Wurkkos TS10 Ti (v2) much more aggressive thermal stepdown compared to regular TS10?

Well, then it’s fortunate I don’t have that many of them :wink: Actually I’m still at the ‘can count’em all on my fingers’ phase of flasholism. Guess it’s better to become a tint-snob sooner rather than later :wink:

But if you start swapping LEDs (which is usually quite easy) then all you need to do is stock up on 519A LEDs :slight_smile:

Oh my… must… resist… :smile:

Minus green is about the easiest and cheapest mod to try if tint does happen to be bothering you.

About that: doesn’t the light have to be disassembled in order to put the film inside the optics? My thinking is that placing the film outside will expose it to the elements, dust, abrasion etc and rather soon it will need to be replaced.

And if I need to spend the time and effort of disassemble the light, I could as well do a LED swap and… oh… wait… :rofl:

In the case of the TS10, it doesn’t have glass in front of the optic so it would have to go on the outside. You would cut it large enough that the bezel lip holds it in place (and remove the bezel to install it).

I accidentally scratched an optic when it was disassembled on my workbench during a mod. So for the TS10, minus green would actually protect the optic from scratches :wink:

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Good points, all of them. And I may have to disassemble the bezel of my incoming TiTS10 anyway for other reasons, so I might as well take the opportunity to place the film under its lip.

Well, guess I have quite a few things to occupy my mind while I wait for my TiTS10 to arrive :wink:

I guess hard. The titanium’s thermal conductivity is worse than the aluminum. We are trying a new method to add a copper structure replace the titanium. :thinking:

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this could be a popular option

(not my photo)
I do not know if the copper head raises sustainable output by a meaningful amount.

imo the all TiTS10 works fine for indoor distances. It will sustain 200 lumens, which is more than enough at indoor distances.

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Yep, the copper head will make the driver come safer. Just like the plastic bag can’t burn if fill water.

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Anyone get a runtime on the lowest of the 7 levels in advanced mode?

All of my aluminum TS10’s and my stock CuTS10 live on the BBL. And while not-green, I am a bit spoiled by my 219b-swapped CuTS10, and a pile of Hanklights that is either 219b or a dome/dedome mix.

Soldering was my least-favorite part of R/C cars as a kid, and something us EM’s were explicitly told to pass off to the ET’s in A-school. Any emitter swaps I do involve shipping and PayPal.

I consider the TS10 to be a baby KR4 anyways, so why not be like it’s alleged daddy and use a copper head with a titanium bezel/tube/tailcap?