WTS : USB-UPDI Programmers for Attiny1616/AVR32DD20 drivers (Sofirn/Wurkkos/Fireflylite/Emisar)

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142

I went ahead and added heatshrink and tested 24 * USB-C to UDPI V2 adapters.

Testing procedure:

  1. Check for shorts between each of the three pins.
  2. Connect the adapter to a 6-port Anker 5V power supply for 30 minutes using a USB-A to USB-C cable. Check visually and smell for any signs of damaged components.
  3. Connect to an Android phone using a USB-C to USB-C cable, write a hex file to a Wurkkos TS10 and verify.

I identified one adapter with an intermittent USB-C connection so I marked that for disposal.

23 * USB-C to UPDI adapters look ok.

143

It was a faulty chip.

I picked up the faulty adapter today from my mailbox.

I used a digital multimeter to check for shorts between pins and I found a short between the ground and positive pins. I looked for damaged components but I couldnā€™t see any. I measured the resistor values (ok). And checked for shorts on the USB pins and chip pins. There seemed to be a short between positive and ground with those two parts. I figured that the chip might be causing the short.

I swapped the chips between adapters and the fault now occurs on the other adapter. So the chip is faulty.

PXL_20230813_110953195-02
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As to why the chip failedā€¦ Iā€™m not sure.

If a chip fails like that in the future, there may be a burning smell and it could draw 5V 1A from a USB port. Itā€™s best to stop using the adapter if that happens.

144

I guess adding a fuse would be safer in case of shorting chip, Iā€™ll add one in the next version.

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145

I use heat shrink around and is a good solution in case of shorts, also is very ergonomic

IMG_2023-08-13-225445
IMG_2023-08-13-2254451080Ɨ1080 441 KB

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146

Big Thanks to everyone and TimMc as I failed at all the previous attempts to update these lights. Worked first try with my new programmer. :slight_smile:

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147

Might not be the best place to ask this, but its kinda relatedā€¦ I think.

If I short the flashing pads on a t1616 light while re-flashing anduril, could I fry the light?

Iā€™ve managed to build the customized Anduril Iā€™ve wanted, in the old pre multichanel branch, for my Sofirn SC31 Pro. after several days of use, I decided to go ahead and move all the changes into multi channel, for my Wurrkos TS25.

I wonā€™t say that was easy, and I found some interesting things in the softwareā€¦ I was going to post about those, and probably will later, but its a kinda moot point right now.

I got tired of compiling on the Linux box and moving the file to Windows to flash. I started this way because the current ubuntu package for avrdude doesnā€™t support serialupdi. And I was set up to flash in windows before getting set up to compile on my own. Compiled avrdude from source for ubuntu, to get it up to date enough to workā€¦Then Lots of learning finding serial ports in linux.

FInally got to flash the light from linux!

Great!

Made a couple ramp preset changes, and was chasing why manual memeory wouldnā€™t work, my 4th flash in an hour, and the adaptor stopped initializing the light.

Changed cables, no.
changed USB portsā€¦ Noā€¦

Went back to the windows machineā€¦ No.

Thought I fried the updi adator until I tried it on the SC31 to test.
Flawless!

So, yeah.
Somehow Iā€™ve shorted out my TS25. :frowning:

Only things I can think of are at some point linux supplied too much voltageā€¦ Not likely.
Or I crossed the pins on the pads wrongā€¦

What the light does now is comes on as soon as you assemble it, in moonlight low. not lowest possible output but close. Switch does nothing, no off, no reset during assembly, nothing. Just the main emitters on, on moon. To turn it off I have to remove the head or tail cap(remove power).

I never changed anything in the software that could short the light, ie, no hardware deff changes, or ramp setup, power management, etcā€¦ Just rearranging click counts and turning provided options on and off. As I said, it was a working build, I was just chasing manual memory/default level settings when it suddenly stopped connecting.

The only other thing it will do, is start to initialize the aux leds when I ā€œconnectā€ the adaptorā€¦ It lights the on red, on lowā€¦ Before this for every flash it lighted red high, then whitish blue high when connecting the adaptor, then low, and I think off while flashing.

Anyway,
Any thoughts?

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148

Rotating the adapter does nothing (5V to UPDI).
Two pogo pins normally shouldnā€™t be able to touch one pad.
I doubt that itā€™s due to a short during flashing.

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149

The adapters are back in stock.

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150

Well, thats good to know for the future anyway!
Looks like its a short IN the adapter

I just had some of the magic smoke escape when I plugged it in for another lightā€¦ And I have a pretty decent burn on a finger, it is getting HOT simply plugged into USB. Sucker is shorted out internally, and cooking itselfā€¦ I get the feeling it put power somewhere it wasnā€™t supposed to into the light. :confused: :frowning:

151

Is it one I sold you ? If so Iā€™ll replace it.

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152

Oh, No, its not one of yours. or at least I donā€™t think so, unless someone is re-selling them; I got it from this guy in Hawaii last year.

https://jlhawaii808.com/products/updi-programmer-driver-reflashling-kit?_pos=2&_psq=updi&_ss=e&_v=1.0

I didnā€™t mean to imply any problem with your product, this was simply the only place I knew of any discussion about the adapters in general; an easy place to ask questions.

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153

Very dapper! :slight_smile:

I might try and do it myself, if only I can find some transparent thermal shrink (all Iā€™ve ever seen are either black or red).

154

Thank you! Try Ali

155

AliExpress? Simply doesnĀ“t work for me (wonā€™t accept paypal and doesnā€™t like any of my credit cards). But thanks anyway.

156

Yeah, I understand @gchart designed it that way exactly for that; as the RX/TX pin is supposed to be able to take +V anyway (just pulsed during data transmission)

(5V to UPDI).

You mean 3.3V, right? Thatā€™s what I understand this adapter sets +V to.
EDIT: itā€™s 5.0V alright, just measured with a DMM on mine. I could have sworn I read somewhere that it should be 3.3V or run the risk of damaging the MCUā€¦ must have confused it with some other MCU I routinely work with (ESP32/ESP8266).

157

The ones I have since January are 3.3V, Gchart will also have them soon, the MCU absolute Vin is 6V so no problem with 5V, 3.3V is for drivers I designed with a boost IC with 4.6Vin absolute maximum.

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158

Perhaps not a short but an ESD (Electro-Static Discharge), specially if you live in a region with low-humidity weather.

Until a few years ago, I lived in a high-humidity-weather region and havenā€™t ever had any issues with ESD damaging anything. But since I moved to a low-humidity area, I started losing MCUs right and left (5 in a single year). It was then (about an year ago) that I installed an anti-static work pad and started using it, complete with good grounding and anti-static bracelet, and havenā€™t lost a single one yet.

I also use it whenever I take my flashing kit out of its anti-static bag and OFC when flashing my flashlights.

159

Iā€™ve just started feeling an absolute hunger for your adapters, specially since learning any adapter can and eventually will break (just like any piece of electronics, I guess) and as I have only one, Iā€™m in violation of the ā€œhe who has twoā€ rule.

Will send you a DM. Thanks for the clarifications!

160

:flushed:
Try transparent heat shrink in Google

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161

@thefreeman Iā€™m interested in purchasing one of your adapters but Iā€™m too new on the forum to DM, could you drop me a message please?

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