I’ve decided to keep mine in the tube ‘USB side-up’ for easier access to the charging port, i don’t need to take the carrier out to get to it this way. If you are able to do this the spring is under less pressure so may be less likely to compress to the point where neither side will work. It may make no difference though if it is deforming due to heat rather than just settling down.
That’s a generous offer Given you have more intimate knowledge of the carrier than i do, is it easy to dismantle and do you see a way to extend the centre column at the USB end?
Just had it mind that it would be easier all round if Cochise could mail just the centre column for you to solder a button onto (for example) so that the contact point is at the same height on both sides of the carrier. I don’t know enough to know at which point this idea falls down though.
For example, if the spring is going to deform no matter what then it is the spring that needs attention, adjusting the centre colunmn will make no difference.
The recessed center column nut is not the problem - it's the spring, so best way to fix it is adding a bypass. If the spring is too deformed, I'd look at replacing it as well, but not sure if I have anything quality in that size and same stiffness - might, but not sure. If a got a "Blue" spring that fits, definitely would use it -- we know these springs well (https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/51885, https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/54402, https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/56987). I think I have a supply of every size he has sold.
It's interesting though the WT90 stock driver springs looks very similar to the silver coated BeCu springs Blue sells.
Tom E. Modded carrier on LEFT.He swapped for mine because he is a nice guy and wanted to help eliminate the parasitic drain I was having. and I am sure he will make the swapped one better.
Besides bypass he disabled the USB to help eliminate parasitic drain,Used 20AWG wires to improve inside circuitry ,Lubed posts and screws with NO OX ID and sanded battery + brass button contacts for better contact.
Thanks Tom…mine( yours now) is being shipped after lunch.
So it seems to me the next logical test is to compare the same modded proto head and test back to back with the stock carrier and modded carrier. The FET might help a smidge, partially offset by the wire downgrade. Thermal improvements likely have minimal turn-on impact, but since your measurement isn’t instantaneous, it’s a toss up to me which mod is responsible for the majority of improvement. Thermal or carrier mods. UCLp in other tests showed to be negligibly different than the production AR lens IIRC.
JaredM - Yep, I was think'n the same thing, to isolate the changes to see. Problems I've had testing this light is that I have to give long cool down times, otherwise it reads much lower. It can take hours. I don't think happens any more on this one.
For example, I tested throw on the same cells I used with the lumens 30 sec test. I waited like 3-4 minutes, maybe, for the throw test, ran it for 5 secs on turbo first before recording the max on the meter. So it's sort of approximating fully charged cells at 30 secs, well maybe... Still, the throw # was the best I recorded and if I did this test the same way before, the reading would be significantly lower. Thinking it's the better MCPCB contact with the shelf.
But also the lumens at start was the most I recorded, and that is probably more attributed to the carrier and FET.
Ohh - the stock lights must be 20 AWG wires, not 18. 2 18 AWG wires will no way fit in the drilled holes and MCPCB cutouts. The stock wires are definitely thinner than any 18 AWG, though insulation thickness can vary, I don't think it explains it.
Time is my problem - got a lot of things goin on right now.
I’ve experienced the same ‘cold-start’ behavior as well, on much smaller lights in my case. Even when it seems fully cooled back to room temp after say 10min, the turn on numbers are always suppressed on subsequent runs within say 30 minutes of each other.
Like TA said, I run the head under cold tap water to ‘reset’ things when doing reflector tuning for example. I do my best to keep water off the lens, but 15-20 seconds is all it usually needs to be back to baseline.
I understand the time limitation. My eyes are waayyyy bigger than my stomach for this flashlight stuff. I often say I’m going to do things that never happen when it comes to the hobby. At the end of the day, my EDC and maybe a compact thrower or gun light is what I put 80% of my time into. And of that, most of it is chasing the ‘perfect’ beam and tint for each of these applications.