That’s a 5V programmer, it will work fine with the D3AA
I have made my own, it’s not pretty but gets the job done for now. I will probably buy freeman’s programmer a bit later.
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Sorry for the late reply, Jon – only now (at 3AM :-|) got the leisure to respond appropriately.
Yep, it does! I just tested my D3AA-modded adapter on my TS10 and was able to read and write its firmware with no issues.
So, I also happen to have, in the past, bought an original @gchart adapter – but it does not look much like yours (see the pics here). Mine was 5.0V (as I measured, see the same link above further on) and if I hadn’t left it back in Chile, I’m pretty sure it would have saved me from all this modding rigmarole (but then, hindsight is always 20/20).
Anyway, I suggest you measure yours (using a voltmeter or DMM between pins “+” and “-” with it connected to a USB port) and if it’s 5V indeed, it should have worked with your D3AA with no modding needed. Perhaps something else is amiss? I remember your programming environment isn’t exactly standard (you using a Macintosh or something IIRC) so you might want to double-check these other points.
I hope this helps, and please let me know if I can be of further service.
@thefreeman, I want to buy this programmer, if you still have these available please PM me.
hi, PM sent, and welcome to BLF!
Hi, I’m also new to the forum and want to purchase a programmer. Would love a pm, thank you!
Hello @thefreeman I’m also new and would like a PM. Thank you!
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Today, I damaged both the programmer and the USB hub port it was connected to. The label on the programmer reads, ‘USB-C TO UDPI KEY LIGHTED V1.0.’ I bought it in November 2022, so I believe it is the initial version.
Here’s what happened:
Today, I successfully reflashed the SP10 PRO using the programmer, but when I tried to reflash another flashlight (the TS10 RGB aux), the programmer stopped working. At some point, I smelled something burning, which seemed odd. Upon checking, I realized the smell was coming from the port on my USB 3.0 hub.
Current condition of the programmer:
When plugged into a working USB port, the programmer lights up, but the computer does not recognize it (the computer does not make the usual sound when I connect USB devices). If I connect the programmer to TS10 RGB aux, the flashlight aux lights up. When plugged in, the main chip (black SMD component) on the programmer gets hot (measured about 70C).
Has anyone experienced this?
I think Timmc had a couple (5V without LDO i think ?) that did something like this, the latter versions with a LDO should be more reliable since it limits the current, and there are also ESD diodes for voltage spikes on the latest version.
I’ll send you a new one.
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Thank you for the replacement! I also want to take this opportunity to express my appreciation for your ongoing development and improvements to the programmer.
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Ouch! But good thing you were using a hub… were it connected directly to your computer’s USB port, the resulting damage would be way more difficult/expensive to fix… 
Good to know! So I think my original 5V adapter from @gchart is in the “not so safe” category in this regard… and that both your old “short” 3.3V version, and your latest “long” 4.5V version, are all “safe”, correct? Please confirm.
That’s great customer service right there! 
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Just reporting that my @thefreeman’s 4.5V “long” adapter worked perfectly for flashing my new FireFlyLite T9R with SBT90.2 LED (my first and so far only light from FFL) as well as all the rest of my Anduril collection (flashed them all yesterday with TK’s latest 2024-04-20 plus my custom configurations and mods) with absolutely no issues.
Thanks again @thefreeman for that great adapter!
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The 5V versions pass through the power right from the USB port. So yes, if something goes wrong when flashing a light using the 5V adapter, there is room for it to pull too much power from USB and cause issues. I wouldn’t say that you should immediately stop using a 5V version, just be cautious and if something doesn’t seem right, unplug it.
Like @thefreeman said, the 3.3V and 4.5V versions have LDOs that will limit the amount of current being drawn from the USB port and should be less prone to issues like this.
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Thank you very much for the confirmation @gchart!
I received the latest version of the programmer today, and it functions as expected with my current setup.
In my current setup, I connect the programmer to a powered USB 3.0 hub. The hub is a 10-port USB 3.0 model with a high-wattage adapter. Previously, the initial programmer failed in this setup—it became very hot and eventually stopped working, damaging the USB port in the process.
The original programmer had been functioning well for a long time, likely before I started using the new USB hub. While I can’t say for certain that the hub was the cause, I don’t recall encountering any issues before. In my current setup, however, I noticed the programmer getting excessively hot. It’s unclear whether this was due to the hub or because I left the programmer connected for an extended period while programming multiple lights.
Although the initial programmer is no longer functional, it still powers on. Attached is a thermal image of the broken programmer. I recommend discontinuing use if it becomes hot to the touch, as it caused problems in my case. I was able to reflash a couple of lights while it was hot, but it eventually failed. So, I would take it as a warning sign.
The current version does not get hot as seen in the next photo.
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Hello, I would be interested in purchasing one of your programmers @thefreeman if these are still available.
Many thanks!
I used the cable included with the new version to reflash my Wurkkos TS30S Pro—thank you for including it! Long story short, my TS30S wasn’t functioning properly at first, but using the hex file for “0716 wurkkos-fc13” resolved the issue.
Initially, I checked the version information from my light, which blinked “2022-7-25-715,” and assumed I needed the TS25 firmware. However, after searching through this thread, I discovered that Wurkkos had reused the same version number across several lights, despite them having different firmware.
When I first flashed the “0715 wurkkos-ts25” hex file, following the version blinks, my TS30S didn’t work properly. The light would only turn on at the lowest output and wouldn’t ramp up. Double-clicking did get me to turbo, but that was about all I could do. In a bit of a panic, I Googled for the correct firmware but couldn’t find any helpful answers there. I considered starting a new thread to ask for help, but luckily, searching this thread again led me to the solution I needed!
Thank you all for the helpful information and developing this amazing tool! Upgrading my old Anduril feels like getting a brand-new light—one of the many joys of using Anduril lights!
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Do you still have these available? I just got my first Anduril light and I’d like to update the firmware because it shipped with an old 2022 version.
I sure do! Sending a PM now.
Oh, and welcome to BLF!
@thefreeman Do you still have flash kits that work with D3AA available? I am unable to DM.