Thanks for the tip Tom. What grit do you start off with, 320? Do you use it dry or wet? All in all I think Dealmetic did a great job for the price!
All I wanted was to know the surface behind the LED, to know what I’d need to do.
Thanks Tom E, you made the difference.
Dealmetic take note. (Other readers here will no doubt correct/improve on my suggestions)
Dealmetic could sell hobbyists like us the flashlight body and a finished solid pill
— no LED, even no driver.
Spend that paying the person making the pills to clean up his own work,
or someone closer to your shop to take the pills and do the finishing as Tom E. describes.
Ask for details. People here really want you to succeed.
You’ll have an operation that could make the best available pills — even for other flashlights.
Get a thread gauge and the info needed: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gdvtw0pTAOs
“determine whether the thread is tapered or parallel … use a caliper to measure … the crest to crest diameter on the first, fourth, and last thread …. now use the caliper to measure the nominal thread diameter(s). The next step … determine the thread pitch … until you find a match … this may take a little time. The final step is to determine the thread standard. Take the information … and use a thread identification guide such as the SwageLock …”
Heck, sell us cheap thread gauges and ask us to contribute to a database — thread info for replacing pills, for various popular flashlights.
Provide pills to replace the bad ones that come on so many flashlights.
Very few makers/sellers so far have listened to us — you did. You can make it your specialty.
Yeah, once your machine guy’s doing finish work, someone will hire him away as a skilled worker.
But you can keep teaching new machine operators to do finish work, and still make money.
Don’t listen to me, I’m just some guy on the Internet.
But think about it.
Cnc has done away with a lot of skill hank 
Monkey can run a cnc, you don’t even have to know the M codes lol
Yeah, but the CNC doesn’t do the finish work
I know, we hobbyists expect to do the finish work.
But is it so impossible to do the last 10 percent of the work, that adds so much value?
— ream and smooth the ragged edges of the drilled holes,
— flatten the surface that ought to be flat (for contact with the flat LED base).
— Heck, drill and thread two more holes, to screw the emitter down tight.
Result, a brighter light that doesn’t overheat.
I know, I know, I sound like a Wobbly arguing that the workers need to teach the owners how to do it right and be proud of the product …
Well, the solid pill is progress, significant progress. And we know what it costs to get it.
And folks there learned who in their supply chain decides what’s not worth improving about the product.
They may be right. At least it’s being thought about.
I've had the owner of Warsun, Mr. Fang, tell me the gaping hole in the pill top of all Warsun's was fine - he said the engineers told him it was ok and has no effect on long term, regular usage. When they justify something like that, I'll find it hard to believe they would spend any extra time or effort on any other issues. You never know though -- I find it amazing/incredible Dealmetic listened to us on this pill. I've only seen pill tops this thick in uni-body style lights, or custom made copper pills. Definitely saves mod time and money.
cross-ref again, to Tom E.’s glowing review, sounds very good:
Why haven’t you bought one yet? 
Hi all Tom thanks for the great pics, I thought it was DD but wasn’t sure and lime l mentioed before it damn bright fort stock and has A LOT OF FLOOD nice neutral beam not so.e of the nasty cools blues often associated with these zoomie heck Iheck this one so much I gave my Sipik 96 away this thing buries all my other zoomies, I feel kinda of bad , after asking the vendor to update the emitter from t6 to xml2 and a from a hollow pill to a solid pill I assured him that his light would stand above the run of the mill zoomies, that he would sell more.well I can say it is a budget light with class ll anodizing and cheap switch and springs I mean for 7.99 it’s not a huge chunk of pocket change heck even I can afford and the light does preform. Anyhow thanks Tom for the pictures and input as my ability to lost pictures is non existent and again thanks Dealmetic for listening and working with us.
After I take a look on this 2000Lm-XML-Site I found THIS:
http://www.dealmetic.com/product.asp?ID=FL03659
*Panasonic NCR18650B WITH !!! : 4800mAh
HAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHHAAHAHAHA*
I HATE ADVERTISING AND WEBSITES LIKE THIS! |( |( |(
I’ll never buy from such a bullsh… site
Well that eliminates every budget China/HK dealer, every budget light - this is, after all, the Budget Light Forum... 
You have to sift threw the garbage to find a gem... That's part of the fun.
Any idea how to track orders?tia
> Why haven’t you bought one yet?
Do you work there?
I’ve been waiting for an update of my order dated 8/16/2014 10:03:25 AM
EDIT: and the mail carrier just delivered it today.
I am impressed. Assuming these hold up in regular use for a while, this is one I’d give to anyone I trusted with lithium-ion batteries.
A couple of first-minutes thoughts for the people who made this, since you listen (!), in hope they’re useful:
Driver (and tailswitch)
If you do a similar light that works with single alkaline AA/NiMH rechargeable, you’ll have a perfect gift light (for those I would not trust with lithium-ion batteries).
No-mode memory: that means the tail switch will get a lot of exercise — I’ve worn tail switches out on other no-mode lights in daily use
Clicking adds up, compared to “last-mode-memory” lights that come back on where they were set last time. That’s a big wish item you’ll hear often.
(I’d bet there are people here who can point you to a driver you could use in the lights you make, or a design for one, that you could adopt that would get great praise for routine use by typical customers — “last mode memory” and some
It comes on high, which does warm up noticeably quite fast (and is very bright); again, lots of clicks every time it’s used to get the right setting.
Tailcap could be improved:
the lanyard hole drilled in the tailcap is centered in one of the two high parts — so any string or split ring will interfere with tailstanding.
The hole could be drilled next to one of the cutouts — so a string or split ring would rotate into that cutout when the light is stood up on its tailpiece.
(The green button cover is a little higher than the tailcap sides, and the high parts are nicely polished to the point of being a bit rounded rocking-chair like — so it’s already a bit wobbly when tailstanding, but doesn’t fall over, just wobbled a bit when the table gets a little bump.)
Folks who designed and built and improved on this one — congratulations.
This forum should come up with an annual voted award for best listening/most responsive designer/builder/supplier — and give some folks at your place credit and award the first one.
Now — having had it in my hands — would you offer us some of these flashlight bodies without LEDs, and without drivers?
Not in quantities, not for resale, but a few at a time to a few people here who’d like to try out different LEDs and different drivers?
Or even — simpler — sell a few of us some of the aluminum pills you’ve made, so we can put different LEDs and drivers in, and try them in these lights.
Because you’ve managed — I think — to handle the heat transfer well enough to make this an interesting light to modify.
(sure got that pill stuck in there good and tight! I guess I’ll wait a bit before trying any harder to get it out, use the light a while first in stock form)
EDIT:
And here’s the spectrum of the emitter in this light: SpectralWorkbench
(that’s with the $40 USB kit spectrometer, links on that page)
hank - certainly seems like one of the best budget deals around. Not $20 or $30 - $8! Surprised more guys aren't all over this. The tail cap is a PIA, but once you wire the tail spring, it gets brighter still,and of course hotter. zoomies are a special breed - not everyone likes them.
while back everyone wanted a East-092 DD, and this light has it. There were guys willing to pay $8 for the DD driver alone.
so-o-o … how does the pill come out? It’s in there real tight, twisting with needle nose pliers isn’t budging it.
What diameter driver will I be wanting? oh, wait, already stated above — 16mm with pics and much more info, thanks Tom E.
Like this light have either you TomE or Hank been intouch Dealmetic?They contacted me and ask if I would do a formal review for me, well since I cant do it maybe one of you two?I bring it up because if tney are willing to listenin to our requests on this model maybe tney ll be more willing to with other models and heck in 8.00$ including shipping with DD?
I still haven’t gotten the pill out; Tom E. has already done much more.
Anything I write here they’re welcome to quote, but I’m not apt to do a formal review.
My review would amount to: “I got the pill out, removed the emitter and driver, put in (some neutral/high CRI emitter) and (a moon/low/med/high memory driver) and ….”
(EDIT, and maybe resell the driver if people still want those)
If they’ll sell us bare pills (maybe along with the cheap old version of the light, so we could mod it up), or sell us hosts without emitter and driver — yesyes, I’d do a review of those.
But (grin) nobody would need a review of that kind of choice, we’d be all over it.
Yeah I suck I don’t even know how to post pictures so your ahead of me I wish I could do it they would have sent me a free light now I have to buy another one after bring out the emitter
to see how it’s done: use Firefox, go to Tom E’s post with pictures, hilightt a bunch of those and the text between them, then
— right click
— View selection source
you’ll see he has the pictures stored at one of the free photo sites (not at budgetlightforum) and all that’s in the source here is the URL and code for pulling the pictures in.
Here’s one. If you ‘view selection source’ on this line you’ll see I put that in between HTML (angle-bracketed) “code” and “/code” to force it to be visible:
Note he makes them fairly small so they fit the pages here.
Yes, I use 800x600 or 1024x768. I got a pana lumix camera, a little dated now. i'm on vaca now, not sure if dealmetic contacted me. Got a bunch of pm's not checked.
i got a paid acct with photobucket now - too many hits on pics to keep the free one. Probably better free options out there.