Lupine Piko X2, old model with 1200lm. I do not like the UI very much and it gets very hot for the brightness, but it is pefectly balanced on the head, and I can run for hours without it ever bothering me. Not even a Sofirn HS10 (16340) reaches that level of long-term comfort and stability on my head.
Having the battery pack on the back of the head is amazing.
I gotta upgrade it with a proper driver and some modern and not 15 years old LEDs some day.
What I have been doing is two Armytek Wizard Nichias: one front, one back, for perfect balance. Two is one, one is none 
Plus you get perfect balance. If battery goes low in one I just rotate the setup and Iām good to go.
Throw some minus green over it. A must for any sofirn/wurkkos headlamp with a 5000k lh351d
I find the ultralight old Nitecore NU25 (2017) with shock cord instead of band to be near perfect āpersonalā headlamp.
Tiny ~40 g total, ~400 lm/2000 cd turbo, white and red 1 lm moonlights, high and warning red as well, high CRI diffused working light, lock, high intensity beacon, battery indicator, rechargable ~350 lmĆh battery.
One salient feature of this headlamp is the regulation designed for safety/longevity: lower modes have constant output and High/Turbo gradually step down - in all cases giving you hours of useful light no matter which mode you start with. Lasts 1 week on low.
Itās been discontinued, and Iām not so keen on its modernised āupgradeā under the same name.
Hear me outā¦Q8 plus headlamp.
Take the top half off a Q8 plus, solder some wires to the positive and negative brass rings, run those to an external battery pack in your pocket or wherever, then use the tripod screw hole and a headband with a tiny aluminum plate up front with a bolt sticking out or something, still working out the details on that but Iāll figure something out, and boom- the most budgetlight headlamp that will ever exist.
Iām seriously considering doing this and Iām not kidding and you canāt stop meā¦ Unless you can think of a better way to make a 10,000+ lumen headlamp with anduril for less than what a q8 plus cost
I have some 5000K 519Aās coming from Wurkkos themselve and if they are as nice of a neutral/clean tint as the one they used in the WK03 I recently bought, I will probably swap the LH351D out for a 519A.
I just did a check between the LEDās that are currently in it (so the SST-20 and the LH351D in 5000K) and the LH351D is noticably greener than the SST-20 (which has a more blue tint over it in comparisson). Given the more āthrowyā characteristics of the SST-20 and the fact that I currently use the HD15 mainly for up close work (so only with the wide angle LED/TIR), I will probably leave in the SST-20 and only swap the 351D.
My favorite is the recently discontinued Thrunite TH20.
I own several Zebra, Nitecore, Skilhunt headlamps.
A TH20 is what seems to be carried. This one was gifted to a coworker, stuffed with a discount store alka~leak and left under a rooftop chill water condenser for a few months. 
Worst leak in a flashlight that Iāve seen. I cleaned it, bead blasted to be sure, repaired the PCB, replaced the emitter and spring,recoated the reflector and installed a sapphire lens and pocket clip.
Got a link?
How loosely?
Iāve yet to see any ConvoyI want, but a Headlamp is intriguing.
If anyone wants a headlamp recommendation, this is the guy to ask.
Thereās a post in the Convoy thread (from Nov 1st, 2023) about the headlight.
Thatās about all I know about this headlight. 
Thatās great you were able to salvage that TH20. Theyāre so well made. What emitter are you running in it? Stock driver?
Mine is running a Nichia 219B R9050 sw30. Very warm. Looks like itās incandescent. Rather anemic with NiMH, but a nice little boost with 14500. I like to use it as a task light. I wish the UI had an option for stepped ramping. Smooth ramping down is a good pace, but ramping up is a bit slow.
SOS is pretty much a useless mode, for a vast majority of people. Wouldāve made more sense if Thrunite had chosen beacon instead.
Gary, it is a very slow ramp! But itās consistent. I often work around HVAC equipment thatās either disgustingly filthy or super reflective. At my age, late 50ās, the bounce back is very distracting on the reflective surfaces. The variable brightness control comes in surprisingly handy .
Iām running a 4k SST-20 for a bit of reach out of the shallow reflector. Being a infinitely variable engine, itās usually a losing trade off, Iām impressed by the runtime.
New poster
HC50 nitecore
Had a lower model version in the past, use it for work almost 100%
With other nitecore torches as an EDC on the keyring and a couple of other nitecore torches.
Nice and bright for close up reading of site plans and good illumination of plantrooms
Itās a pleasure to know you, Steve66!
Hey Neon,
There is of course the added advantage of a slow ramp allowing easier precision on desired brightness. And this driver does seem to be efficient. The best 14500 I have is 1100 mAh. But I have some NiMH that are 2300 mAh. And the brightness trade-off isnāt really huge, so itās such a great light to have in that respectāfantastic runtime on a single cell, of this small size.
A 1100mAh 3.6V li-ion cell is about 3300mAh 1.2V NiMH. (Convert to Wh for an apples to apples comparison)
I canāt believe I bought more.
Wurkkos HD15 4000k x4
Armytek Wizard C2 Limited Edition 3000k from Poland
Armytek Wizard C2 Pro nichia 3000k from Killzoneflashlights. com
Armytek Wizard C2 WG (white/Green) for bugs
Armytek Wizard C2 Pro warm
Armytek Wizard C2 Pro Max sand.
One hd15 was given away, one is now in the wifeās vehicle, one is in my vehicle, and one is in the house.
Armytek does āwide smooth beamā better than probably anybody. A great clip and tough as nails.
The one from Poland is on the nightstand and used every night.
The pro nichia 3000k from killzone is my favorite and I carry it every day. The pro models have plenty of modes and no matter where you turn it off you can turn it on in firefly, medium (main) or turbo.
My favorite headlamp is the Zebralight H600 mk II. I like its weight, sustained high intensity output, and the hot spot beam to see further. I use it for MTB and skimo.
For hiking, running and trail-running, I prefer the Skilhunt H300R XHP50.3 . Its beam is wider, and I like the colour tint.
As cheaper headlamps, I like the Boruit D10 and D20 (zoomie). Never had a problem with them, even in very cold conditions.
Weāre very glad to have you here, Oirlau!
So basically are you saying if I run an LED flashlight with a 14500 at a modest intensity that is capable of being achieved with a NiMH, Itāll actually run longer despite the rated mAh differences?