I recieved my minus green order a few days after I placed it. WELL WORTH IT. This stuff is gold. Went with all of the zircon to try out different strengths. So far I have only actually installed it in one light, my SP36 BLF. Going to link my opple results below. It does it’s job well. Was going to take this light down to nothing to emitter swap it, now I’m not going to worry about it. Tint is very nice now. Highly recommend BOAZ. Great to do business with, and I am going to place another order soon!
You’re going to love it here, Brucelee!
Because you’re a newbie, you cannot send a PM.
Don’t worry; Boaz will probably PM you.
Once you have enough posts under your belt, you’ll be able to send PMs.
Thanks for posting a before and after pic .
I’ve noticed that the pics aren’t accurately revealing what we are seeing with our eyes . Glad to see you are pleased with the results .
Thanks for sharing.
Recently picked up 5 different zircon sheets to change temperatures / tints . To color correct , to lower kelvin turning 6500 k into 4800k or 4000k into 3000k
3000k to 2700k etc . For people looking for ways to change emitters to a warmer tint .
NEW ** 5 different Amber Zircon sheets expressly created to modify tint , drop temperature / kelvin and turn cooler tints into neutral or warmer colored tints .
I pulled out my TS10 hi cri 6000k light and did before and after of all 5 filters . I even added some diffusion and some minus green filters to the mix . Lots of fun and worthwhile results …. But pics don’t match what I’m seeing at all . If they were sort of close I’d post them but they’re not even close .
I know how that can go with beam shots. I’ll just plan to snag a couple sheets when I get around to placing my next order. What’s left of my minus green sheets are starting to look like Swiss cheese so that might be in the next couple weeks.
Would you please clarify what the sets of CCTs refer to? T5 for example, does that mean it will take a 5500k light down to 3000k? Is there much loss in output? If I understand T5 correctly, does that mean it comparatively has the greatest “strength” of the effect thus largest loss in output (however minor that may be)?
The temperatures aren’t ranges they are start and ending points .
Lee used to have a cool tool where you could type in the temperature your light was and what you wanted it to become … and it would tell you how to get there or how close you could get using one or two filters .
5500k to 3000k is a pretty large jump and the filter is the darkest of all of the 5 Amber filters
I listed them in order of strength T1 thru T5 .
Why they say that a 3500k turns into a 3000k seems a bit odd considering the end result will always depend on your led kelvin starting point .
Suffice it to say that like the minus green filters they allow you to push the temperature of your emitters around to create a more pleasing tint .
Life is good .