Well, then it’s fortunate I don’t have that many of them Actually I’m still at the ‘can count’em all on my fingers’ phase of flasholism. Guess it’s better to become a tint-snob sooner rather than later
But if you start swapping LEDs (which is usually quite easy) then all you need to do is stock up on 519A LEDs
Oh my… must… resist…
Minus green is about the easiest and cheapest mod to try if tint does happen to be bothering you.
About that: doesn’t the light have to be disassembled in order to put the film inside the optics? My thinking is that placing the film outside will expose it to the elements, dust, abrasion etc and rather soon it will need to be replaced.
And if I need to spend the time and effort of disassemble the light, I could as well do a LED swap and… oh… wait…
In the case of the TS10, it doesn’t have glass in front of the optic so it would have to go on the outside. You would cut it large enough that the bezel lip holds it in place (and remove the bezel to install it).
I accidentally scratched an optic when it was disassembled on my workbench during a mod. So for the TS10, minus green would actually protect the optic from scratches
Good points, all of them. And I may have to disassemble the bezel of my incoming TiTS10 anyway for other reasons, so I might as well take the opportunity to place the film under its lip.
Well, guess I have quite a few things to occupy my mind while I wait for my TiTS10 to arrive
I guess hard. The titanium’s thermal conductivity is worse than the aluminum. We are trying a new method to add a copper structure replace the titanium.
All of my aluminum TS10’s and my stock CuTS10 live on the BBL. And while not-green, I am a bit spoiled by my 219b-swapped CuTS10, and a pile of Hanklights that is either 219b or a dome/dedome mix.
Soldering was my least-favorite part of R/C cars as a kid, and something us EM’s were explicitly told to pass off to the ET’s in A-school. Any emitter swaps I do involve shipping and PayPal.
I consider the TS10 to be a baby KR4 anyways, so why not be like it’s alleged daddy and use a copper head with a titanium bezel/tube/tailcap?
I realize it’s a little older thread. I have TS10v2 copper purchased last month and a new TS10Ti with copper insert on the way. Is it still recommended to reduce ceiling to 120/150 and disable turbo? My only concern is not to damage the leds/electronics.
Would appreciate comments from @Wurkkos_Terry as well as I don’t know what firmware changes were made to probably address this issue and decrease output on Turbo. Thanks.
Is this the recommendation? At least for TS10 V2 with CSP 4000k, I would like to keep ceiling at 150 because, first and obviously, for brightness, but second, for a beautiful beam. CSP 4000k color rendering is not-so-good green at lower level and most beautiful at Turbo.
All these small lights are going to step down instantly with Turbo. With that realization, I prefer to use the next level down, Turbo-1, then Turbo momentarily so I don’t miss out the full capability of the light. I prefer not to throttle max capability. That’s my vote anyway; I understand each use case is different.
That’s what I made from this thread, that turbo can damage the LEDs as they are driven too hard on this model. Though I assume this thread is for older TS10 version, Ti without copper, not v2 one. So wondering if such limitation is still recommended for latest all copper 3000k and Ti+Copper 4000k v2 ones.
Firmware 0000-2024-04-20 is the 50% FET version. It was built for the Copper TS10 V2. It should be safe to use Turbo on lights with that firmware, and you dont need to change the default ceiling.
If your TiCu comes w any other firmware, it will have a 100% FET version, probably 0713-2023-07-29. I would disable Turbo and use a ceiling of 120.
Yes, for firmware 0713-2023-07-29, which could be on your TiCuTS10. You should do a version check to confirm.
No, for firmware 0000-2024-04-20, which is on the CuTS10.
Thank you for the explanation. My Black Friday V2 received just a few days ago measures (preliminary) around 1250 lm for Turbo and the light is advertised as 1400 lm. But it’s normal for companies to inflate max brightness so it doesn’t seem like Turbo level has been changed yet?
That seems like a dilemma for this extremely fun light: low output very green, high output very hot. Just eyeballing against Nichia 219b torture test, it doesn’t seem the green really goes away until level T-1 or T-2, around 600-700 lm? At that level the light still gets hot quickly.
The right side of the picture above with the beautiful tint was at 1000 lm.
Yes. My Green has 5 stepped modes. Very preliminary measurement of my light’s Simple Mode:
moonlight-13-100-500-1000 lm EDIT: please see more accurate measurements a couple post down.
The right side picture above was taken at that 1000 lm.
No it does not. It is less. Preliminary measurements of advanced:
moonlight-5-26-95-330-660-880-1250 Turbo (highest readings of a few tries)
I’ve only started playing with this very cute and good light for a few minutes so not sure of anything yet. The output measurements fluctuate A LOT and QUICKLY with heat so I am not sure about the measurements yet. Like I don’t know whether that 880 ceiling is true, or it’s the 1000 of simple mode stepping down. I think it is true 880 but give me more time.
EDIT: Correction made - candle to moonlight - thank you Jon for helping me not to look like a noob, which I am anyway.
I suspect the simple mode ceiling and the advanced ceiling are the same (guessing 130/150 but not sure), subject to the rapid loss of output due to battery sag and voltage drop
your info is good enough to confirm that simple mode ceiling is not set to 150, which is equal to Turbo… thank you
terminology, the lowest mode is usually called Moonlight. The term Candle Mode is for the flickering feature at 3H from Off. Candle Mode is one of the Strobes, if you do 2C while in Candle Mode, the light advances to the next strobe type (Bicycle Strobe, etc)…
Congrats on your TS10, I have a lot of fun with mine, Im glad youre enjoying yours too.
I re-measured the highest output levels under more controlled condition with higher n, 6 to 8, for each level. Revised Simple UI: moonlight-13-100-500-825 Advanced: moonlight-5-26-95-330-660-800-1100 (Turbo)
I used a full Vapcell H10, and wait 20-30 minutes between runs. Fairly confident of results but after all I’m still an amateur using amateur equipment. I would be curious to see what Wurkkos says.
Thanks for candle - moonlight correction; I make noob mistake like that all the time and only you take time to correct me. BTW, using a no name battery drops output a lot, I’m still checking but looks like it’s about 30% @ Simple UI’s ceiling level.
Actually I’m still at the ‘can count’em all on my fingers’ phase of flasholism. Guess it’s better to become a tint-snob sooner rather than later 
Just eyeballing against Nichia 219b torture test, it doesn’t seem the green really goes away until level T-1 or T-2, around 600-700 lm? At that level the light still gets hot quickly.
