Wurkkos TS10SG First Impressions

Received TS10SG

Firmware is 713-2023-07-29, factory Defaults:

Arrives in Advanced Smooth ramping w Red Aux on High. Post Off Voltage Display enabled, no Smooth Steps.

I did a factory reset and the Aux changed to Blue on Low, in Voltage Display mode. (iow, someone had changed the Aux to Red High before shipping)

Battery check default uses Aux on Voltage Display Color. I changed it to Red.

There seemed to be no lube on O ring and threads, I added some Nyogel 760G, which made it easier to screw the light shut over the O ring.

7 Stepped modes in Advanced, 5 stepped modes in Simple.

Battery at 3.9V (single decimal Voltage)
Simple Ceilings are 750 lumens (130/150), Floors are 1 lumen

Advanced Ceiling in Stepped mode is 750 lumens (130/150), Turbo is 1000 lumens, Stepped floor is 1 lumen.

Advanced ceiling in Smooth ramping is 1000 lumens (150/150), Turbo is 1000 lumens. Floor is <0.01 lumens

(disclaimer, my lumen meter is homebrew and reads low, especially at max output, plus the output tests were done w the battery as received, not fully charged)

I think its a great little thrower, waiting for dark to do a bit more testing.

Compared to my MAO TS10 V1 modded by MasterNate to sw45k:

another view of the beam, that only shows the hotspot:


imo the little Tir works very well for its intended purpose and the little pearls on the Fresnel lens eliminates any rings in the perimeter.

Yes it has flashing pads:

Future plans:
After I play with it tonight to see the stock beam, I will be tempted to change the LED… maybe to sw45k, not sure yet.

I will probably also reflash to the newest Anduril with Smooth Steps, and two digit voltage check.

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First thing I thought when I saw the DUV and CRI numbers was that you would not like it much…

Mine was in Advanced smooth ramp mode. Power off aux was multi color. Also, interestingly, mine shows only two digit voltage check.
Please don’t ask me to check the version… it makes me crazy to keep the count correctly while recording it .

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Duv looks like they used a green LED by accident. :nauseated_face:

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I already did, so you dont need to :wink:
the reason the battery check is to one decimal is because the firmware date is from before 2 decimal Voltage was added to Anduril.

btw, I reflashed, and everything went smoothly… no issues

bear in mind Im only using an Opple 3… your test equipment will probably produce a different DUV number :wink:

But yes, it is normal that an SFT25 has green tint… thats why it is so bright :wink:

fwiw, the sample koef3 tested with his equipment had a DUV of just 0.0010… a CRI Ra of 70, and a cct of 7204. (the Opple gave it a ridiculously high DUV of 0.0152, a CRI Ra of 59, and a CCT of 5500, but Opple is not very accurate with cool white LEDs). Otoh, yes, the Tint looks green to my eyes, whatever the actual DUV might be.

What did you flash it to?

I used a custom hex based on 2023-12-03 created by @worlfgirl42 with mometary mode deleted from Advanced mode, and blinkies deleted from simple mode.

otherwise I would have just used the latest 2024-04-20 from Toykeeper. tip, to eliminate momentary mode, we can use Simple Mode, which does not have momentary. It does have blinkies in Simple Mode, not a big deal for me either way…

I normally disable Turbo in Advanced mode options, and I lower the ceiling to 120/150, which in the TS10SG gives about 450 lumens.

Note that the biggest issue w the stock 2023-07-29 firmware is that Advanced Smooth ramping has the ceiling set to 150/150, while all the other ceilings are set to 130/150 by default, which gives about 750 lumens. I consider that too high, as the light warms up quickly, and the output steps down to about 417 lumens within the first minute.

To my suprise the stock LED seems to be able to maintain about 417 lumens for at least a 90 seconds, but it gets pretty hot, so Im not planning to test it for any longer.

Eventually someone like zeroair will hopefully do a full runtime graph from Turbo, so we can see where the output stabilizes, with his more accurate lumen meter.

btw, here is a wall beam comparison at 4 feet from the wall:

And now that it is getting dark, here are some beamshots outdoors, the bench is 50 feet away:
control shot:

TS10SG set to 250 lumens:

and TS10 V1 w sw45k also set to 250 lumens:

Photo Album

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I wonder if it’s an artifact of how the optic works, or if the tint was just particularly bad.

Hopefully it’s just the LED, that way it can be improved with a swap to a better-binned SFT25R or a W2.

bear in mind Im only using an Opple 3… color munki will probably produce a different DUV number :wink:

fwiw, the SFT25 sample koef3 tested with his equipment:
f93752049859d547a1ddcad2c7a4
had a DUV of just 0.0010… a CRI Ra of 69, and a cct of 7204

My Opple 3 gave it a ridiculously high DUV of 0.0152 (that I dont believe), a CRI Ra of 59, and a CCT of 5500, but Opple is not very accurate, especially with cool white Low CRI LEDs).

Otoh, yes, the Tint looks green to my eyes, whatever the actual DUV might be.

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Luminus CW LEDs tend to have gigantic variation between batches and so. I have almost-neutral SST-20 5000k and also have some SST-40 5000k that may as well be PC green.

I hope it is just that particular emitter, since Convoy’s SFT25R seem to be clean tinted.

It is definitely greenish, but nothing abnormal for a cool white, Low CRI LED imo…

What the SFT25 does well, is throw

For more realistic DUV data, lets wait for someone with a colormunki report of their TS10SG.

did you try the ts10sg bezel and optic on your ts10 v1 ??

curious tonsee the result :wink:

I would be afraid of crushing the domed triple sw45k LEDs in my modified TS10 V1. I do not have a stock TS10 triple. I do have one w DeDomed 519a, but I dont want to risk that either.

The SFT is very flat. I am afraid that the TS25SG optic might sit too close to use a domed LED.

I did remove the TS10SG bezel and optic to look at the mcpcb in hopes of removing it to reflow an sw45k.

There are some really thin wires to the Aux and Im not comfortable disassembling the mcpcb.

The TS10SG optic might work w an sw45k. The ring on the optic (black arrow) might rest on the mcpcb , before the dome would get pressed against the optic:

For now, I do not consider my TS10SG modable, with my limited micro soldering skills. I would need to buy a fine tip for my iron.

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Mine doesn’t seem nearly as green looking as yours. At least by the pictures you posted. Especially this one:

I need to drag out the Opple and see what mine reads.

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Mine looks fairly neutral to my eyes as well. Have to find my Opple again so I can measure.

I tried to remove the bezel on mine but was unable to with my hands.
I’m pretty sure mine is glued.
I have strap wrenches but I’ve damaged lights in the past when using them.

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The one @jon_slider disassembled shows a bunch of glue in his photo above.
Jon, did you have to heat the thing?

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No, but I was getting ready to, and that is definitely a good idea.

that photo exaggerates
here is a less worrysome one:

that would not be necessarily very helpful… no offense to you, I just dont trust Opple. What we need is a real spectrometer test.

mine definitely was:

straps did not work for me, I used wrenches:

I keept the body attached to support the head threads and managed not to crush the head into an oval. (which I have unfortunately done in the past)

thanks for your Opple 3 DUV measurement of 0.0108

fwiw I dont trust the Opple to be accurate for DUV, particularly with Cool White Low CRI.

koef3 tested an SFT25 at DUV 0.0010…
f93752049859d547a1ddcad2c7a4

That is a far cry from the results you and I are getting, well above 10 times higher (over 0.0100).

That is why Im waiting for someone with a real spectrometer, to test a TS10SG.

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I was entertaining myself with the TS10SG Aux lights and made a video about battery voltage check features:

the video wont play for me on BLF, but the link to view it on youtube works

I think the TS10SG Tir makes some really fun Aux patterns :wink:
(Im easily amused… LOL!)

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It plays for me

thanks for letting me know

seems my old imac is becoming inevitably obsolete

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