Have a nice time here, BlackWolf!
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Iām in for one if this is still the place to get them. PM sent
Received mine yesterday.
PM envoyƩ et bienvenu sur BLF!
No such luck here. Found my old 3.3V adapter (same writings on the back as in your picture) but canāt even read the firmware from my D3AA w/ 519A 5700K dedomed.
Iām going to try that mod, as I canāt do #1 right now (no access to a soldering iron). What capacitor value did you use? All I can see in the picture is ā680uFā, but the first digit is not clear and I think I may have missed more digits before it.
@thefreeman, what value do you recommend for that capacitor, for my specific case?
TIA!
No, youāre absolutely right. Itās a 680uF/ 16V capacitor, there are no digits missing.
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Thanks! Will try and procure one tomorrow at a nearby electronics shop.
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Iām interested in knowing if that works for you. Keep us posted.
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Will do! Just managed to buy two of these capacitors (only one should be needed, but costing less than 20 cents each, I thought it best to buy 2 and save one as a spare), will know whether it works momentarily.
EDIT: no such luck. The adapterās behavior on my light definitely changed (no more turning off and then back on of its LED when connecting to the D3AA), but I tried to read its firmware a dozen times and except once, this was the result:
The exception was this time, when it almost worked:
The ^C after the error message was me interrupting the program about 1 minute after the āpage loadā error message with no updates.
Hereās how I rigged it:
Next thing Iām gonna try is to use both capacitors in parallel (I bought 2 after all) in the hopes that twice the capacitance is enough to bump things over into working.
Any further suggestions welcome.
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Sorry for not replying sooner but increasing the output capacitance is not super reliable, itās just easy to try if one has a capacitor lying around
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Unfortunately the same error with double capacitors. Hereās how it looked:
I know the double capacitors are correctly connected because the on-board LED now takes longer (many seconds, about twice than with a single capacitor) to turn off when I disconnect the adapter from the computerās USB port (ie, itās serving its function of ācurrent reserveā). But thatās apparently not enoughā¦ :-/
Also, Iām pretty sure there are no shorts etc because the rigged adapter still works with my TS10 with no issues.
Only now you tell me 
Seriously, no problem and thanks for your input.
One question: is connecting +5V instead of 3.3V (ie, mod #1 as per your post), more reliable than the capacitor thing? If so I will try and procure a soldering iron, solder and a wire to try it next.
Yes, no problem when the driver is powered with 5V
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I tried and unfortunately the only kind of soldering iron I can find locally is blunt-tipped, no way I can solder the wire at the U2 pin with it.
Looks like Iām gonna have to wait for my new 4.5V adapters to arriveā¦ 
not really thrilled at my chances, this being Brazil and me without a tracking number. But anyway I tried everything else, so all thatās left is the wait
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I didnāt see any bashing. He was just trying to make an adapter work until he does get the 4.5V models that he orderedā¦
Which would be apparent if you had read the entire storyā¦
Besides why do you take offense when thefreeman doesnāt seem to? I am sure he could defend himself and his product if he felt it was required.
Relaxā¦ please.
BTW, I was interested in his results as I have some of the older 3.0 V units. I was curious to see if doing the capacitor mod may make them work as well as the newer ones.
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Today I woke up with an idea: to try and get someone else to do the mod for me. In fact, there are cellphone repair shops practically in every street corner around here, and these shops deal with much more minute/delicate electronics (the ones inside cellphones) so I was confident that they could do the job. Then I selected a nearby shop with good reputation from GoogleMaps and headed there.
The good news is, in the end IT WORKED! YAY! Finally I can backup my original firmware and config, and update my D3AA! 
The not so good news is, it demanded a LOT of effort. The guy at the shop was very knowledgeable and had all the right tools, but I did not notice that the picture @thefreeman originally posted has the ā+ā and āRā pins reversed in relation to the ones in my adapter 
so initially he did the mod to the wrong pin (the āRā one) instead of the correct ā+ā pin)ā¦
Also, when he cut the copper trace connecting the ā+ā pin to the rest of the circuit, the onboard PWR LED would no longer light upā¦ turned out that the LED is powered from that copper trace too, so if you donāt want it to go off permanently, you have to cut the trace very close to the ā+ā pin.
Fortunately the cellphone repair guy was not only knowledgeable but also very patient, and so he undid the mod to the wrong pin, then did it to the right pin, and then (when the PWR LED refused to turn on) traced the board with a DMM and diagnosed and fixed the issue (by reconnecting the trace where he first cut it, and then cutting it again at the point I indicate below).
For easy reference, hereās @TheFreemanās picture, along with a photo from my adapter, depicting both issues:
I hope this helps other people avoid these pitfallsā¦ 
EDIT: changed the picture to try and make it clear that in the end what worked was the wire jumper mod alone ā no capacitors in my final setup.
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Just want to clarify - did the addition of the capacitor WITHOUT the addition of the wire jumper work? Or did you incorporate both changes at the same time? Thanks for sharing.
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Nope ā absolutely no go with the capacitor, in my case.
What worked ā once the two caveats I pointed to were taken care of ā was the wire jumper.
Or did you incorporate both changes at the same time?
I followed @thefreemanās direction and did not try both ā and it wasnāt necessary, just the wire jumper (done correctly) was enough to get it to work.
Thanks for sharing.
No problem, Iām glad to be of help 
EDIT: Iāve just changed the picture in my post above to try and make that more clear, thanks for pointing the possible confusion to me.
congrats on getting your TS10 flashing adapter, adapted to work w your D3AA
Will a D3AA adapted adapter still work on a TS10?
My TS10 flashing adapter does not work on my D3AA, so earlier today I ordered a new one from gchart.
He had asked if my adapter had holes in it, so I could try the capacitor trickā¦ but, no, my adapter does not look like yours, nor do I have any capacitors.
Could my TS10 adapter be modified to work on my D3AA by adding a wire like you did? and if so, can you markup this pic with the correct changes? Do I also have to cut a trace?
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