Did you get the 26800 that can be ordered with the light?
Any chance to do a quick output test with it? I know the current capabilities are much less than good 21700 cells. I got one with my light order and also a couple of the QB26800s.
Sure hope I don’t kill them with the Valkyrie. But hoping that at lower modes the runtime will be worth it.
Did it come with a 26800 to 21700 adapter?
Just curious.
I used NDNA for 15% off.
But ND25F appears to be a larger diacount. Try that first to see if it still works.
You can use the 26800 just fine. It just doesnt get as bright.
Yeah. I am not worried about the 26800 catching fire or anything. At or above their max current rating they will tend to get hot. I also believe that maxing them out regularly will cut down significantly on their cycle life. Not a big deal maybe, but a fact.
I was just curious if @cannga had tested the available 26800 as we have already seen some of the numbers with some of the best 21700s available. A good data point, I think.
It came with the best kind of adapter imo. A tube with head end open, tail end closed with a built in metal button. Same as the adapter with my Lumintop and not available separately anywhere. I think you will like it a lot.
Very very prelim testing, esp with QB as I’m not sure it was completely charged:
My third/latest Mystery Lishen: 13000
One of my three P45B: 12400
QB gold: 11000
Some notes about some quirks or “special features” 
of this light for owners. Will be updated as I familiarize myself with the light. Expect changes in this post pls.
1. First “special features” noted : Mine only charges with Quick Charge power brick. I only found out when the measured outputs using the Mystery Lishen battery kept going downhill. The more I charged and re-measured the more it went down. Pushed me into this WT* mood - yet another defective light from Neal - until I realized battery hasn’t been recharged at all.
2. And it requires me to single click to start charging. Mea culpa but I shouldn’t be faulted for this weird one lol. It is actually red inked in the RTFM:
Single click: button flashing red 4A
Double click: button flahsing red and blue 6A
Tripple click: button flashing blue 8.5A
I saw something like 20 watts on my energy monitor thingy. This high current charging is not good for batteries, isn’t it? (Any expert pls explain.)
3. Lens is AR w/ green reflection, like my Nightwatch Chaos. Only brand besides Convoy that’s doing this.
4. There is LVP: at 3 volts the indicator light turns red and output goes down, at around 2.85 volts indicator started flashing red. Then apparently light shuts down at some point but I didn’t test this. But… the important point is even with LVP activated, there is still this parasitic drain of 1.98 mA that will continue even after LVP is triggered. 1.98 mA is not desirable, but not that bad and will take a while to drain battery empty, but it’s there so crack open rear cap if you have many lights and not keeping track of status of Super V regularly.
5. My light’s button needed to be twisted in tight. I used one of those ring pliers so as not to scratch it - “IRWIN VISE-GRIP Convertible Snap Ring Pliers.” Speaking of button, the double click has to be very quick, almost too quick. I got better after numerous output measurements so double click now is easier for me. Tripple click is still hard.
Despite of these quirks or unsual features, I am fast becoming a big fan of Nightwatch. Metal plate bypass of rear cap’s spring, green AR lens, monstrous outputs if lasting only seconds, all the weird stuffs; it’s like a box of chocolate. 
Yes… click to charge is a bit strange. I am sure I would have missed it too.
As for the charging rate. 4/6/8.5 Amp rate seems high, especially if you tend to observe the 0.5C rule. (which would be 1.5 amps for the 3Ah Lishen HP cell, yes?)
But these rates are input to the charging circuit, which is lossy. It would be more useful to know what current is being applied to the cell.
The changing is misleading. It won’t charge at 6 or 8 amps. I only saw a max of 20 watts using a 45 watt charger. 8A is a lot, even for a 26800, vut 8 dount this light would supply that. I’ll test irnwith an empty battery though. Maybe it makes a difference?
Yes charging current does seem to decrease as battery becomes fuller. Highest I saw was 22 watts.
I took a picture to “commemorate” this momentous occasion . That this Nightwatch Super Valkyrie is available for 70 bucks probably is something unimaginable just few years ago.
Recommended for the technical achievement, this amazing output, even if lasting just seconds. This light is bonkers.
Please note you need to use high-power batteries such as Nealsgadgets’ Mystery Lishen to obtain this output. Molicel P45B is another one that comes very close to 13000 and hence actually more desirable because of its higher capacity.
Any plans for runtime tests ?
Will be working on those this week or next week. Stay tuned to 1Lumen
I do, trust me 
You’re willing to call the Wurkkos TS30S a 1KM super thrower? Seems generous.
@TimMc in his excellent review of big brother Nightwatch Chaos noted the quirk below about continuous parasitic drain even after LVP is activated.
It appears the Super V has similar behavior. Although drain is said to be much lower at 1.5 mA (iirc). Owners are advised to crack open rear cap when not in use.
Manual has an explanation for why this is so. It sounds gibberish to me as electronics is not my field of expertise. I will post it later so maybe some expert here could explain for me.
There is low voltage protection but the battery might drain to 0V if you leave it on for a few days. The torch started flashing around 5.93V to indicate that the voltage is low. It turned off at 5.82V and a current of 53mA continued to be drawn.
See the quote below. Yes I will test but don’t expect anything better. If sustained output is what you’re looking for this is not the place. 
Any number of regulated lower output lights will be better.
A bright burning light generates heat and will down regulate quickly. Nothing surprising. There are ways around this but it’s going to cost a bit more than 70 bucks.
OTOH if you have never had a 10000 lumen lights, it will be a glorious 15 seconds and well worth it. Nothing to stop you from turbo-lighting up in bursts either.
“The 1Lumen review of the Rattlesnake shows the output dropping from claimed 16K lumens to 1K in a mere 15 seconds. It must be a glorious 15 seconds, though…”
Actually, I don’t really care about 17k lumen output, I’m interested to see the different curves, sustained or not for the first 30 mins. The gen 1 TS30S is a good example. Based on zeroair tests, I consider this light beying able to sustain at least 1700 lumens during the first 30 mins. I thinks it’s good.
If the Nightwatch Super Valkyrie is pushing 17k for 15 secs, great. But if it goes down to only 400 lumens for the next 29 mins or so, then it’s a deal breaker for me.
The following is from the manual if any expert here could make sense out of it. What is “charge pump boost scheme”? My guess is that high-power charging mechanism is the reason for the parasitic drain?
“The charge pump boost scheme is used in the flashlight part. So there is a static current of about 1.5 ma flashlight for a long time or after using the battery, please be sure to loosen the tail cover!”
BTW I measured 1.98 mA for my Super V’s parasitic drain.
I should clarify that there is LVP in the Super V. At 3 volts the indicator light turns red and output goes down, at around 2.85 volts it started flashing red. Then apparently shuts down but I didn’t test this. But… the important point is even with LVP activated, there is still this parasitic drain.
At least, although 2 mA is not that desirable, it’s not a disaster and much lower than the drain in big brother Nightwatch Chaos.
For those new to this hobby, for reference my Emisar D4V2’s drain of aux lights + button on bright mode is ~1.5 mA, and Convoy blue metal button in S21D is ~ 1 mA or less.
Outputs with different batteries, measured with Texas Ace lumen tube. Battery was charged to full before test. I ran test several times to observe trend and range. Highest output for each battery is shown. The results reflect the range very well. For example, Molicel’s output is very high, but never crossed 13000 mark.
Nealsgadgets Lishen 2170HP 13090 lm
Molicel P45B Grade A 12710 lm
Samsung 30T 12320 lm
Gold Queen Battery 26800 11610 lm
Samsung 40T 10790
Nothing surprising, the Nealsgadgets Lishen 2170HP takes top place again and produces the world record 
for single LED consumer light at 13000 lm. This Lishen is my third one from Nealsgadgets. Of the 3 Lishen, there is one that gives higher output than the other 2 when tested with another light, the Mateminco PD30s, but unfortunately it is too long from the button top and I can’t use it with the Super V. It starts making that crunchy noise like the top would cave in when I tried.
