yeah i have calipers at home, but im at work for another hour.
When you get a chance you can take the width and thickness dimensions of that strip if you don’t mind. Then we can see what AWG equiv it is.
the more I think about it, the more I think I’m overstating how big it is. It’s probably tiny and my brain is screwing with me. I’ll measure it when I get home.
Yes i know we set if from the driver, i don’t really know how yet but i will find out when it is time for fine tuning, i thought you thought i was talking about protected batteries before when you said “Now, as far as needing protected cells… why?” as a response to when i said “and i hope to be able to build these good enough to be able to gift to people and with this drivers possible low volt protection on the 10440” if you didn’t then i misunderstood you.
As far as i know the available protected 10440 is crap anyway, and the not officially but 10440 capable small popular lights with workable mode changes, like the olight and thrunite don’t have any protection at all and will run down batteries very easily to dangerous levels.
But i didn’t know exactly how it worked because i haven’t played with them yet, the attiny on these very capable driver i mean, so thanks again for filling in the blanks.
Very nice that the ATtiny13A is 1,75mm 
this means one less potential stumbling block avoided this feels more and more possible by the minute.
Djozz made it work stacking the big FET on a tiny12, we should definitely be able to do it with the tiny driver wight put together
Yeah djozz used that huge Vishay FET, we have it possibly much easier.
But it still looks to come down to less then 1mm so it is tight very tight
The trace is 2mm wide by 0.09mm thick. Definitely smaller than I thought. (and for what it’s worth the pcb is 0.86mm thick)
That’s nearly 24AWG equiv (it’s better than 25AWG). Who knows what the material is, but I assume it’s not that bad…
The length that I would need is very short, and we halve the effective length because there are connections at both ends. It should be good for over 5amps
“(this is my tool)”:http://www.solar-wind.co.uk/cable-sizing-DC-cables.html
What standard are you measuring against? It’s not a big deal since you only want <2A, but for LED hotrodding purposes traditional “OK / not OK” wire gauge guidelines do not apply… (all we care about is minimizing voltage drop, the traditional wiring guidelines are all intended for creating large margins against potentially dangerous waste heat as far as I know.)
Are you planning any revisions to your drivers anytime soon? If not, I’ll be ordering from Osh tomorrow
I don’t think so, but which drivers are you referring to?
I’ve been doing some work on the A17DD-SO8 due to Zener related problems, I posted about it in that thread.
Yeah I saw that, but I’m not planning on using that one (or doing any zeners for that matter)
I’m going to order the PZL, LDX, 17mm FET+7135, and this one
I have no immediate plans for changes to any of the drivers you listed. I just posted the link to the current 17mm A17LDX in that thread, it was previously not shared. Note that A17LDX is purely experimental at this stage, so you’ll probably need help with firmware. (And that PCB is entirely untested.)
ok I might wait to order that board then, but I’ll included the 7136 and sense resistors in my Mouser order. Thanks
Don’t assume that I actually plan on testing v016 myself. If it’s something you’re interested in getting rolling then I recommend that you be bold. 
I’ll be bold as long as people like you are willing to hold my hand
Clever.
Seriously though, who knows when I’ll work on it. Might be today, might months away. I don’t think I’ve ordered any 17mm PCBs, only 20mm w/ the two 1206’s. If you want to work on testing / playing with it I’ll be happy to hold your hand. Certainly get one of the other drivers working first though, better to knock the learning curve out on something we know works with a standard firmware! :~
My SOIC8 clip just came recently, so tonight I’m going to get comfortable working with the programming using a stock Qlite from RMM. Then I’ll get some reflow practice using my pre-programmed BLF17DD kit. By the time my Mouser and Osh orders come in, I should be good to go.
I’m debating whether to use this in an EagleTac D25A. I think the 15mm driver would fit, but this 12mm one makes it a lot easier for me to keep the original battery contact plate with tight/loose sensor, and there’s plenty of room in the pill because that’s how the stock driver works.
I mostly just need to do some tests on the stock driver first, like asking avrdude to attempt identifying the stock MCU. If it’s a supported model, I could just reprogram the stock driver (which is a boost, so I could use Eneloops). Stock has some weird aspects though, like (as far as I can tell) moon mode appears to be driven separately (from a MCU pin?) and adjusted by a potentiometer.