Have you tried using double sided duct tape ? Like this acrylic one.
Thanks for the teardown, it is much appreciated. Looks like it should fit a dedomed 519a without much trouble, and an XP-P 3000k should be a drop-in swap.
Those look like the same thickness as the TS10v2 aux wires, should definitely be doable with a fine tip iron and some fine-point tweezers if you’re careful not to peel the insulation off.
I do things similarly when doing a disassembly, but I use channelocks for one of them so that I can better gauge the pressure.
I recommend using some heat as well, it loosens the glue a lot. Kept me from ovaling out my FW1A bezel, it had a ton of glue.
I have not, but glad it works for you… 
agree about DD 519a, and I think an XPP is also a great option.
Here is the beam of XPP in a TS10 Triple, (mod thanks to MasterNate):
Also agree Heat really helps soften the loctite… that would have been my next move if the bezel had not come loose without heat.
I have not bought a fine tip for my iron, but I might at some point.
I look forward to your success modding your TS10SG, and will be very interested in seeing your results
Im tempted to try to replace the SFT25 without disassemby, by using hot air… but Im undecided. Meanwhile, I will shop for a fine tip for my TS80
Im not a fan of Low CRI LEDs, so Im not planning to use the TS10SG as is.
I took a photo of my leg, injured by my cat when he slipped while jumping out of my lap, to show the difference between the SFT25 and some sw45k in my TS10 triple (mod thanks to MasterNate)
Low CRI throw, vs High CRI flood, at very close range:
To be fair to Wurkkos, the TS10SG is not intended for close range illumination, and it is perfectly suitable for its intended purpose as an outdoor thrower. In fact, Low CRI just makes green leaves greener and arguably prettier…
I will have to wait until it releases so I can buy one.
I’ll probably replace the emitter if it has as green of a tint as yours, as I find DUV>0.0100 way too green. I’ll probably keep it stock otherwise, but I might consider a second to 519a swap.
As far as soldering, I use a Pinecil with the “coarse” set of tips, which covers basically everything used in flashlight modding, ironically also including a very fine pointed conical tip perfect for the aux wires.
I’d be worried about overdriving a single XPP. Their max current is about 4A and IIRC they get pronounced tint shift as they near it. IMO, they are a little underwhelming as a single.
I haven’t seen much on the SFT-25 5000K but there’s a chance it has good tint.
W2 is an option for a throwy led with ok tint that can handle the current. Only in a cool CCT of course.
Does an SST-20 out-throw a dedomed 519A? I want to say it does but perhaps not by all that much. I recently got some of the good bin 3000K and they’re pretty nice (KD sells them).
AFAIK they also have a higher Vf than a W1 and the W1 was direct-driven off a 14500 in the Lumintop FW1AA without trouble. I can just use a lower current battery instead of an H10 if it fries itself or turns bluish on turbo.
A W1 or W2 should work, with the W2 being a similar beam to the stock SFT25R, but being 3030 they will probably be harder to center.
They’re about equal, but 519a is just a tiny bit more, at least from my testing with a Wurkkos TS21 (SST-20 4000k vs 519A 5700k dedomed). It probably depends on the optic-emitter matchup because of how close they are, it was less than 10% difference in intensity.
When will it be available?
I started seeing these posts and I was trying to figure out where I can get one?! Ahhh! I really really want one! I have the SFT-25 and it really is green. I kinda hate that, but it does throw far and is quite efficient. I’d probably wanna swap to a W1 or W2 in this particular light. Can’t wait till I can order it!
The swap looks pretty challenging… I ordered a fine tip for my iron in hopes of being able to work with the tiny Aux wires.
otherwise, consider that a thrower used outside around vegetation, just makes the Leaves and Grass look Greener… not necessarily a bad thing… lol
My first time doing Aux wires I wasn’t really looking forward to it, but turns out it’s really wasn’t as difficult as I thought it’d be. I try to get all the old lead free solder off the pads then tin them with some 63/37. I’ve found using a relatively large tip, 2.4mm chisel, easier to get good joints than a smaller conical. Of course I also use a healthy amount of tacky flux too.
koef3 recently tested a TS10SG at DUV 0.0066
I have had a lot of success using Smallrig type clamps (from Ali) for bezel removal that also get used in the standard way as well. They are very useful on the small bezels and very inexpensive.
Decided to swap in a High CRI LED:
photo album w modding sequence
waiting for dark, to see if the new LED throws more than a Triple TS10
before and after:
Update
received a TS10SG Red w Snowflakes
firmware is 0713-2023-07-29
3C battery check gives 3.9V
Default ceiling is 750 lumens in Advanced stepped ramping and it is set to level 130/150. Advanced smooth ramping has a ceiling of 990 lumens, and it is set to level 150/150 (my meter underestimates at high outputs).
BeAware that Advanced Smooth ceiling is set to Turbo on firmware 2023-07-29
In Simple mode Stepped ramping ceiling gives 735 lumens, which is level 130/150. Smooth ramp ceiling gives 728 lumens, also level 130/150.
I changed the Advanced Stepped ramping ceiling to level 100/150 and it now produces 386 lumens
reflash firmware update:
because this firmware 2023-07-29, has advanced smooth ceiling set to 150, I went ahead and loaded the 50% FET firmware 0000-2024-04-20 from MAO TS10V2 instead. this gives a ceiling of 450 and is using level 130/150 and gives a turbo of 640 lumens (I disable it)
Received mine too:
It is a fun light - AUX look interesting, in disco mode this light will work nicely for the holidays…
Main emitter… mine is not very green, but trying to use it made me understand just how much i hate low CRI high CCT light. It has very nice output and throw for the size, but i do not see myself using it much. I’ll likely leave it as is for now, in hopes that WW high CRI SFT25R might happen at some point.
I am not too concerned about turbo on this one, SFT25R is sturdy enough to handle it (and i do not have any high drain 14500). I’ll likely leave it on unlike other TS10, because that impressive output, even if for relatively short time, is the only redeeming quality of this emitter. I did set ceiling to 130 though, because that’s more sustainable than 150 and works nicely as “high”.
The switch is still much worse than it was on TS10v1, but much more usable than one i got in TS10v2 copper…
I did fun (but totally unfair) comparison with TS22 XHP70.3 5000K R9050 i commonly use as walking light, and funnily enough with temperature limit set to 60C and in current outdoor conditions (~ -10C, strong wind) TS10SG was able to subjectively match high setting of TS22 and last long enough like this for a few minute walk to the car. Absolutely murders the battery though, but still very impressive.
Congrats and thanks for the nice photo
and your comments and impressions
I feel the same way, High CRI is the only way I want to Fly.
Today I did a mod to High CRI XPP.
night shots
The light on the right, TS10SG w XPP 4000K High CRI, seems to throw better (more lux on target) than stock TS10SG Low CRI on left
I would say the TS10SG w XPP 4000K (on right) illuminates the bench better than the SFT25 (on left), And the XPP is High CRI, and shows the wall with richer color
Jon, do you have an FW1AA to compare to the TS10 SG? I’d be curious to see the difference.
no I do not have an FW1AA, or I would be happy to help
I hope you find someone that does…
This person might have the type of info you seek. Or others in that thread might be able to help, if you post your question there
