I’m not sure if this is what you’re asking but the TK75 won’t throw further than the TK70.
The question is whether a TN31 will beat a TK70 or not (I still haven’t come across throw numbers for the TK70).
Although HKJ’s charts indicate that the TK70 throws further than an SR90, and selfbuilt’s charts indicate a SR90 just edges out the TN31. There isn’t any consistency since they’re taken with two different people and instruments so I’m still interested to see if the TK70 will out-throw the TN31.
I quite confident the TK75 is not designed to out-throw the 70. What I was meaning to say is that ILF is awaiting delivery of his TK75, then we can see the difference between the 2, and adding into the mix is his awaited TN31, a pure thrower at that.
Ok this is just for grins. And I’m gonna post both of these so you can see just how well the big halogen spotlight lights up not only the pool wall but the trees past the electric pole in the last photo at a different angle and the pole as well. Now this ought to prove once and for all how many more lux this thing puts out over the K40 and TK70. How many more that is I don’t know, but you can easily say it just about triples them and then some.
I could be wrong, but it looks to me like the downward angle of the beam in relationship to the camera on the K40 pic, coupled with the intensity and concentration of the beam and the way its interacting with the moisture in the air is causing the beam to actually block the camera from seeing tree detail behind the hotspot. I’ve noticed that when the air is dense, I can see a lot more detail with my L3 K40 if I keep the light as low as possible so as not to light the haze up any more than I have to. The huge “light sabre” effect, while visually impressive, obscures detail if you look down it, or through it. I’ve noticed that my 2D Mag LED, with its super tight hot spot, excites the moisture in the air far less than my G5 Maelstrom, K40, and Stanley HID. I don’t know if this makes any sense or not. The light I believe you would love the most is the MaxaBeam.
And just for you I’m gonna go take another photo of the K40 aiming directly at the trees. I think you will see that the TK70 still beats it after I am done.
Thanks for the shots. When you add the TK75 and TN31 you will have shown all the lights I am interested in buying except the Shocker. So that means you have to go ahead and order the Shocker so I will know for sure which light I want to buy. LOL
And I wanted to add that the SR51 should of been taken after the TK41 for throw since I put them in what order I thought would be better. But I already knew the SR51 in recent outings beat the TK41 by a slight margin accrording to my camera and my eyes.
I’m gonna post the new photos in just a bit. And Bruce may be right. The hotspot is definately tighter on the K40. We shall see in these new photos aimed directly on the last pole.
You may be right. The K40 sure looks to light the pole up better in the last 2 photos. The trees behind the electric pole look to be lit up better as well in that sample over the TK70.
Gosh… that must have taken some effort on your part.
Many thanks ILIKE…
It’s true: when the camera is directly behind the flashlight, much of the time we’re looking thru the beam at the (distant) target.
This will obscure the actual illumination of the target somewhat. It’s better to have the flashlight off to one side (if possible) and then we
can see the actual amount of light falling on the target. For practical purposes, it’s better if you had someone to assist you; one to operate the
camera, and one to handle the lights.
Just a small note. Since the lights are aimed at the pool and the K40 has a smaller hot spot (and less spill) than the TK70, less light from the K40 hits the trees at 210 yards so it might not be fair to compare the lights throw based on that.
Most of the time the shots I take are up high above the camera and just a little bit behind it. It usually works most of the time. But I agree that side shots will probably work better. I’ll remember this. I used 2 sec timer on all of those photos. And yes some may be a slight % better focused, but all should be very close from photo to photo. Typically from what I have seen the camera will seem more blurry on the less light photos at what your aiming the lens at due to the camera not being able to focus as clearly on a less brighter image. But I can always go to longer timer setting and take side beamshots.
But that is why I took 2 more photos for you guys to see from what Bruce said the same thing as well as you.
I’ll mention in previous outings comparing the TK70 and the K40, the TK70 seems to come out on top at lighting things up better way off. You can go look at the 475yd photos and see that the T70 clearly won at that distance between the samples I showed here above.
I enjoyed doing this for you guys, and I do like all the great comments. I try to tell it like it is. But I will admit to you guys right now that the halogen spotlight photos I took using the same exact setting as all the other photos here, is slightly overexposed somewhat. I wanted to show the same settings and be fair to that light as the others. But what tends to happen and it could in fact happen somewhat on the K40 and TK70, is that when you get into a much brighter light, the camera has a tendency to overexpose it. Probably 1 sec or 0.8 sec would be better for it. But I wanted to be fair.
Thanks again guys for all the comments. The reward I get here is your thanks.