I saw the beamshots on Neals site and figured that’s what it used. Curious about their driver and the CCT/duv. Good new is with the fresnel, it’ll be collecting the lowest duv light into the beam. Not knowing the focal length of this optic makes it hard to estimate OTF lumens, but I’d ballpark it at 650 with intensity around 150kcd.
These have a high Vf and perform best with simple FET/linear drivers.
Another observation is the die seems significantly off center in the package.
If you could measure the focal length of this setup that would be appreciated, too.
It’s not unique to Fresnels. It’s due to the angular tint shift. 0⁰ off the perpendicular axis will be the bluest and/or pinkest emission. Beyond 40⁰ it gets very green typically. In a reflector, this is is the reason for piss green coronas.
I’m confused also. My sample (the gold ones) isn’t green and is 6100ºK at ~1200 lm. Would the white ones be warmer?
As for a comparison with a KW CULPM1.TG, the beam is similar as projection, similar temperature but the YD is more luminous (brighter) and this at about the same lumen levels. Having a larger die, the higher luminosity is expected. I can’t comment on throw as the CULPM is housed in a 26mm reflector vs. a 38mm C8 for the YinDing.
I ordered a few of these a while back, including a ‘cool white’ model on a 1mm mcpcb. I finally got them in today. I installed the cool/1mm mcpcb into a Jaxman Z1 with a copper pill from Hoop, which had been sitting idle waiting for a thin mcpcb/LED to achieve perfect focus… It is a super nice light now!
I finally received my “white” YD5050s – the original order was for 2 “golds” + 2 “whites” but they weren’t in the packet (?). Time to sort the shipping error – 31 days.
Tested in C8.2 (Manta Ray): 5650 CCT (warmer than the “golds”) and much green at low mode (~30 lumens). On higher levels quite nicer and at full throttle, a very acceptable beam. 65 CRI & +0.0086 Duv
Very much inner ring artifact. Similar to the “gold” ones that I attributed to the glass lens (after accidentally breaking off it tempered down). So I can’t explain this ‘ringing’. I swapped the SMO reflector for an OP and called it good ’nuff. Still has some residual blotching in its center. As though some residual flux or other detritus that refracts.
As for thrower, same beam profile as the “golds”. Very distinct hotspot and much spill. Just so unfortunate I can’t get them above 5 1/2 Amps draw. With such a high Vf the cell’s voltage drops. Pity as the host can take much more watts. And the 1200 to 1300 lumens output is underwhelming for the claimed values.
PS: Glad pscal posted. I had just about forgotten to give a follow-up. Oh well, 4 days late is better than never.
I looked at my order again and compared it to what I got.
Ordered: 1 ‘Natural White’ on 1mm MCPCB. Received “white looking” LED on 1mm MCPCB
Ordered: 1 ‘Natural White’ on 2mm MCPCB. Received “white looking” LED on 2mm MCPCB
Ordered: 2 ‘Natural White’ bare LEDs and 2 ‘Cold White’ bare LEDs. Received 4 ‘gold looking’ bare LEDs on the same roll.
I ordered 2 cold ones and 2 natural ones. Both types soldered on pcb. I received 1 bare golden, 1 golden soldered on square pcb and one Osram 2mm² 4040 bare.
YinDing created a problem with the wrong picture to the designated “cold white” & “warm white”. Someone in the front end was certainly made aware and is correcting the incoming orders – switching them. But this person is somewhat incompetent as they are also confusing the processing info.
In trying to correct my order, the CS person gave me the impression she was double-checking with the technician to which emitter and on which PCB. To her credit, she got it right (with much ado).
My take on small businesses: the front-end CS is the one that draws the product page and description. Some back-end person fills the order. I believe YinDing solders the LEDs on a piece level (ie as the orders come in). The manager knows of this but rather than correcting the product page, they muddle thru the orders till there is no more than 1 type.
The bond wires are different on this to the ones Tom E posted on the first page.
TUIG101 showed there are two bond wire configurations for the white version too, with the a difference in the way the LEDs performed.
(BTW, i have no idea what’s going on with the formatting, it looks like my reply is within the quote tags but it isn’t.)
Those are exactly the ones I’m talking about
Although, weirdly enough, when looking at the pictures the LEDs that are mounted on the stars look different compared to the “loose” one
From this thread we can see that some members have had better results with de-glassed Yinding’s? And yet you prefer glassed one better?
BTW… Glassed one is declared as Neutral White, and egg shelled version is declared as Cold White on aliexpress. Eg shell(Osram like compound stuff) looks better imho and wires are protected better but if glass one is better performer than there is no other choice but to take glass one
