WTB +9000 lumen modded flashlight

I need a flooded with minimum of 9000 lumens. I live in Finland. Something below $150 with shipping fees. Can be modded light.

Probably won’t happen for that price.

9000 lumens is a lot of light!!! I only have one light that will do that many lumens without using the Chinese system of measurement. It cost me a lot more than $150 to build.

Where did you get that figure from? And what do you need that much light for?

I understand that example Trustfire TR-J20 can be easily and cheaply modified up to 11000-14000 measured lumens.

We have very big open area near us where my son sleds (downhill with sled) and there is no light at all. The area is 100 meters wide and 200m long (110 x 220 yards) . I want to light whole area. In winter our nights are 18,5 hours, so pretty dark here. I understand that with very easy resistor mod TR-J20 can output 5000 lumens, is that enough?

I do not need any beam, just very much of flood light. 200 yards is enough for beam longevity.

It can be done, supposedly 390W but even if it is 30% less than that it will be more than enough :smiley:


or you could buy two of this (75$ each):

Lol :smiley:

That is actually possible by using 100w cob led. Cost less than 10$, add a driver, case , battery and lens and you are good to go at even at 100$

It’s very possible with the xhp range.

One option if you are in to modding is it get a sky Ray King quad and then get a copper heat sink made then replace LEDs with 4x xhp50 and the new driver from mountain electronics that is made for sky Ray King. Ow and you would have to make it run 2s2p to run the xhp 50s. Sounds easy but it would be a bit of work.

Can you link me the proper driver for skyray and example of copper heat sink (sizewise)?

If you use 9x XML2 at ~3A/3.5V (actually a bit lower) that would take ~94.5W.
For XHP70 3x 3.6A at 8V (3000 lumens each) = 86.4V
Most flashlights approaching that range use ramp down drivers. They reduce current after a few seconds to prevent overheating. If you need 9000 lumen for longer durations you’ll need a larger case, probably with fan cooling.


And a big battery pack.

That was my first thought. It’s one thing getting 9000 lumens which is pretty simple, but it’s another thing sustaining 9000 lumens for a reasonable amount of time.

My 12x XP-L and 12x Nichia TN30s have around 540gm of copper under their emitters which is also glued into the heads using Arctic Silver adhesive. I can feel them warming up within 30 seconds.

I think it will be a bit more difficult than that… The LED is cheap; the drivers I’ve found are more expensive, the cheapest AC converter I found to run it was about $16. It’s a huge amount of light, but even with the 44mm lens assembly, is extremely floody; I don’t think you would be able to get 200m of throw. I would like to see what one of the larger 78mm lens modules would do in this configuration:

A “battery” would need to be a high-capacity deep cycle to provide the 100W needed. Or possibly a bank of series-connected gel-cells to provide the 36V @ 3A needed for the emitter. Also, don’t forget the heatsink assembly, as that will generate a lot of heat!

I would love to see it on the snow though. 8)
Unfortunately, we don’t get much snow here…

@the OP: I assume this location is remote enough that running an extension cord and setting up a light tower like this wouldn’t be an option…

…but I have been working (somewhat unsuccessfully) on building some PVC flood-light towers to use with LED flood lights purchased off eBay. The idea being, it can be used as a work light, while connected via wall power, and can be used with a deep-cycle battery/inverter combo for lighting when camping/fishing/etc. where power is not available. Unfortunately, the LED lights I’ve found on ebay are wildly inconsistent in quality and build. They typically run at half the rated power, and have unusual combinations of emitters/drivers/tint. Also, stripped-out screws are common, limiting water tightness.

Meteor with XPL HI? A bit out of your budget but I think it will suit your needs.

…And it can be buried in the snow to help keep it cool! H)

I have 6x 5s lipos, so I can get easily 15ah @ 40v if needed. :slight_smile: And maximum output with that configuration what I can output is 375 amps @ 40v = 15000w. :smiley:

If you have the lipos, then this setup is for you

Considering function first before form

Is it possible to use 250w led with fan and heatsink and build it to tube form? :slight_smile:

Guys he’s in Finland during winter. What kind of cooling do you think he really needs? He’ll be lucky if he gets the light up to body temperature. This is probably what your looking for. TrustFire TR - J20 $64.99 It’s a very simple resistor mod and I listed my test findings.

There is 0 to - 30 degree Celsius in winter time (–22 to 32 fahrenheit) So pretty cold.