NiWalker ET2 v2 MiniMax — nobody seems to make a flashlight quite like this one. NiWalker makes a larger one for 18650 cells, plus one with interchangeable emitter modules. This is a stubby 18350 that also takes 20350 cells. Two different emitter tints, one being a single reflector and the other a triple TIR. WEIRD!
Lumintop Geek — doesn’t get much weirder than this one. Not only 2 sets of emitters, where one is a pebbled single TIR with cool tint and the other a side mounted quintuple 5mm array of warm LED’s, it also has a multicolored LED status indicator strip. The UI isn’t intuitive, but you get used to it. Easy to stand. Advantages of forward emitter and side emitter. Wonderful bedside light.
Surefire Kroma - Aspherical lens for the white emitter, then a ring of LED’s for red or blue. Detended ring selector and non-clicky tail control—has momentary or full on by twisting tail switch. VERY weird.
RovyVon Aurora A8 - tiny thing, smaller than most men’s pinky fingers. Pretty bright forward white emitter, though noticeable PWM at low modes. Blue, red, and yellow side emitters for dazzling flashy uses (I used the yellow flasher while kayaking at night for easy spotting—was bright enough to illuminate nearby floating buoys). No user replaceable battery, but charges quickly.
Zebralight H52F - functionally it’s not weird, but the design certainly is with it’s fully body ribbing. It’s really quite a work of art when you give it a close examination. While no knurling, the ribbing does make for a grippy light. Frosty lens is very spilly. If only it wasn’t such a cold tint… too cumbersome to change LED.
I have a brand new Surefire Hellfighter with IR filter and a custom connector adapter to XT60 to run on 3S cell or other 12V sources, It’s not weird or crazy expensive, just a bit rare.
Another weird light I have is a Sinner Custom Copper tri-edc which is almost a prototype, with brass switch, with no o-ring, no logo, no front bezel chamfer, less than perfect fitment, and extremely tight battery tube diameter. Built many years ago with dedomed XP-L and a FET driver (no 7135, just fet). Still kicks ass.
Its a discontinued Renogy Phoenix 100 but you can probably find some floating around from third party sellers.
Also there are competitors, i think its Ravpower that has something similar and there are probably others.
This was originally a Stanley clamplight with an xpe emitter, and ridiculously large “relector” that made no reflections of the emitter.
I cut the backside off and then epoxied or screwed together the following: a large aluminum heatsink, 2 different color temp 40w? Cobs and their included reflectors, a 120v to 12v power supply, a 12v driver and 2 ipx rated (?) computer fans. I completely potted the driver for protection from bumps and water.
I think the emitters are in parallel, I don’t remember. I think I sized the driver for 80% rated, I should have done 120, but it has lasted many years and is bright enough.
No switch, no modes,. The wall plug is it.
Really I guess the only Stanley part left is the clamp and head plastic.
Edit, forgot a photo.
Did a quick search, seems like the original.
Mostly used for painting walls, literally. I don’t think it is high CRI, but you can see where you have painted white on white well enough.
The point is, it clamps on a ladder or rafter well and the head rotates all around and changes angles.
The flashlight is cool white, and if I remember right, has a fair amount of tint-shift. It sits in the glovebox, so far yet to be used. The Convoy S2+ I already had for use in the car is always the go-to choice for a light instead.
It appears to be glued together, and I haven’t been motivated enough to risk destroying it in an effort to swap the emitter.
On a positive note, it is pretty compact, and would be reasonably convenient if I needed a powerbank.
My concern is that the battery is toast. If stored fully charged for long periods the capacity loss is going to happen fast.
Also if you have hot summers the days of heat soaking are also destroying the battery.
I only store NiMH in the car full time.
Yeah, it’s a very innovative design. The ET3 comes in a 21700 compatible body tube. From what I’ve come to understand, the optic is a Carclo. Which means the GITD inserts made for the FW3A should fit. I’m not quite sure what tool to get for removing the bezel in such a way as to not scratch it. That’s necessary to do in order to access the optic.
I wanted to put a pic of Charlton Heston screaming “damn you” from Planet of the Apes, but it’s too much trouble.
Instead I’ll say “thank you” to Xevious for a weird light thread and “thanks, but darn it! another light” to MascaratumB for posting that G20. Sure don’t need one but looks like a fun light to mess with.
if you have questions, ask away