What Legoes with What?

Astrolux S41 and bare BLF A6 lego perfectly fine with each other. I can interchange heads, long or short tubes and switches as I want. Both lights work in any combination!

Copied from Group buy: Jaxman Z1 host [THREAD CLOSED BY ADMIN]

I was recently made aware by a fellow member that there is actually one component of the Jaxman Z1 that will lego with the Cometa. As I received a Jaxman Z1 a couple of days ago, I can now verify the information is 100% true. The component legos perfectly… :+1:

The component would be ………………………………………. the lens cap. :person_facepalming:

The lens swaps too. I’m actually running the Z1 lens on my Cometa, because I have the old XP-G2 de-domed pulling 5.65 amps and it boosted the LUX up a bit. They fit each other better, no moving the lens around to get it on center. Weird!

:+1: Thanks, I was unaware of that. Good info…….

Cross-reference for discussion elsewhere (Reddit’s flashlight forum)
Reddit summaries are sometimes useful when people haven’t been ‘through the wars’ as things developed and are wondering “what legos with what”
Brief excerpt follows; more at the original page of course

EE hosts are at: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/1735126/search?origin=y&SearchText=host

And I”m wondering if there are triple spacers and optics made or that happen to fit them.

xref for discussion at BLF: Eagle Eye X6 black flashlight host on AliExpress

Astrolux SC/Ultrafire C3 SS (1st version, 93mm).

LOL, and so it does, not very useful perhaps, but a great find! :smiley:

Skilhunt DS16 legos with Manker E14 / Astrolight S41. The threads where the head and body tube match and are interchangeable.

Note however that the skilhunt is an e-switch light and lacks a tailcap switch, so the usefulness of legoing with the astrolight except for an advanced modder, is pretty much nil.

On the other hand, if you have the astrolight you can get 18650 support using the Manker 18650 tube. Note however that the Manker’s o-ring won’t be covered.

Ordered both the SS and AL versions of the Ultrafire C3 from DX to see if they both fit the x5.

Cross-reference for mention of various Convoy lights:

Ordered done flashlights from DX on 7/11, the shipment was broken up into 3 separate packages and the first of them arrive on Friday 7/22 a new record for them. Jolly good show! In this package were a couple cheap AA lights. A Sipik SK68 and an Ultrafire C3. I was particularly interested in the C3 as I had heard a version of it would Lego with my copper X5 and this I can happily confirm. Also of interest is that those cheap no name cree AA lights from eBay also Lego with the SK 68, the tail caps are interchangeable and the tubes thread together so you can easily make an xhp50 zoomie.

Yup fits… need to add a wire ring behind the driver retainer for it to make contact.



That’s the SS version, right? I’ve one of those in the order as well. Is that a recent purchase? Mine works without a wire.

It is the SS, bought about a year ago. Fits well and looks pretty good. It is the 93mm version.

I would not fire it up with the stock C3 switch, that light will draw way to much current for that switch!

My SS C3 from DX came yesterday and it does indeed fit the copper X5 very well and works just fine. Although the longer threading of the X5 tube does not go all the way into the head or tail of the C3.

Hey Matt, the switch in the SS C3 is a type of Omten 1288 with a different ground connection. I suspect that given the extra number of mechanical contacts in the arrangement that higher currents will cause multiple voltage drops but the switch itself should be fine. Ultrafire seems to be fond of placing the switch in a pill and this one is much better made than the 501/502 versions and has a threaded cap on the button side. On mine this was loose causing erratic behavior but once tightened it works just fine. I did also change the button cover from the ill fitting, hard to access, concave cover to a standard convex one. Neither would tail stand but at least it’s convenient to operate now. A 1 mm oring inserted before the button cover could fix that but only if the tube threads were likewise shortened or the tail cap would not fully screw on.

Rufusbduck, glad you pointed that out! I should have referred to the tailcap. I did melt one of them with a FET driver and lithium ion batteries… I did restore it to service and it still lives. I like the little C3 SS.

Fwiw, I think it might be possible to change the switch to a more standard switch on pcb arrangement but it would probably also require shortening of the tube threads to gain space for the pcb and cannibalizing the aluminum module for a retaining ring. Probably not worth it in an SS host with limited heat capacity but if you’re modding it to switch melting levels you might consider it.