Thank you Sir!
that link includes this size:
18.5 x 1 mm for $8, that may be in the ballpark for the RRT-01.
(need to confirm the lens dimension…)
and thanks for the 0.13 mm tolerance ( 0.005) relevance, advance warning about rounded edges, and potential replacement O ring awareness
all very helpful
visualizing
a Sapphire lens 
and tritiums
Jon can you check the size of Eye10/15? If they are the same as rrt01 then just give a call to Fanny.
She sent me one spare for eye15 for few bucks
yes, I just have to decide which Eye10 or RRT-01 to open, when Im in there for other tasks like ring lube and LED swap…
thanks for the suggestion to ask Fanny for a replacement lens…
My lenses are actually fine
Im researching Sapphire lenses… that cost $51 for an HDS,
or $5 for an FW3a (I think this is more in my ballpark… lol)
thanks to Archibald Tuttle, I think it may get done for $8 for an RRT-01…
RRT-01 LENS
thank you very much for the help
1.62 x 20 on your pics
the 0.12 thinner sapphire, should work well with the slightly taller kaidomain reflectors we are using in the Original RRT-01 mods…
time to put my money where my mouth is…
will report back after I try one of those sapphire lenses
thank you all for the sleuthing
That’s exactly what I was thinking.
I shared that suggestion with someone, but it did not work out as expected… I dont know why, I have not tried the Crelant myself…
they reported
“Crelant 7G3CS arrived today. It does NOT fit the JetBeam RRT-01 as I had hoped. I put an 18650 battery in it and it has two speeds, 1226 lumens and 350 lumens … Note that the Crelant 7G3CS tube threads are slightly different than the RRT-01 and will not engage in the JetBeam’s head”
any solution I can pass on would be appreciated
Edit
it is possible the mismatch Im hearing about was between the head of a NEW 2019 RRT-01 and the Crelant. imo Archibald Tuttle knows what hes talking about. In no way do I doubt his recommendation that a Crelant 18650 tube fits an ORIGINAL RRT-01
Some tubes working on the old RRT01s (even if not perfectly…)
SOFIRN SP32 / SP32A
CONVOY S2+
ACEBEAM TK16 (can only be used for momentary ON, due to the e-switch it uses)
This thread really needs to become a sticky. Sincere thanks to everyone who contributed.
Late last year, I lost my Nitecore D10 to American Airlines, and began using a long stored JB TCR1 as EDC.
The adjustment ring on the TCR1 was just pure trash. I almost treated it as such, and nearly binned it.
Some BLF knowledge and some Nyogel ( it had no grease, none) turned the TCR1 into a world class flashlight.
It’s hard, for me, to go back to another EDC interface after using the dimmer type dial.
A stock BLF Q8, modded Thrunite TH20 & modded JB TCR1 are a extremely versatile trio.
Very sorry for your loss of a D10, really happy for you to have a TCR-1 to enjoy.
When I got my TCR-1 the dial was not smooth, it took a lot of massage and lubricant to get it to feel buttery smooth (without disassembly).
Some of my RRT-01 were also not smooth, but after disassembly and lubricating with Nyogel 767a they became a joy to use.
The feel of a smooth the ring with no grittyness, nor excessively easy to turn, transforms the experience from apparent low quality, to feeling like a High Quality instrument.
The convenience of operation of the Jetbeam Rotaries have spoiled me. I still use a couple clicky lights (one set to 0.02 lumens for bathroom visits, and one that turns on at 20 lumens for brief illumination needs on my desk, but I have greatly slowed my accumulation of lights with buttons.
For me, the RRT-01 has been a game changer… not sure why, but I seem to have accumulated more than one… lol!
I agree this thread is full of a wealth of info. Thanks to all who participate and contribute.
Thanks, and more thanks, you have helped make this a one stop shop for JB rotary info. This is a easy, intuitive, and depending on one’s age, very familiar UI.
I spent a lot of years with the D10, but perhaps the loss was for the best. It wasn’t hard to overshoot a desired level with the D10 , due to ramping speed. And at it’s lowest level, on a minimal battery charge, the PWM was easily seen.
The clip was broken off of this TCR1, I still have to deal with drilling out the sheared machine screws and tapping new threads. I’ve got a original, McGizmo clip to fit. Then it’s on to led selection. I like so many different emitters and kelvins, it’s gonna be hard to find a middle of the road emitter and matching reflector.
Such a cool design, cant help but think of Spinal Tap
there are links in this thread to consolidate the reflector options that moderator007 researched for us
they work with the 219b options I enjoy
my personal general purpose grail is the sw45k and that link also lists a source for those
along with other parts useful in a TCR-1, including an XP compatible mcpcb, the driver that has a Strobe option, and a shorter clip. (though I respect your choice of a McGizmo option)
(I was not in USA in my youth, and missed the Spinal Tap experience. Thanks for supporting and contributing to this Stepless Rotary conversation. 
)
Thanks Jon, traveling due to work right now, layovers give me time to go over all the options. It is a really useful design, from theater seating to menu reading, poorly lit parking garages,etc.
And it carries easily, even without a clip. That and the current crop of 18350 is easily more capable than the 14500 cells I was using before. Although I would always like to have a option of running AA in a pinch. Looking through older google images, it looks like it may lego with the the discontinued JB “DD” series (digital display). I actually have a AA version of that light. Curious as heck now if that light body will actually work on the TCR1 head, without exposed threads and o-ring.I won’t know till I return home this weekend.
I hope your DD AA lego works
there are a couple good pics of one here
http://www.aushunteronline.com.au/spotlights/torches-accessories/jetbeam-dda10-led-torch-160-lumens/
that vendor also has NOS Original RRT-01’s
some of them have strobe too (eye 10 driver overlap)
Still working through jet lag and fatique. Got the broken pocket clip screws sorted and retapped.
Also tried the JB DDA10 and it is confirmed. Maybe a little homely, but fully seated, and fully functional. Threads seat and o-ring is completely engaged.
I tend to collect and keep red led display items, such as old Texas Instruments calculators and TIF Instruments digital ammeters.
Never have imagined a future Lego from this DDA10.
welcome home, so glad you got the clip sorted
and thanks for sharing your TCR-1 (and original RRT-01), 18650 Lego success!
here is a recent lego of mine (pic is a link)
Thanks!
And that’s a righteous looking SWM Lego!
Sapphire Crystal fit report
thanks shirnask… here are a few other measurements
I tested some 20 x 1.5 mm sapphire crystals for fit in an Eye10 and V10a
The glass on the Eye10 measured 20 x 1.4mm
The glass on the V10a measured 20.1 x 0.9mm
I bought this:
mingswear sapphire
20x1.5mm and confirmed the dimension is accurate
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-5mm-Thick-Flat-Sapphire-Watch-Glass-16mm-to-50mm-Crystal-for-Watchmaker-G961T/142442669808
That Crystal fits the Eye10 nicely!
.
v10a glass measures 20.1 x 0.9
the 1.5 mm Crystal is too thick and slightly exposes the O ring for the bezel
so this is a thinner alternative:
1mm thick sapphire
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-0mm-Thick-16-44-5mm-Flat-Sapphire-Watch-Glass-Round-Crystal-Replacement/302438741321
I have not checked the glass dimensions on a V11r, nor V10r, but I would guess they are similar to the V10a
…
fwiw about sapphire
the bling is cool, the scratch resistance is cool, and it is shiny!
light transmission on my meter
the thin V10a glass had a 1% light loss
the thick sapphire had a 2% light loss, I can live with that.
(ymmv, this is on my meter, etc)
Sooo… is Sapphire stronger? Way!
Thanks for the update. I think I will pick up a few.