this cordless screw driver out of the recycle bin. No charger and it is a NiCad.
Very lightly used!
I will use my trusty Li-Ion āSTPā Li-Ion screw driver to open her up
That battery pack is a 3S Sub-C, a single 18650 is a good replacement.
So I removed the old battery, it was glued in place and hot glued a Samsung 20Q I got out of the recycle bin. It came from a brand new Hoover Vacuum Cleaner battery pack. Then I hot glued the cell and the little 99 cent charging board in place.
Put her back together and done.
Charging port sort of looks OK, If I spent a little more time on it I could have done better.
But it works! And has more torque than the STP, itās just not as convenient to use.
Just got my TM16 put back together. I intended to use XP-L W2 emitters, but have had issues getting the correct ones and am in the midst of straightening that out. So, wanting to do something today and finding I had 4 XHP-35 N4 1D emitters, I set out to put them in the TM16.
All told, it was quite a chore. I used 26mm MaxToch mcpcbās, shaped them somewhat like a guitar pick, got em installed and itās making
5.556 lumens
311.54
707.25
1966.5
4943.85
About to get a lux readingā¦
Parallel with the stock driver?
Well crud. Ended up actually slightly less throw than the stock XM-L2 emitters, at 102.75Kcd. Lumens is highter, cells were at 4.12V, charging them to see if that matters.
I have 18ga leads coming up from the driver, then 20ga Teflon leads joining the 4 independent mcpcbs. Didnāt hook up the thermal step down wires, weāll see how that works out.
Yeah, I measured the stock XM-L2s at 13.57V, 2.95A, so I just wired it parallel on the 12V emitters. Itās probably not pushing them hard enough, didnāt remeasure after building it back up.
Time to invest in a couple carbide tipped drills PD!
PD, by bridging the R010 sense resistor with an 000 resistor, Iām now seeing 6969 lumens and 146.75Kcd for 766.16M throw. 
That should be about 1742 lumens each, so itās right in the sweet spot for the XHP-35 N4 1D emitter. Iāll take it! 
That sounds very nice Dale, did anything happen to the mode spacing after bridging the resistor?
I plan to to that with my TM16GT without touching the LEDs, just want to increase current a bit.
Will, they use an proprietary square aluminum mcpcb for the 4 XM-L2ās, I donāt know at what point bumping output would be affected by that aluminum board. Mine had a NW emitter that was more orange than I care for, had thought about just swapping those stock XM-L2ās for a higher binned more white version. When I got the notion to dig in, I didnāt have any XM-L2ās on hand, had XP-L W2ās and V6ās but didnāt figure Iād gain a lot with either of those, even putting them on copper. I found that I had 4 XHP-35ās and so I measured out the voltage at the board, and amperage, also at the emitter, found it was providing some 13.57V and 2.95A so I realized that would be pretty straight forward with parallel XHP-35ās. Worked out pretty nice. Gained almost 1000 lumens without a power bump even. (~4900 lumens)
Iāll check all the modes and get a comparison with how it acted stock, see if the different levels were adversely affected. I know moon is still very low, thereās a significant jump to the next level. Iāll get some numbersā¦