Zebralight SC64 Anduril Edition

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
1

Album with all the pictures : https://imgur.com/a/ms56Zkc

I had this in mind since I started thinking about making my own drivers early last year, I actually assembled a driver for the SC64 last July but it didn't work properly, probably a mistake while building it since I’ve made other similar driver that worked, anyhow that was before Gchart implemented DAC control for the Attiny1616 so there was quite a lot of components on the tiny board, using the DAC instead of filtered PWM control reduces the amount components needed and simplifies a lot the layout, which is already quite constrained by the cutouts for the original components.

The first step was to take a good picture of the cutouts, trace them and import them to Kicad, then I could layout the components to match the cutouts.

Then a good while later (lot of procrastination...), assembly :

I forgot to take pictures but the thermal copper block is made of two part soldered together, the bigger visible part and a small one in the PCB cutout, I don’t have any milling machines so I couldn’t make it in one part.

Top components, with dedomed 519A sm453 :

Initially the AUX LED was only to be used with a TIR lens, but I couldn’t find a narrow angle lens that produced a nice beam, so I decided afterwards to go with a button LED and made this flex board to shine the LED towards the button boot, the original boot is opaque so I used a D4V2 white boot, it’s nearly the same size.

Assembled in the host, and ON at the lowest level :

Fully assembled :

(The switch retaining ring is not fully in, not because it doens’t fit fully but because I’ll need to remove it soon, it pretty hard to pop out)

Unfortunately only the top half of the boot is lit, I could have added an LED for the lower half on the back of the PCB but didn’t plan for it Initially.

Next to the SC64LE on min level , and tint comparison with LE and w HI on M1:

It’s kind of difficult to picture tints, it’s not as pink in reality, and the other two ones are a bit greener.

TM-30 reports, I’m using an AR coated lens from Kaidomain, it increases duv by ~0.0005~0.001, duv is quite low after the dedoming so it’s fine and I gain a few percent of light transmission :

4 Thanks
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Wow :open_mouth: :+1:

3

Thank you for making me extremely jealous.

4

Sounds like the perfect light. Very nice and nice clean work!

5

Epic. Can’t think of another word. You are a magician.

Suggestion for the switch LED: if you add a piece of dc-fix or if you sand the LED a bit, the light might get more diffused so a bigger portion of the switch could be lighted ?

EDIT: plus je regarde, plus je suis fasciné. Incroyable d’avoir réussi ce tour de force, il n’y a pratiquement pas de place dans une Zebra pour installer tout ça. Vraiment bravo, des mains d’artiste, une vision de génie.

6

These next level mods never fail to impress :smiley:

7

Wow this is beyond modding, this is like (extremely) low-volume manufacturing at this point. Awesome!

8

That is awesome!!

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I have that light, but not so much the talent. Impressive.
Any chance that will be obtainable for money in the future? Even better; Sell them to Zebralight and have them make and sell them complete. I’d buy one (or two).

10

Unreal, your skill and proficiency with modding is truly impressive my dude. Mad respect.

11

Wow! Your dedication to this hobby is on another level.

12

Wow :open_mouth: Zebralight SC64 (lost opportunity edition)

Jokes aside, all components harmonise with one another! I would pay money for this.

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Thanks a lot for the praise, it was a lot of work so I appreciate it greatly.

Thanks!

The PCB and switch are really blocking the lower part of the boot, I doubt it will have an effect.

Eh oui :smiley: , j’ai mis beacoup de temps pour placer les composants, et avec le driver précédent c’était vraiment ric-rac, probablement pour ça que ça a merdé quelque part.

14

Wonderful workmanship, another reason why BLF is fun to visit.

15

I am in awe. Amazing job. This is truly next level work.

You should sell the preassembled boards. :slight_smile:

One tip: before reassembling, use a hand file and grind a very small notch on the inside of the lens retaining ring. Just enough to get a knife blade or small screwdriver wedged under. That should make future disassembly for emitter swaps much easier.

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@firelight2, that might pose a bit of a problem currently :stuck_out_tongue:

There is a plan in the works, but it’ll take a long while.

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Thanks!

I did that on a H600II before, that works. But now I’m quite used to open these so I don’t really need it. Still, having to remove the lens and reflector to flash the MCU is a major downside of this host.

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What about drilling another hole for a single wire? Shouldn’t that be enough for flashing the MCU together with a probe for Vcc and GND via the normal battery contacts?

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Hmm, yes, maybe that’s possible, I’m guesstimating there is about 2mm between the positive contact PCB and the inner edge of the tube, so something like a 1.5~1.8mm hole could be drilled there and on the driver a solid wire with insulation soldered just in front of that hole, maybe chamfer the hole on the driver side because the driver needs to be a bit inclined when put in. Good idea SammysHP! I’ll take better measurements and modify the driver to add a pad on the back (might have to move a bunch of stuff).

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You are a wizard sir! Incredible work!