Thanks Jon for your kind explanation. Will do the 7C.
Termsak
Thanks Jon for your kind explanation. Will do the 7C.
Termsak
Received my TS10 copper today.
The colored disco mode is definitely different.
Fortunately, like other TS10s the colored aux lights do have a “low” option. On low, they’re not obnoxious at all, but should still be sufficient for finding the light on a bedside table with dark-adapted eyes. From reading earlier posts I was thinking this version did not have a low option. Those posts were incorrect. It does have a low option accessible via 7-clicks.
As is expected of copper, the copper TS10 is much heavier than its aluminum variants. The copper TS10 weighs 76.0 grams without battery, and about 98 grams with battery. I have single 18650 lights that weigh less with their battery installed.
congratulations
thanks for the “Dim Disco” and weight details…
its a low red and green blink, not bad
Probably the voltage is to low to switch the blue LED on.
(LEDs of different colors need different voltages to start)
yes i know… but i’m surprised about the green
try to unscrew and screw the flashlight a couple of times
I done it a ton. I have had mine for almost a week now. does the same thing on the body of my silver ts10.
What batteries do you use? Have you a picture of them?
Vapecell h10(flat), the wurkkos house brand(button) and skywolfeye(button)… 6 different cells… 3 different types. All the same… and they are charged… sooooo… its not the battery… its not the tube and button… I have cleaned the threads many times… So that means its the contact with board and the head… or the is a problem with the pcb.
Also, make sure you clean the ends of both tubes and the area where they contact the driver. I had problems with one of mine. A good cleaning (pencil eraser followed by 90+ % alcohol and lint free swabs). Then screw the head very tight then loosen it a few times. End up by tightening it quite tight. This fixed my problem with the TS10.
I have done that… both threads and any surface that makes connection. That I can with out a complete tear down of the head. I used to vape with the mech mod tubes. So cleaning is normal for me.
Which I am going to do at some point to change the aux leds
The last flashlight left, take whoever you want!
it all depends on your luck
The inner tube does not make contact, either at the head or the tail. This can happen when… (descending order of likelihood)
So the first thing to try is cleaning the contacts and use a shorter battery. The original battery with a length of 50 mm (including the button) should work, but longer batteries might cause trouble.
If this doesn’t work, I fear you have to disassemble the tailcap and check the contacts on that side. It might be glued and make sure to not loose any parts.
Yeah, I used some 1200 grit sand paper to clean mine. Both inner and outer tube ends. Forgot to mention that. I suppose one could pull the inner tube out and sand/clean both ends. Anyway, mine is working now. Glad I did not have to pull the tail cap apart.
I tried it with my other ts10 body/tube which works… ANd it still doesnt work. but my other ts10 head does work with the copper body tube… so its in the head. either the poor connection at the head pcb for the neg or its a bad trace on the board…
They are just replacing the copper light… yay…
edit…nope… they told me it was an error… and they are sending a brass one instead. sad face.
You just need to change out the leds… I just got some for my fw3a and the auto rgb of the copper… So I will be tearing down my copper to fix it. or attempt too. its a bit frustrating
I got lucky and snagged 1 copy of this Cu TS10… luckily. I checked AE after seeing this thread and they were sold out. I checked again 2 or 3 times over a few days and they must have found some more. They were back in stock! I placed my order for one and it was accepted. Luckee! Checking my order and viewing the page again, they were gone.
The disco lights aren’t bad at all on low. However, I did find a difference in the Cu model vs. Al. It’s strange that there’s a difference. When checking the battery voltage (3C from off) with the battery at 3.5v, the check does not repeat like it does on the Al version. It only reports once and goes back to disco. Also, if you repeat the 3C check it sometimes incorrectly reports 4.0v. It is random but is pretty easily reproduced. Just keep checking with a few seconds between checks.
Otherwise the light is normal (so far). Version check (15C) is 2022 07 19 07 14. Same version as is on a Al which does not do this (does not repeat voltage check nor error voltage ). Is it just my copy?
Edit: I found that this occurs in the simple UI only. Turns out that the 4.0v was correct and the 3.5v is incorrect. Checked with DMM. So I reset the light. The simple UI reports voltage once. The advanced repeats. The error voltage is gone and now reports 4.0v consistently. I had a couple custom settings - memory mode manual, ceiling and floor settings. So, false alarm I guess. I’m happy.