Fenix TK61 teardown and mod thread

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RMM
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dazed1 wrote:
So with the parts swapped, 5.5/6A should not be a problem right?

It hasn't been so far.  That doesn't give a 100% guarantee down the road, but I feel pretty confident in it now after some fairly significant testing.

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dazed1
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Oh i’m pretty sure it will be fine Big Smile

I never run more then 1/2 mins on turbo – outdoors Smile

Thank so much guys for sharing this great info!

Fenix TK61 MOD> resistor, transistors, copper heatsink, Artic Cooling MX4, dedome, 3A > 5.7A ~ 1700 lumens > (600.000cd)

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Bah...nevermind.  Just realised that RaceR already tried the same basic thing in post #88.  Guess it's time to order up some of the smaller ones from mouser.  Embarassed

Hey guys, I don't have any of the tiny mosfets but could you use this voltage regulator instead of the stacked minis?

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062599

I actually have a few of these in the basement and if they will work it'd be great.  They also have the added benefit of being able to shed more heat.

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Hi guys, can anyone tell me exactly what transistors and resistors should be swap?

i got the same transistors which vinhn used for his TK61.

Fenix TK61 MOD> resistor, transistors, copper heatsink, Artic Cooling MX4, dedome, 3A > 5.7A ~ 1700 lumens > (600.000cd)

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How do you guys solder these resistors on? I was told at the local electronic store if I use a soldering iron it will fry the resistor. They said I need some kind of special heat gun?

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jcminar wrote:
How do you guys solder these resistors on? I was told at the local electronic store if I use a soldering iron it will fry the resistor. They said I need some kind of special heat gun?

Welcome to the twilight zone. Its called a hot air rework station I believe. But its not required. The guys (and gals) here have been doing it with soldering irons for ages. They do so daily. They dont just solder them on to new boards, they stack them.

Maybe someone should tell them they cant do it.

A youtube clip from this thread… http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19207
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=214kSNaBD3A

RMM
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Lol of course you can hand solder the resistors.  The same temperature is needed using hot air to melt the solder as is needed from the tip of your iron, the only difference is the source of the heat.

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Well I guess with a steady enough hand I could do it maybe after a beer it would be easier. One more quick question. I am planning on doing the tk61 resistor mod with the R030 resistor but can’t seem to find any that look like the picture. Is that 30ohms or 30mohms?

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Well, I’m an idiot just figured out its .030 ohms right?

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Welcome to the forum jcminar.  You're correct, .03 ohms.  The "R" is the equivalent of a decimal point.

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Where can I find these .030 ohm resistors what’s the watt on these things people keep asking me. And would a .028 or .033 be ok?

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There are a few options on these, so it can get a bit complicated to those of us that aren’t into electronics. The package size is important, it determines how long and wide the resistor is. I once ordered some that were backwards, wide instead of long. It was relatively easy to make it work but it covered the entire stack of 3 normal resistors to do so.

I still haven’t figured out how important the wattage rating is, I usually go for the higher rating but don’t know if it’s necessary.

.028 or .033 should be fine, very close to the .030 you’re looking at and as such would make a very small difference, probably only measurable and not noticeable to the eye.

I intend to try an R025.

I used an online resistor calculator to figure out the end resistance when stacking…the 2 R050 give a net of .25, with an R030 on top of 2 R050 the net result is 13.63636364, with an R025 instead, it would be 12.5. By going with 2 R030’s the net went down to 9.375 and if 2 R025’s were used it would be 8.33. So I’m thinking it should handle the R025 ok, but not 2 of em.

My primary reason for using the R025 is because I already have some. Should know how it works in the next hour or so, as my light is due in today.

DigiKey or Mouser are likely places here in the states.

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I kinda figured the difference in ohms would be ok and since wattage doesn’t really matter I guess now all I need to do is find a place that sells them. Thanks for all the help.

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The have a standard USPS rate of $5 or so shipping, so if you’re only getting a few resistors for pennies, the shipping is steep. Check to see if there’s other stuff you need, maybe some emitters, to offset the costs.

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Vinhd send me some R050’s and transistors, my friend will do the mod for me in few days, i will report back how much amps to the led, and how are the heatsinking-output figures.

Fenix TK61 MOD> resistor, transistors, copper heatsink, Artic Cooling MX4, dedome, 3A > 5.7A ~ 1700 lumens > (600.000cd)

ImA4Wheelr
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3 of these parallel will equal about .033 ohms.  1206 size resistors are typically 1/4 watt rated. 

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I stopped in at my local electronics store and all they had were .05ohm resistors with the numbers 000 if I put this on will it damage the light or not do anything at all?

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000 is not a resistor, it is a “jumper”, you would get same results if you put just regular wire across the pads where you thought to solder 000.
If you want 0.05 ohms resistor then you need to find the one marked with R05.

 

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Try to buy one with matching size to what you’re stacking on to make soldering neater. The one you linked is 3.2×1.6mm. I’m not sure what you already have.

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Where the heck can I find one of these things? I’ve been all over the internet and forums and can’t seem to find any information anywhere…

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jcminar, since you posted here. Ill just answer here instead of PM.  Sorry to hear about that your meter slipped and caused the blowout.

The last guy who had issues with the C012C I guided to RMM/Mountain Electronics LLC. Not sure what resulted it.

In total I know of two people who have fried the C012C. Im guessing the other guys had some sort of slip up too. 

Dale also had issues, but did not break anything.

Im just putting the info here as a warning. Be careful, and don't risk modding something you don't have a backup solution for.

I know many have had great success. For some reason this mod have gained some popularity, and seems to have attracted several who wants to mod their 100$+ light without much mod experience (Ive gotten PM`s from several people Ive never heard of).

Ive been thinking of making a thread on the TK75, with some pictures and various test results from modding. But im not sure how wise that is anymore. I know many people have gotten great help from this thread, but a few have had issues.

I might have a TK61 driver for sale in the future in case someone is in need of one. My replacement option for the stock driver have been heavily delayed, so I will keep my modified TK61 driver for now. RMM might have a high current driver replacement option in the future too?? Probably before mine is modded for stage "2", or stage "3"...

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Sounds like its got a STAR firmware.

RMM, is there is connection between what you and vinh are doing?

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The transistor mod took about 5 minutes worked great slipped on my meter and hit the wrong contact while checking current. Anyways, ordered some replacement transistors should have it up and running in a few days. I’m still a little puzzled as to why this transistor blew. I know I must have moved the probs on the dmm accidently and shorted but why would that burn up a resistor? I didn’t think the meter put out any power? Btw the light still worked but only on low mode with that transistor blown.

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RaceR86 wrote:

Sounds like its got a STAR firmware.

RMM, is there is connection between what you and vinh are doing?

Sounds exactly like its got Werners UI, I use it on tons of lights, its free/open source FW so I doubt there is any connection…

Edit: an easy way to tell would be to ask him if its truly regated, the BLF drivers arnt regulated, I’m guessing he’s running a BLF XXdd driver in them with Werners UI, what gives it away is both buttons doing the same thing and the UI.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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Yupp. Werners UI.  STAR momentary, or whatever the latest tweak of Werners UI is called.

Vinh cant be using a BLF DD driver. That wont give 8A.

For most people having 5,8A regulated all day long from a buck driver and using normal cells is way better than getting 6A+ for a short amount of time with output dropping constantly from some "low capacity" high discharge cells in combination BLF DD type driver.

I believe RMM had a setup with some knuckleheads drivers in works and testing?? (Maybe thats wrong) He was working on a 8A TK61. He usually sells STAR momentary. So that`s why Im asking if there is a connection. If so, RMM can give us some details.

My plan have always been the HX-1175B since Im familiar with it and knows its good for whatever amps I want it to output. But Ive had really bad luck acquiring it.

Some months ago I ordered another Lustefire 3XU2 from WB Aliexpress. But they were sold out, so I was not able to get another driver from one.

My second attempt was buying them from an Aliexpress seller. I got the wrong ones. HX-1175C.

My third attempt ended up in a tracking number not working. Ordered 50 days ago. I have just had it reshipped. So, all good things are 4??

Thread about HX-1175B here.

Here you can see what HX-1175B can do in a ZY-T08 when its down adjusted to 6,5A.

Its nice to see people are planning different approaches. Im just curious if vinh and RMM are doing the same and have been working together.


About TK75, I might get back to making a thread about it some time in the (distant) future...

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RaceR86 wrote:
Vinh cant be using a BLF DD driver. That wont give 8A…

The driver’s not the limiting factor its the dedomed XM-L2, I have several and I’ve built quite a few more lights with a BLF17 and 20 dd’s that do well over 8A with other emitters (MT’s @ 8.4v, SST-90’s, multiple parallel XP-G2 & XM-L2 setups), my EDC runs at 8.4A and will do 13+ off a 25R (but the triple XP-G2 doesnt like that very much lol, anyway point being the BLF drivers can do well over 8A).

If he found a better way to keep it cool than a noctigon/sinkpad (like when people etch / mill a flat piece of copper down) I’m certain the BLFxxDD would be more than capable for the light.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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Cereal_killer wrote:
RaceR86 wrote:
Vinh cant be using a BLF DD driver. That wont give 8A...
The driver's not the limiting factor its the dedomed XM-L2, I have several and I've built quite a few more lights with a BLF17 and 20 dd's that do well over 8A with other emitters (MT's @ 8.4v, SST-90's, multiple parallel XP-G2 & XM-L2 setups), my EDC runs at 8.4A and will do 13+ off a 25R (but the triple XP-G2 doesnt like that very much lol, anyway point being the BLF drivers can do well over 8A). If he found a better way to keep it cool than a noctigon/sinkpad (like when people etch / mill a flat piece of copper down) I'm certain the BLFxxDD would be more than capable for the light.

You said it. With other emitters... You can get a BLF DD to supply 20A++ with the right emitters/battery combo, its irrelevant. But this is a TK61 thread. It uses an XM-L2. Vinh`s light uses an XM-L2. At 8A, 4,2V is required to the emitter. A BLF xxDD wont get near 8A peak even with freshly charged cells due to the voltage requirement.

Personally id rather have around 4,7A regulated with the stock UI (or 5,75A), than peak at 6A+ and output that will drop well below 4,7A in time (with BLF xxDD). No doubt that the BLF xxDD is capable, but I dont see it as an optimal solution for a TK61. Unless you want it to throw or have a pencil beam with other emitters.

Around 8A regulated to a single XM-L2, that is where the magic is IMO. I don't see how you can get close to that with a BLF xxDD driver.

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RaceR86 wrote:
At 8A, 4,2V is required to the emitter. A BLF xxDD wont get near 8A peak even with freshly charged cells due to the voltage requirement.

But that's because even the best cell soldered direct to an XML2 with no driver or switch or springs won't be able to supply 8A with zero voltage sag.

The Vishay 70N02 FET is around only 4 milliohms, so the driver isn't what keeps them from being able to do those kind of numbers.

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comfychair wrote:

But that's because even the best cell soldered direct to an XML2 with no driver or switch or springs won't be able to supply 8A with zero voltage sag.

Exactly!

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