Pro:
compact, good beam, mine can be locked out, heat sinking is fine (LED mounted directly on the head).
Contra:
Terrible UI: A tap on the switch goes to high mode, further taps switch to next mode,
Off -> High -> Medium -> Low -> Strobe -> SOS -> Off -> High -> …
So if you want to switch it off from high, you need to go through all the other modes. No memory etc.
Driver: Direct drive with 0.25 Ohms in series to reduce current.
Modding: switch is directly mounted onto the driver board, making a driver swap difficult. However, there’s enough space to easily add a NANJG105C between original driver and LED. LED MCPCB is 24.5mm.
Edit: added a photo. I removed all components from the original driver (except the switch) and connected Batt+. Batt- and the switch to a NANJG105C with suitable firmware.
Hmm, if you think of it as a twisty plus a mode button it sounds better, you’re right. How about long press, double tap etc? Could it have anything hidden there?
Thanks alot for sharing your impressions!
I was tempted to get one and put the “lumodrv-105C” in it, wich I got from you (thanks again!) ever since I first saw it.
Is there enough space in it that a 105c could be added to the existing board?
( I am sure you already checked that )
Where did you got yours from, because there are different pictures regarding the anodized tail-threads online?
(Manafont’s pictures: anodised threads on the body tube VS. no anodisation on the body-tube everywhere else, but possibly in the tail-cap)
After initial disappointment I just left the light alone… But your question made me actually check it:
The driver is 21mm and there is sufficient space in the head for a NANJG105C.
I’ll remove the driver components (except the switch of course) and use it as contact plate and switch holder for the NANJG with lumodrv. I hope it really is as easy as it seems to be right now…
The LED is on a 24.5mm MCPCboard btw… Maybe I’ll reflow an XM-L2 onto it.
What was the reason for you disappointment?
Does yours have anodised male threads at the tail?
How is the beam compared to a small xml-light of the “uf-2100-class”?
edit: how is the heat transfer aka pill-construction?
I first thought that there wasn’t enough space for a NANJG105C since I didn’t check the diameter.
Mine has anodized threads at the tail, can be locked out.
Citing myself: “heat sinking is fine (LED mounted directly on the head).”, i.e. no pill.
Did it. Removed all components from the old driver (except the switch) and added a NANJG105C between old driver and LED. The head has enough space. I finally have a light with lumodrv
So that’s what he meant by “appropriate” driver, i.e., the driver has to be able to detect the clicks and then turn on the light, at the appropriate output, etc.?
So this light couldn’t be true DD (i.e., without no driver, and battery wired directly to the emitter(s))?
)