Good choice, i bought a bunch of nice little aaa lights in hope of finding my perfect host, and this one really hits the spot it is small but surprisingly roomy where it needs to be. and it is as of yet the easiest and fastest flashlight to disassemble i have got so far.
And it headsinks really well for something this tiny, the whole flashlight gets warm quick when using a 10440 not just the head like some with worse heatsinking.
When you say pill area do you mean how deep is the part where the led star sits? that is 13,42mm deep without the bezel.
Or do you mean the part under that, because from the other side the one i call “driver compartment” is 6,6mm deep so because wight said this driver could be assembled in just under 5mm, we would have 1,6mm to spare for a possible contact board, but that would not leave much room for wires so it would be really fiddly to assemble if even possible.
This is wights answerer about the hight of the assembled driver
“Without your strap? 4.9mm w/ a mediocre build. 4.8mm w/ a good build (optimal amount of solder, 7135 and MCU both right against the PCB). Should be able to sand components down somewhat. Best case scenario I think you could reduce the top side by 0.5mm (limited by C1) and maybe the same on the bottom side (I don’t know how far you can sand the ATTiny13A). After all that you’ll have to add your strap’s thickness.”
So 1,7 + possible if one would sand down some components 0,5+0,5mm more so 2,7mm for an extra contact board and wires, still tight though but better
Yeah I was talking about the driver area, thanks for the great info. The contact board I have in mind is from an ultrafire protection circuit, so it’s 18mm now, but very easy to sand down and very thin. The wires will be the tough part, I’ll probably have to use pvc coated because the silicone is much thicker.
Edit: it sounds like a lot of work though. If wight can expand the board enough for a press-fit, that would be a simpler solution
Yeah this 12mm board expanded to 13mm to be sanded to fit w would be a much better option, but when you get yours you will see why i asked if it was possible to make a single sided 13mm sandable to 12,6mm if he used smaller smd components and the
standing FET trick
Because how this lights driver kind of almost need to rest on the tiny shelf in the driver area because it is a twisty, and the bottom of the driver connects its minus on a non anodized shelf on the top part of the battery parts shelf and the twisty action would probably be much sturdier if one could use an almost drop in mechanical configured driver, and i hope to be able to build these good enough to be able to gift to people and with this drivers possible low volt protection on the 10440 it could make it a giftable lithium aaa size light to less technical minded friends with a short turbo timer of course
Thanks for the pvc wire tips, any tips on where to get some appropriate ones? and are you sure pvc can stand the crazy heat something this small and hot can produce, i thought it was silicon or teflon that one should use on this kind of builds.
What do you plan to use for led? i have a Noctigon XP16 with a XP-L V6 3D that i will sand down to 13,8mm for a press fit in, so i can get some extra heatsinking on the sides also.
I’m not planning that hot of a build, just around 1.25 amps on high with a 30 sec timer down to 0.35a. Moon, Low, and Medium using the 7135, and High using the FET. So I’ll use a neutral XPG2, and planning to just use an aluminum star. This will be an edc light, so practicality and run time on the 10440 are priorities. I’m not planning any mode memory, so hopefully 4-modes isn’t too annoying with a twisty
Interesting set up, yeah something like that would probably be well balanced for edc gift lights and lower cost also i will keep that in mind, for me i am still new at this so i want MAX lumens also :), i understand the fascination dims 8) a bit with time but for now it is still exiting.
So when you say high you mean turbo down to 0,350a as in medium low and moon and non turbo on the 7135? what lumens range can you get on the 7135 and a xp-g2? EDIT i checked djozz graph and the answer is further down.
Can you tell me how the selection of the 7135 is handled? is it automatic from the pwm levels or something else, and how much lumens could you get at max from only the 350mhA 7135? sounds 120 lumens from a xp-g2 and 160-170 lumens from a xp-l v6 about right? do you have any guesstimated runtimes one could hope for?
I thought a copper dtp star would improve the efficiency and extend the runtime also, but i have been wrong about some similar assumptions lately so maybe it is not.?
I could be wrong on the details. I’m still working it out myself, I’m basing verything on other driver threads right now. These drivers utilize the dual PWM outputs on the STAR firmware, so I believe you can tell the MCU what output and PWM level to use for each mode.
On the XPG2 I’m guesstimating 120 lumens on medium and 400 on high at the emitter.
I want a mode range of Moon (~1lumen) > Low (30 lumens) > Medium (120) > High (400)
My efest 10440 is 350mAh, so assuming 85% efficiency, on medium that’s about 50 minutes of runtime.
You are right that copper helps, but I thinking that at my current levels it won’t get hot enough to make much of a difference. I very well could be wrong though.
That mode range sound perfect for an edc in this size, i guess i will build at least two for me then, one crazy look at how much light your hand is throwing J)
and a normal practical one, the problem is the twisty, if i could find as good host as this but with a button, i can really see some more and higher modes be useful but as you said more than 4 probably gets annoying, and the thought of twisting something scorching hot doesn’t sound all that pleasant |( as an edc
By this I mean the areas purposefully left clear of either electrical signals or physical parts so that they do not hit the driver ledge. (or the retaining ring, on two sided drivers)
Expanding 12mm to 13mm is easy, here you go. As far as a 12.6mm single sided FET driver: <stern> I’ve already made plenty of new untested drivers recently, I recommend that you work with what’s available.</stern>
:hat: If you still need this in the future ask again when the WIP list isn’t quite so long, or at least one of these LFPAK33 designs is in the Released list.
I placed the LED+/~~ across from each other at the edges of the board specifically to make this kind of tight situation easier to manage. You don’t shouldn’t need any clearance above the driver if you attach LED wires to the PCB and send them straight out the top. That said, it certainly sounds like a tricky build which requires precision.
I would think that covering the MCU in copper tape or gluing a thin copper sheet over the MCU would both be pretty sturdy. As far as the use of PVC wire, it is fine. PVC does not melt from LED heat during operation: it melts from the soldering iron during assembly. Teflon wire is an alternative used by a fair number of experienced modders here, you can search around for the advantages and disadvantages of it. Very high melting point and much physically tougher than silicone vs cuts - but generally speaking it has a lower strand count (less flexible) and the jacket itself is much less flexible. Thinner than silicone.
Now, as far as needing protected cells… why? If they will only use them with this driver and you set the driver up correctly it will have both Low Voltage Warning and Low Voltage Protection (shutdown).
How are you planning on limiting to 1.25A? Just playing with the PWM on Turbo until you hit 1.25A?
Offtime-no-memory sounds like a winner in a twisty.
Close: STAR_on_time and STAR_off_time both use a threshold value to switch between using both PWM outputs and only the ALT PWM output. You may have been thinking of STAR_momentary, which is not usable here.
Makes sense. Like I said, I still have a lot of work to do.
Yeah I was just going to try to dial in the pwm for high. I want it to be usably bright without draining my 10440 in 30 seconds or getting too hot
Thanks wight as always, and double thanks for the 13mm expansion and the point about the wires.
About the low voltage protection, that i meant from the driver, my sister wanted an olight i3S with a efest 10440 after she saw mine, but i can’t in good conscience give hear something like that when it can go so low before it dims so she could damage the cells and not even know it before it is to late.
She is a 30 year old women who is still afraid of the dark so i want to make her something special so she can feel safer :love:
When you say cover the mcu with copper tape do you mean to use as the strap/battery + ? could i just use some kapton over the mcu and use copper tape as the batt+?
And yes now that we have a 13mm board it will fit the driver lip it will be sturdier, i hope it is possible to shorten the bottom spring enough to accommodate the extra height down towards the battery so it still mechanically functions with the proper twisty action. otherwise we have to drop in the driver deeper in the driver compartment and it is then it could be hard to get it really sturdy, as djozz found out in his mod of this host, it is that what i hope to avoid.
i hope you are right about the twisty not being affected by a shorter travel of the spring, i have never done surgery on a twisty before so can’t know how it will affect, but people complained of iffy mode changes on this light in stock so i have just assumed that changing it to much could make that worse, but it was maybe just a unreliable stock driver on some of the lights.
I just measured the maximum an eneloop aaa can travel down in the tube, and it is 2,6mm…………this could be a problem i wonder how high an attiny13a is from the driver? less i hope, or else i see some shaved attinys in our futures
Then whole head is one piece, everything is anodized aluminum.
have you seen these previous threads on this light
Unfortunately we are having a communication breakdown of some kind. Maybe you are not aware of how LVP works in these drivers. I’ll use STAR_off_time as the example. We set a voltage at which the MCU will cause the light to blink 3 times quickly and then reduce the brightness. In a set period of time it will do the same check and if necessary blink 3 times and reduce the brightness again. Once voltage reaches another point (which we also chose) the MCU will turn off the light. At that point the light is only asleep, but for single-cell lights the draw is incredibly low. (I assume that it’s not significantly worse than a protection circuit but I could be pretty wrong about that.) All you have to do is tell the user to take the cell out and charge it if they see the light blink several times.
RE: copper tape. Yes, I’m talking about creating the BAT+ connection. I don’t think you need to use Kapton in between, just put a strip of copper tape across the MCU.
The ATtiny13A is approximately 1.6mm tall by my measurements. The datasheet lists a MAX figure of 1.75mm. Both of those figures are without crushing the legs. The bottom of the plastic package does not touch the PCB unless the legs are crushed, maybe gaining 0.1mm.