Modding a Judco Switch

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Old-Lumens
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Modding a Judco Switch

I like to use Judco Pushbutton switches when I can. The reason is because they make switches that take up to 10 amps and they are affordable. One other reason is because the contacts are copper instead of plated tin.

 

jud1

 Here is the switch opened up. You can see the copper contacts and horn.

 

 

 

judco2

 Here are the components.

 

 

 

jud3

The only problem sometimes, is the offset position of the push button. I would rather it was centered in the body, or if the body was square somehow.....

 

 

 

 jud4

Solution: Use a hacksaw to cut off the extension of the housing just past where the pins are, that hold the housing together. This leaves us with a more centered pushbutton.

 

 

 

jud5

Here, I am putting it back together. I have put the housing in the vise, so it is flush. That way, when I put in the contacts, they stay in place while I get the horn in.

 

 

 

jud6

Now I have a 13mm x 13mm square Judco switch and with a little rounding of the corners, it will fit in a half inch copper coupling, for an upcoming project. I will use AA or epoxy, to seal the end where I cut off. That way it strengthens the contacts where they extend out.

 

I did this post at work, so I can't even see the photos myself. I hope it comes out ok, or I will have to fix it at home tonight.

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scaru
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Yep, the pictures are all there. Smile Nice work on the mod, those switches look really nice. 

DB Custom
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Nice work there, Thanks Justin for the info and pictoral on how to make it work. Now if I can only remember this after I sleep tonight….

Rufusbduck
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I think I see where this is going but I won’t spill the beans.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Thanks OL for the info with great pics. I do use the judco switch occasionally. I had no idea that they would come apart without destroying them. I like the idea of making it shorter too. I have one that’s faulty, I may just try fixing it.

Old-Lumens
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Rufusbduck wrote:
I think I see where this is going but I won't spill the beans.
Nope, it's not going there, LOL.

Three x 2AA Mini-Mags together, (possibly), with a copper pipe center that holds the switch and may hold the driver wiring for Master/slave. It's just an idea now, but I do have the lights sitting on the bench.Wink

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texaspyro
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Old-Lumens wrote:
I did this post at work, so I can’t even see the photos myself. I hope it comes out ok

Uhhh Justin, you posted a bunch of pics of you nekid in the shower… they did come out OK.

DB Custom
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ROFLMAO

Going it blind are ya Justin? Smile

Old-Lumens
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texaspyro wrote:
Old-Lumens wrote:
I did this post at work, so I can't even see the photos myself. I hope it comes out ok
Uhhh Justin, you posted a bunch of pics of you nekid in the shower... they did come out OK.
I know that's not true or there would have been a Lot more laughing.Tongue Out

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Rufusbduck
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I need a new belt. I bit through my old one trying to keep the noise down. Lol.

Nice pics of the mod too. They show how much of that housing is surplus and what you need to keep to have the pins reengage.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Can you fit one of these into an L2P or similar without too much hassle? They look good..

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Sure, JB Weld Stick does a fine job of fixing things! Wink No messy mixing and minimum wait times.

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Is it possible to assemble the light with a terminal coming out either side?

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

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Rufusbduck
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MRsDNF wrote:

Is it possible to assemble the light with a terminal coming out either side?

Some Judco switches have notches in unused locations that would allow reversing one of the tabs if that’s what you mean. I wonder if it’s possible to drill a hole in the bottom of the case to make it into a tail cap switch by adding a spring

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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I would say no to both questions. The copper contacts are notched and the pins do not match from one end to the other. Also, since the spring for the clicky extends into the bottom half, it would not work if the bottom were open.

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Old-Lumens wrote:
I would say no to both questions. The copper contacts are notched and the pins do not match from one end to the other. Also, since the spring for the clicky extends into the bottom half, it would not work if the bottom were open.

I'm not sure why this cant be done unless I'm missing something. In the first picture if the top terminal strip/contact is rotated 180 degrees so that it could be used as a normal switch in a tailcap. The side of the plastic, can it be cut out to accommodate the strip coming out the opposite side?

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Old-Lumens
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MRsDNF wrote:

Old-Lumens wrote:
I would say no to both questions. The copper contacts are notched and the pins do not match from one end to the other. Also, since the spring for the clicky extends into the bottom half, it would not work if the bottom were open.

I'm not sure why this cant be done unless I'm missing something. In the first picture if the top terminal strip/contact is rotated 180 degrees so that it could be used as a normal switch in a tailcap. The side of the plastic, can it be cut out to accommodate the strip coming out the opposite side?

vgguk

Notice the pins in the left side of the picture. They are close together where the contacts are. Notice the pins on the right side of the picture. The pins are farther apart. The left side shows the contacts are cut out to fit within the pins. The other ends do not. If one contact faced the other way, it would not be aligned, because the pins are farther apart and the contact would not be held in place well. It would not be kept from shifting sideways and it would not make correct contact with the center horn.

 

EDIT: You could make new copper contacts and that should work properly.

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Rufusbduck
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Would you like one to try it out on?

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

Old-Lumens
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MRsDNF, would you like me to make you a modified Judco switch that will work like a Chinese Tail Clicky, complete with the reversed contact and a spring base?

I just figured out how to do it.Wink

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MRsDNF
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Ok. Thanks OL.

Who you talking about Willis, Sorry Rufusbduck?

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Old-Lumens
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MRsDNF wrote:

Ok. Thanks OL.

Who you talking about Willis, Sorry Rufusbduck?

I will post the mod here and send you the result.

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Rufusbduck
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I thought you might use a switch like that as a tail clicky in the copper tube.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Rufusbduck wrote:
I thought you might use a switch like that as a tail clicky in the copper tube.
I am using one in the copper tube as a tail clicky, just not with a spring, but direct wired.

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Rufusbduck
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Doh! No battery, no spring.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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I think you did great on modifying it. Now I believe you are more proud of your Judco Pushbutton switch. H)

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I think this conversation is getting like one of those phone calls with a 3 second delay. Everyone talks on top of each other and no one has a clue whats being said.Wink

Thanks OL I would love you to make the said switch with idiot instructions just for me. Can you please include a link to the switch to save me searching for the link you sent me last time. Cheers, confused idiot (me).Smile

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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Hey O-L, I just want to say that you’re also doing a great job with the photography. Really helps folks like myself to be able to clearly see what is being described. Like a roadmap to DIY, Smile

Thanks for going to the extra trouble with photographic documentation, it’s really appreciated!

Old-Lumens
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Originally a 10 amp Judco switch.

 

dnf1

I made two new contact strips out of copper sheet. They still need tro be trimmed a little.

 

dnf2

Bottom contact for a spring

 

dnf3

Side contact

 

dnf4

Epoxy to seal the end

 

Tested with a meter. Works...

 

Will that work for you MRsDNF?

 

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Thank you very much sir. Your copper for the tabs, would that be about 20 thou in thickness?

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Old-Lumens
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MRsDNF wrote:

Thank you very much sir. Your copper for the tabs, would that be about 20 thou in thickness?

Stock was .014". I only had .012"

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