thanks for your reply
The clip in the middle of the light makes no sense to me.
In my opinion, Wurkkos should design the light with the pocket clip on the tail.
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Or make it reversible
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The factory clip just does not work. Too much sticks out , it slides out of any pocket way too easily, it’s not safe to carry unless you’re in the house where you can’t lose it.
The recent wizard 18650 clips don’t quite fit in the groove. Grind down the thickness of the clip a little bit to fit in the groove and I think it would be really nice. It holds pretty secure even though it’s not fully in the groove. Over the years the wizard clips have changed slightly in length and position of the band so you don’t know what you’re going to get if you buy one separately.
With some type c cables the cover needs to be pulled a little bit out of the way to get them in. And yeah the port is pretty crooked in there. So the bezel and the switch and the ring holding the magnet in the tail all appear to be pressed in.
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I have two Hank D2’s in rotation, one with clip in middle and one with clip on end. Sometimes I like the blinking RGB head sticking out of my pocket to make people ask “wth is that” lol, but other times I just want it deep in the pocket.
Reversible would have been the easy call, or make the tube have a “clip channel” on each end
I do plan to buy at least one, and probably a couple as gifts (needs USB to be a gift from me, and this seems like the best EDC-sized gift option now). Seems like a few cost-free changes would have made the light even better. I am a bit surprised at some of the easy misses Wurkkos has made here given all the feedback they received in this thread.
If LED swapping was feasible (or if, somehow, Wurkkos starts offering hank-level emitter customization) I would have bought a few more.
You’re not wrong - but I always find it’s better to directly state what I see the issues are.
@Wurkkos @Wurkkos_Terry I probably won’t buy this model if these issues mentioned above remain in the first production batch. Hopefully if they are sorted out in the V2, maybe then.
Two-piece box with a sleeve and magnetic closure on the inside. There are two spare o-rings in with the lanyard also. It’s a picture of the top of the sleeve and the end of the box and the specs are on the bottom of the sleeve.
Other than a cardboard piece telling you to remove the cardboard from the battery ,there was no other paperwork.
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Almost forgot.
It has all the auxiliary light colors. I turned on the red last night on the lowest setting and switched it to green this morning.
And I think I wrote down this version number correct.
212217251715
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I think you are forgetting the zeroes. Short blinks mean 0, and the blinking means a dash. Try recording a video of it, so you can rewatch it in half-speed
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I recorded it in slow motion. I’m not sure I understand the difference between a short blink and a blink. But maybe I don’t have any zeros so I’m not seeing two different blinks???
I’m going to write it out with B for blink and it could be a dash or it could be a zero.
2B22B725B715
Maybe somebody can decipher that or maybe I’m still doing something wrong.
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That would be a version that uses the old version format: 2022-07-25-0715
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Okay old version aside.
I decided to fix the tube so it’s safely reversible.
The first picture is their version of the top of the tube. The second picture is the bottom of the tube before I touched it. And then finally the bottom of the tube after I modified it. You can’t really see it in the picture but there’s still a lot of flat surface on the end of the tube. More than they left on the top of the tube. I took off a lot more than I probably needed to. You really only need to chamfer the inside edge a little bit to make it safe.
In pictures and video they provided less than 2 months ago they were still showing the clip placement slot at the bottom. With the tube reversed I still have to come up with a different clip though because the factory clip just does not work well.
On the bezel.
I put a little witness scrape on the bottom of the bezel and then did some pressure testing on various rubber surfaces to attempt to unscrew it in case it was screwed in without tools somehow. No go.
Again in pictures and the short video they put on YouTube less than 2 months ago the bezel still had indentations for tool use. By zooming in on those pictures and comparing it to this current pressed-in version, the bezel with the tool slots is definitely thicker and covers slightly more of the lens.
By experimenting with objects just barely intruding beyond the edge of this current bezel, even a little bit, it cuts into the wide field of view that that I currently get. So there is a tiny trade-off for a slightly wider bezel.
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Was trying to collect the data from mine for a review, and have been running into a few reliability issues. The light seems to go into LVP after about 10-15 mins of running, and drops to <1 lm - at this point, removing and testing the battery shows it still has plenty of charge (lowest observed 3.8V, highest 4.1V).
Alternatively, if I switch it off from the LVP mode, the main LEDs stay off and won’t switch back on, battcheck won’t work, etc.
Takes removing the battery and reinserting it to get it to reset and start working again, but this also doesn’t work every time, I’d say about 20-30% of the time it works and the other times either the aux come on but the main emitters don’t work, or everything stays off.
In a few of the tests I’ve done, I’ve also noticed that it did come on again after a few minutes, but only for 1-2 mins before LVPing again.
Each vertical gridline is 5 mins.
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Update: After the test run pictured, looks like it now doesn’t want to turn the main emitters on at all, with any battery.
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For a moment there I was like holy sht how have I not heard of a Toykeeperlamp awesome looking open source luminometer but alas it’s a big ol’ company, turns out.
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There was a thread about the group buy… 
I should probably post an update there but life in general is being a bit chaotic at the moment.
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I see. I haven’t been able to keep up too well lately too but for my personal purposes I wouldn’t be able to justify the price anyway and it wouldn’t fit my work use cases either.
Hmm, sounds like debris/dirt on the threads/contact surfaces? But I guess you’ve checked for that already.
This is rather concerning, hope you just got a single bad unit, and we’re not dealing with a larger design flaw.
Yep. If the battery wasn’t making contact, the aux wouldn’t work. If the contact was just marginal, higher levels wouldn’t work but moon still would, maybe with some flicker, but now the main emitters are 100% dead.
Someone on Reddit has the same issue: https://old.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/1csl2xu/luck_enough_to_get_a_hd10_but_unlucky_enough_that/
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Thanks for all the pics, everyone. Hopefully the final release won’t have the press fit bezel. But hey, no glass means, worst case, the bezel can be removed with perhaps some damage to the optic. Hopefully Wurkkos will keep spares and sell them to us!
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