Use the search box to search for "laser guru", it's all in that thread. I have not posted anythj.g about the driver yet, but can when I get home tonight
Received my first Nichia from Hank IOS a few days ago, just got time to install the emitter. This is my first Nichia 219B light because my L10 is still at post office. Too lazy to pick up. I really like the tint of this emitter!
Inside this light/host
My Ultrafire F13s came in today… finally.
NobleX13 holy crap after all this time?
Yep. I don’t think I ordered as early as you; mine was placed on June 9th. That makes 38 days by my count. Talk about slow boat…
I got my largest digikey order ever yesterday (which included some parts I’ll be shipping to Djozz), its always fun to sort threw them. Also got 2 6m packs of 18AWG silicone wire from I.O.
[iphone pana-pic, if it doesnt display right on your screens let me know)
some of those parts were my XP-E2 colors I was waiting on, I had this host built with warhawk’s driver (the blue one with royal blue XT-E was already complete) so I got one of the green emitters in the green host, today I’ll be building the red one and I’ll also be putting a green XP-E into my other green host but with factory driver so it can run on an AA, it’ll be the new light that’s left in my greenhouse for checking on plants at light (plants dont sense green light, its like its still darkness to them)
For some reason the FL of the XT-E works with the SK68 when on a noctigon but not the XP-E2’s so I’ve gotta mod this green one and the red one to allow the head to move out slightly more. I will be using these 3 lights to take a really cool photo that’ll be my new business card design.
Also got the new white XP-E2 o replace the one witha broken bond with in my SK98 and its doing 84kcd now! (up from ~60 with the broken one)
(Yes I’ve became sort’a obsessed with RGB lights recently but thats cause I pretty well conquered white lights, gotta do something exciting and with 3 young kids and living in the city I really dont want to step up to lasers just yet)
Got a huge box of stuff from my electrical engineering professor (ret. from BGSU) uncle sent me, I’ll go threw it later but for now the biggest thing was this 700w resistor!
I like the idea of coloured sk68 :bigsmile:
Which resistance has this resistor?
one thing makes me really curious: why do you need a green light for the greenhouse? Do you have some hyperactive plant(from your other uncle which works on the nuclear power plant) which will instantly will grew up to the ceiling if you hit it with some light…
Here’s the other stuff from the box…
These are to attempt to build a battery tab welder
This is a battery tester my uncle built for one or 2s Li-ion’s, each switch adds another 1.5ohm 50w resistor.
And these are a bunch of random larger resistors for some testing I have I get to.
He also sent me a bunch of pic’s of his battery testing setup, he’s currently testing some Li-ion/lead acid hybrid batteries for someone on the auto industry from Detroit (he cant say who and I can’t post any of the pic’s but it’s an impressive operation. Oh and he’s retired, this is all hobby work for him (tho he gets compensated).
Lol nothing that cool, the kids do a lot of heirloom stuff for 4H and a good amount of heirloom plants are photodependent (i.e. depend on the ratio of night/day to determine grow or fruit, most new hybrid’s loose their photodependency), We dont have any streetlights on out street and we dont run any sort of outdoor security/area lighting cause the plants are that sensitive that at the end of the summer when they need to switch over to fruiting just a small amount of ambient light can prevent that. Now its highly unlikely a flashlight would mess with them any but [green] plants cant see green light and since LED’s are narrow band lighting and contain no other wavelengths and all the green wavelength is reflected back its like there’s no light at all. Its way overkill for the kids 4H but it was more for them than the garden (now maybe if I grew another kind of plants in my basement it would be needed but I have no idea about that lol)
$7 headlamp from myled, Olight R40, Olight S80, Olight i3s
The shock of my life..
I just received the Ultrafire M51 MTG2, and wanted to do some shots with my DSLR, on my cheapy cheapy tripod, when the camera just fell off.. and this as the result.
my hands are still shaking...
fortunately its only the UV filter... B+W 77E..could be worse.
So filters ARE good for something :bigsmile:
The built green and blue one from tonight:
Recent arrivals include SolarStorm T3 and T4 lights. Very bright for their size and price but very cold color temperature LEDs. Per FastTech in the 8000-8500 degrees K range. Blue visible in the outer corona in a ceiling bounce check.
FandyFire Warrior YL-U2 is the latest arrival. Not the latest light but a nice three 18650 soupcan light with variable intensity. Just wish that the variable intensity went lower than it does.
I also have a FandyFire Darth and a Solarstorm SP03 on the way. Hopefully both will be here next week. Again lights which have been out for a while but I finally decided to get them.
Got a Convoy S2 and S5 hosts, Nanjg 105 2.8A drivers and neutral white XM-L2’s for them. Got them replacement coated glass lens because I don’t like the cheap default glass. Built the S2 for now, very pleased how it turned out. Used 22AWG silicone coated wires. How do you guys secure the 17 mm driver on the back of the pill, I tried soldering and sorta failed, the pill sucks the heat right out. I guess I’ll have to try again.
My first build and I love it.
Someone said a VERY hot soldering iron, a blob of solder, a good amount of flux and quickly dab it, otherwise the pill does suck the heat out
On my S2 triple XP-G2 build I had to solder a tiny bead all the way around the pill to make sure the solder sticks
P.S. get the hobby file and scuff the spot where you want the solder to bond right before you solder it (sometimes the corrosion won’t let the solder stick 
)
3 OSHPark orders-
6 17dd V1.0 (new C1 location w/o gate resistors)
6 Wight’s v07 ATTiny to PIC adapters for putting 13A on LD-29
3 7135 testers
I got me an old fashioned 60 watt plumbers iron with a big flat tip for 10 euro, to do this on my p60 builds. no flux needed….
i tin the edge and round the pill on several places, before i put my led and driver in (it will melt driver and led probably if done when they are already in the pill) , after it cooled down, the led and driver go in, and i can put a little blob of solder with my 40 watts electronic fine tip iron from the driver to the edge of the pill.
Just a tip:
On my convoy s2 build, i did use a file to make 2 places i can set my tweezers in to screw the pill down, because i used an 8x7135 i couldnt use the retainer ring. the pill is held down by the force